Tim240z

I did post an offer to have my full length headers copied when I took them in for coating at Rewarder Headers, but it was going to be quite pricey....about $700 for the initial setup fee, then about $350 per set. So to make up for the initial cost, the headers would have to sell for about $400 per set. That's quite a bit of $$$ for us cheap ass Z guys. Well, that's OK with me....at least my exhaust system will be completely unique! It took a lot of work to build those damn headers....they better never rust or get broken!! What you could always do, is get a set of uncoated headers, and buy a 'D' port pair of flanges, cut off the round flanges from the header, weld on the 'D' flanges and have them coated. A little more work, and a little more expense, but it will be 'done right'! Tim

The coating definitely keeps the heat way down. The header wrap will eventally make your headers rot, and is not recommended at all. Go with the coated headers, you won't regret it!! Tim

They are illegal in CA. Enforcement is spotty though...kinda depends on the cop, I suppose. I believe that the law states that the plate has to be visible form 50 feet away, at night. http://www.calpl8s.com/pl84m/bbs.cgi?message=768&page=1 Tim

I have one if you need one. Tim

I remember seeing something like that in one of my catalogues at home....maybe port city racing? I'll look tonight. Tim

I defintely agree with you on #1!!! Tim

just don't buy anything from showcars. Tim

Hmmmm.. HybridZ needs an emoticon with the middle finger...ha ha ha Tim

Carb is less complicated and cheaper. Fi makes the driveability generally better. Price is an open ended question. You will need to be very specific with the intent and extent of the conversion. If you have the car already and it's in no need of major work (body/electrical/interior/brakes), then you are looking at anything from $3500 (if you bargain hunt very judiciously), to $10,000 plus. You need to make a very specific plan, as these projects can (and generally will) snowball out of control. And------USE THE SEARCH FUNCTION. This topic has come up several times before! Tim

Well Jersey.....you will now be the turbo conversion troubleshooting guru!! You have very obviously learned a huge amount about the operation of the oem fuel injection electronics for the turbo engine. Glad you got things worked out!! Well done for sticking to it for so long!! Tim

towards the side of the car (so it's the same direction as your wheel studs) so that the low pressure that forms behind the car doesn't 'push' the fumes into the hatch.

Try redirecting your exhaust outlet and see if it solves the fume problem. Go to the parts store and buy a cheap 90* bend and just clamp it temporarily on your tailpipe so that it points towards the outside of the car. I did that on my old 240 that had twin webers. I adjusted the webers as close as I possibly could, but the fumes still sucked into the hatch. Put on the 90* tip and it completely solved the problem. If it works, go to the exhaust shop and figure out a permanent solution. If that's the only reason that you're buying a FI system, this will be a much cheaper way out. Tim

well....... if you're gonna be like that!!! I'll remember that! Tim

Well Done Dan!! That's amazing!!! It is pretty incredible how easy the LT1 wiring actually is. I was like you...scared as hell to blow up my PCM, since I had never tackled such a 'complex' wiring job before!! So....where the hell are the pics Tim

It's when the spark jumps from teh wires to the block or body, or if a plug wire isn't pushed all the way onto the spark plug and it's jumping there. Run the car at night in the pitch dark, you should be able to see if any spark is jumping around. Tim

As was mentioned before....if it was a bearing knock, it would not be a 'ticking' sound, it would be a banging sound, like knocking 2 hammers together. Have you ruled out the injectors or spark arcing? Tim

I have friends that live up there....can you say rain!! Tim

not yet. I am shooting paint on the jams today, and the whole car next weekend. After that I'll be putting everything back together and drawing up the wiring. Tim

It's been a while since I looked at my Vortecs, but I don't believe that they are anything important. I don't remember blocking anything off. Tim

Hold a piece of chalk on the damper with the engine running, then hold a rag against it. The chalk will stay behind in the groove/timing mark if you have. It may be very faint and slightly obscured. Otherwise hold a piece of wire against the top of the piston and rotate the crank until to feel that the piston is no longer moving up in the bore. that will get you close to TDC. But as Dave says above, just fire the engine and keep advancing it until you get best idle. Tim

I am waiting on my contact to provide me with some quotes. I sent them the artwork a couple of weeks ago. T-Shirt Ball Cap Patch

Here is the official Renault corporate quote: Here is the whole story: http://www.renault.com/gb/groupe/alliances_p1.htm Tim

Found this list online....nice lineup of dream cars: http://channels.netscape.com/ns/autos/gallery.jsp?gname=fastest03 #1: #7: Tim

That is insane cool!! What the hell did he do: attach the output shaft of the tranny directly to the diff? Tim