Tim240z

Yasin, How load/quiet is the pump? Can you hear it running? Is it obnoxious, or just a low hum? I have the MSD pump for my LT1, but it is pretty loud, even with a bunch of isolation mounts. Tim

It adds 1 inch to the column. Tim

No sweat man....you can buy me a beer one day....I like St. Pauli Girl Tim

Danno...the exhaust HAS to be tucked up directly under the starter. From what I can tell from that little picture, it actually runs under and a bit next to the starter....a big no go from my viewpoint! Tim

Oh my god.....I am rolling in fits of laughter!!! The image I have of someone jumping around like a mad man, with "Mr Friendly" flapping away...ha ha ha I kill me!!! That is funny....

At first glance it looks like it will be too wide and hit the frame rail where it meets the firewall at the bottom. Tim

He has done all the calculations (moment of bending etc etc etc...). IF you really want them, I can ask him to mail me them to me. Keep in mind, this is not the first time he has made custome suspension pieces.....he has made stuff for various race teams in various types of racing.

Wow man, with that much welding, don't you ever use a leather apron. or half jacket?

Any links guys? John, good source for those Konis?

Jeff, I cannot really give you any comparison between the bushings and the rod ends, but I would imagine that the bushings would afford less harshness than the rod ends. #1: these are sliders to improve stability and reinforce the adjusting sleeves (somewhat overkill, but overkill is good 8) ). Loosen to adjust camber. #2: Camber adjusting sleeves. The control arms will arrive at OEM length (camber adjustment). Safe adjustment is 3/4inch out (neg), and 1/2 in (positive camber). That should satisfy everyone! #3:Machined bushings for spindle pin. #4: Offset bushings (delron). #5: (which I forgot to lable, but you can see the line) Sway Bar mount. OEM location Let me know if you have any other questions. These units weight 2.5 lbs more than the OEM control arms. They can be made lighter, but it starts adding to the material costs, since the thinner wall Chromoly is not 'standard spec' and has to be special ordered and is more than triple the cost. All the welding during the construction process is done clamped in a jig, so no pulling or warping occurs, everything is to exacting tolerances! The attachment 'rings' for the spindle pins are align bored and assemble perfectly!! These are very well made units, and I believe that the cost is a reflection of that. I have not put much mileage on mine yet, so I can't really give too much info there, but from what i have driven they do not seem at all harsh. Tim

You mean like this:

Jared....justy keep in mind my statement that he has not yet fixed a price. I will contact him to find out. Tim

Well done, Guy!! I know from personal experience the level of effort it takes to make headers! Good job. Tim

They are available. As is, or he is also going to make them with rod ends which will reduce the machining time drastically. He has a lot of time and $$ in the R&D for the first set (which I am currently testing). Price is very vague right now, but I'm sure that if a half a dozen folks get together a group buy thet price will be adjusted appropriately. At this point the price point is $500 to $600 per pair. That includes machined inner bushings (and outer ones in cases where rod ends are not used). These control arms are fully adjustable (camber and toe) on the car with no disassembly required (unlike the Arizona Z car ones, which require removal at the outer side to set camber). If those interested are willing to put down a 50% non-refundable deposit (to cover material costs), I will contact my machinist and ask for a discounted 'group' price. Paypal payments will need to go through me (he is old school, and until I can convince him to set up an account, I'm it), or cheques can be made out to Honeybee Engines. Tim

Hmmmm, Drax...I hear Darwin calling Tim

NO!!! not the whole body, just the rust spots!! You only want to rough it up that much in places where filler will be applied. Tim

8) That is just plain insanely cool!!!

eehhh...once you've seen one in person, pictures are bland...they just cannot do that car justice..... Tim

I just bought a unit from ebay, and just received it. It is VERY VERY nice. Tolerances are close and tight but not enough to make it hang. Maching quality is great, the seller sent it very fast. Worth the $$$. http://www.goingsuperfast.com/ Tim

Unless your firewall is truly a mess, then I definitely not go that far.

The only thing that is keeping from even considering the LS1 at this point is the price of the software to edit the PCM. On the other hand, it is absolutely not uncommon for a LT1 to go 200,000 mikes with no Opti problems. A crap shoot I suppose. Tim

WOW, John!! I always knew you acted your age I bet you got jacked on gifts Birthday bash for John!!...who's bringing the strippers!!!! Tim

I did all the holes in my entire engine bay. Lots of work. For the larger firewall holes (heater hose, AC lines etc), I welded a patch of sheetmetal in. Placed the piece on the cabin side and welded it in, then gave it a couple of tack welds in the engine bay. Then smoothed with the grinder and filled with fiberglass reinforced filler, sanded smooth, then finished with plastic filler. Be sure the sheetmetal around the hole is straight. Depending on how the PO cut the holes, they may be very wavy. Use a hammer and dolly to get it straight. Tim

At least about 190lbs when the driver is sitting in the car!!