Tim240z

Haven't seen your 'other post', but you need to find out what your fuel pressure is. Could be that the pressure is overpowering the needle and seat in the carbs. Need more info on your setup. Tim

HA HA ROTFLMAO!!!!

Billy,I pulled a 200 4R from a Buick regal in the JY and the bolt pattern works on the SBC. Ratios are: 2.74, 1.57, 1.00, 0.674 700R4 ratios are:3.06, 1.63, 1.00, 0.70 Tim

Your images will need to posted on the web somewhere. If you need a place, go to http://www.imagestation.com and sign up and post your pics there. Then in your post, put the pic's address (right click on the pic, select properties, then copy the url in the properties screen) between the image tags . You can also post to your own album here on Hybrid, but you may have to shrink them in size significantly. Tim

Yes, as said above, the JTR kit will not help you. You will have to make your own mounts. There is a huge amount of info about the LS1 conversion on this site, do a search and you will find that most, if not all, of your questions will be answered. Tim

I second that, Dave!! Your's is, by far, the sweetest ZX I've ever seen...and it has 8 cylinders to boot!! Tim

Al, Can you please PM me your paypal address and physical address! I have $$$ from members here that need to go to you. Don't make me have to send everyone their money back! Tim

I would imagine that when running huge boost, and have to run huge injectors, you could do so without losing low end driveability. One set would operate at low boost (low rpm) times, then the second set would come on as the first set get past their operating limit. Tim

Mark, Have you done anything to the engine, or is it bone stock. Those are some pretty nice numbers! Tim

Mike Kelly = Mikelly. Tim

Before you start tearing into the intake, you should get the car running right. You are adding in a whole host of new variables that could cause you headaches by doing that. Get the thing running right, then tear it apart. Just my 2c. Tim

That's enough to convince me! I am picking up the suspension parts tomorrow to take to my machinist. Should have something in a couple of weeks. Thanks for the advise BTW, John. Tim

Fuel Injection

SCHWEEET!!!

I used aerosol hammerite (smooth finish) on my strut tubes. I used the brush on stuff for my control arms and front X-member (to make it thicker). Goes on real nice and dries smooth and shiny, and 'hammer tough' Tim

Aluminum has a much greater heat transfer efficiency than copper, or brass, or steel. Thus the efficiency affords the ability to use a smaller radiator and keep the cooling effect the same. Tim

Scoggin Dickey is have specials on crate motor shipping!!! Tim

Excellent point. That's exactly why I use the cheapy HF gun for primer. I will use the DeVillbis for color and clear. The pros actually use a different gun for each color, and one for clears.....and their guns cost in the $500+ range Tim

My gun (above) is HVLP, and uses only 10psi at the gun. The older High pressure guns use a bit more pressure. The gravity feed guns seem to need much less pressure. Maybe RacerX will chime in. I do not have a large compressor, but at such low pressure it keeps up just fine. Tim

This is the blue Z with the white stripe and flares and big @ss spoiler and G-nose? Tim

Yeah....I've seen those before...just can't remember where Tim

I'll try to explain: The cable mount on the inside of the pedal right..hooks in from the front, opposite side of the pedal arm to the firewall. So take off the cable from the pedal, put a spring over the cable, then a washer (cut a slot in it) over the cable so that you could hold the bottom of the spring, and the 'top' of the spring (and washer) would be up against the end of the cable (where the mounting ball is) Now place similar washer on the 'bottom' of the spring, and replace the cable, with the spring on the driver's seat side of the pedal. Now the spring, remember, is weaker than the main spring at the TB. So when pressing on the pedal, both the spring compresses and the cable pulls, but the compression of the spring is 'using up' some of the pedal travel that would usually go directly to the cable. If the length of the spring is correct, then the spring would be fully compressed at 1/2 throttle, at which point it would be a 1:1 ratio again. This is purely theoretical, and will take some experimentation with different springs, but it is acheap enough effort that it may be worth while. Tim

You definitely did things right! I can only assume that that caliper had 'issues' prior to the bake. Tim

Well, that's easy then: Just find spring that is the right tension, and place it between the pedal and the cable (so that it compresses when you push the pedal). That way, with the spring slightly weaker than the spring on the TB side, when you push the pedal, some of the pedal movement will be compressing the spring, some will be pulling the cable. Depending on the length and stregth of the spring, will determine when the spring is totally collapsed and normal (to WOT) pedal travel will occur. Tim

I've seen linkages with a cam type 'wheel'. Don't remember where or when, but have a walk around a JY and look at some different vehicles. When you find one, pull it off and adapt it, or just take your one, cut it and weld it back together with an offset (so that the mount to the TB is no longer in the center). You will have to just tack it in place until you find just the right offset, breaking the welds if it isn't what you want. Tim