Tim240z

I have some pictures of the one I pulled: Tim web page

Take off the oil pan and look. I have 2x 4 bolt blocks, dipstick is on driver's side on both. Completely irrelevant. Usually if it is from a pre 1973 truck, it will likely be a 4 bolt. Tim

2 bolt will be fine. As a point of reference, my Dad ran mid 8 second 1/4 miles back in the early seventies with a blown sbc 2 bolt in a Chevy II. If you can find a 4 bolt for the same price and condition, obviously get it. Tim

Mike, I don't believe the fit will be any different with an older block (pre LT1). As a matter of fact, these flanges and primaries were designed for the older block. As for straight plug heads, I can bolt them up to my spare V8 (1971 truck 350) with straight plug heads to check, but I don't think it will be a problem. I very much agree with the price point issue. It is very expensive, and there is no benefit to me at all. Just trying to give guys an option. i am taking them in next week to get coated. Once I have that done, that's all she wrote. BTW, for pictures, click on the link to my site below. Tim

TZ.....put me first in line for that hatch!!!!

Wags, My frame rails are actually painted with black Hammerite, as is the top (where the fenders cover), but was taped off and is just covered in sanding dust. Once cleaned up of all the dust, it should blend in with the rest of the engine bay. Tim

I concur with TZ. Look for a 200 4R. They are pretty common in the JYs. Look in the Buick regals and similar. Tim

Have any details on the car? From the license plate, I know what country it is registered in, but dd you have any details on the install? Thanks, Tim (hope you don't mind me linking to your site?), BTW, feel free to delete the R230 file of images if you want to cleanup your image folders. Tim

I am going to be sending my full length Tri-Y headers to Rewarder Headers for HPC coating within the next week or so. Here is my question: I asked them about copying my design and producing new sets. Cost will be about $700 for jig setup, then about $3-400 per set. This does sound very expensive, but I also know that finding headers (long tube) that fit well is difficult. I have designed mine (using LT1 & T56), for optimum ground clearance, and flow (converting the S&S units to Tri-Y on firing order). If enough people are interested, the price point may come down significantly. Just thought I would throw the option out here, since I'm sending them in anyway. Like I said, I'm sending them soon! Tim

Racer, it is sprayed in color already (black)! Tim

Mudge, I have the same setup on my daily driver. Sounds like the throttle shafts may be worn, which would cause both an air leak and an unpredictable throttle return. Disconnect the linkages and feel for play. Also, pull off the tops of the carbs (5 screws I believe (and you'll have to pull out the pin that holds the linkage to the choke butterflies) and look for crud in the float bowls. If you pull the tops off carefully, you can re-use the gaskets. This will also be a good opportunity to write down all your jet sizes. The primary and secondary fuel jets sit in the bottom of the float bowls, which is exactly where the crud collects, that may be causing some of your problems. The air filter base holes are for the valve cover breather. I have mine connected to one of the carbs, and the other carb, I blocked off the hole. HTH, Tim

Well, after lots of sanding to get rid of the three or more coats of paint, (red, green, primer), to get to bare metal, and smoothing out the firewall (more sanding of the plastic filler), the final result came out very nicely. The pictures don't do it justice, and I haven't even color sanded and buffed it yet! Here are a couple of pics. Tim

All said, the SBC is a much easier swap for the following reasons: 1. Conversion kit available off the shelf (see JagsThatRun.com) 2. Chevy hop up parts are more available and generally cheaper 3. How much budget to plan for is a loaded question. After buying the car and engine and gearbox, probably $2000.00 is minimum, but can go 'sky's the limit'. 4. You would be better off with an electric fan and aftermarket (or Camaro per JTR) radiator (most go with the Taurus 2 speed fan from the JunkYards). 5. Ford conversions have been done successfully, but you have to do your own mounts etc. Two suggestions: ~Get the swap manual from JTR ~Use the search function on this board for specific questions. By this point just about any question has been asked and answered a million times. Hope this helps. Tim

I want to know how he got that thing passed the engine swap inspection!!!

We just refied through E-Trade mortgage....great rate (15 year @ 5.3%) and customer service second to none. this is the second time we have used them. I can't recommend them enough, they were great. they scheduled (with our agreement) the appraiser, the Notary public, who all came to the house on our schedule. Apart from faxing a couple of docs, we had to do nothing.Tim

Would a connector to a 9 volt (Duracell type) hidden somewhere work? Would that provide enough power to pop the door? Tim

that is the biggest reason I paid 40% more to buy a house at the coast!!!....no (or at least very little) smog around here!!I went to the Historic races at SIR a couple of years ago (my Dad was running a '71 CanAm McClaren), and the weather there was dreadful (July). All four seasons in one day....How the hell do you guys plan your day's wardrobe! Tim

It's a bunch of $$$! Why not just wire it from scratch? I did mine, took me a day, and I know where everything is. If you need raw materials, see waytekwire.com Tim

2 weeks, 3 weeks MAX. Tim

Yup, no thanks too! I'll hang in the beach weather here in Cali. Tim

5 Inch for the speedo and tach 2 5/8 for the smaller ones. Tim

ROTFLMAO

MacMasterCarr.com

See here: http://www.hybridz.org/ubb/ultimatebb.php?ubb=get_topic;f=9;t=000986 Tim

I just did mine with a 25 foot roll of 36 inch wide material. The whole interior, with a lot of waste and some left over. HTH Tim