Tim240z

T56 is a 6 speed manual gearbox. Came in Camaros, Firebirds and Vettes. Circa 1993 or so on up. Go to E-Bay and type in T56, or LT1 (V8) or LS1 (new gen. V8) and see what you see, or just do a web search on T56. Best value for money is to find a good deal on a 94 to 96 LT1 and T56 out of the above cars and drop it in. Tim

Yeah, I'm starting to get tired of messing with them. I have an inlet manifold for a single downdraft weber. When I can find a 40dgv weber for a good price I will swap it out. That way at least I won't have the issue of trying to sync the carbs....ie...half the headaches. Tim

First thing to do is order the swap manual from: Jags That Run Read that a few times, most of the basic questions will be answered. I am assuming you are talking about a 240/260/280 Z? Tim

Mudge, I'm getting about the same on my 2.4 with dual webers. My jets are: Primary fuel: 140 Secondary fuel: 135 Primary emulsion tube: F50 Secondary emulsion tube: F6 Primary air: 160 Secondary air: 165 Pump jet: 50 Venturi; 3.5 Initially the primary and secondaries (both air and fuel) were reversed, but I thought it was running too lean, and since I am mostly on the primaries, I swapped them to richen it up. I know it's not jetted well because the driveability sucks, but am too busy with the V8 project to care. I am running the 280ZX electronic dizzy with timing at 10 BTDC. Tim

LOL, that was too funny!! If you're going to BS, at least research your BS first!! Sometimes I'm glad I don't own a Honda.....the Honda owner genepool looks a little green! Tim

Chris, Watch your choice of words, no telling what audience is watching. I'd hate for someones 8 year old kid to be reading posts over their shoulder and see that. You might want to edit you post above, adding some characters in place of a couple of the letters will get your feelings across. Tim

Take the pump off the car and bench test it. The clicking you hear is probably the relay. You do have the pump running through a relay don't you? Make sure pump is wired correctly and that it is not trying to pump back into the tank. Are you running a mechanical pump off the engine? Tim

WOW!! That's awesome!! I'd love to see the engineering on the pop-up lights!! All it needs is a V8 or Turbo (or both!). Very nice. If I'd seen that before starting my project, I'd be on a flight to Canada. Tim

Here you go...read to your heart's content: B.A.R. info page Tim

Eric, Here you go: "Automotive Electrical Handbook", by Jim Horner, published by HP Books. It is a little too basic for me, except for some of the tables on gauge size and amperage. Tim

Eric, I'll have to check tonight at home. I'll post it later. Tim

Jared, I have a book. You are welcome to borrow it. Email me you mailing address. BTW, that is a bunch of money for that kit, and it doesn't even have very many relays. Here are some approx $$ I have in mine: Aluminum sheet for base: Couple of bucks from metal yard. Fuse panel (20 circuits--16 from 1 supply, 4 from another, which allows you to have a switched supply and a constant supply: 40 bucks Relays: 12 of them, total about 70-80 bucks. Wire: Free from work (they recently rewire a turbine) Misc. connectors; 10 bucks And now I know where everything goes and how everything works....priceless. I'll get my part numbers from home tonight. Tim

Jared, Let me know and I will post all the part numbers that I used from Waytek. Their prices are excellent and service/speed fantastic, as is the quality. Automotive wiring is very simple, especially when you start from scratch and break the project down to the individual cicuits. I plan to make up a circuit diagram for my car, to remind me how I've done it for any upgrades and repairs down the road, and to assist the next owner (oops, did I say that out load?), with troubleshooting. I can post when it's done. Tim

I used Waytekwire.com for most of my supplies, and to make this: Tim

Now, Now...that's not nice.

I'm just pissed because I don't have my issue of sport Z mag yet!!! Tim

If you want something really stout, the R230 diff from an Infinity Q45, or 300ZXTT will hold up to just about anything and comes with OEM VLSD. Otherwise, most guys go with the R200 from the later 280Zs or ZXs. Those will take a good bit of punishment, but to be honest, if you will only have 250hp or so, in such a light car without slicks at the 1/4 mile (traction kills diffs, not hp), then just about any of them will be ok, including the smaller R180 from the earlier Zs. There is a picture side by side of the R180 and R230 on my website. Hope this helps, Tim

I think I need to get a Z body for my 1/10 scale RC racer....belt drive AWD, full bearing, and hot motor....another HybridZ!!! Tim

Thanks Pete!! I guess my lack of vision is a factor of being married for so long. Tim

OK, I'm starting to feel really dumb here....help me out guys, I haven't hooked up the caffein I.V. yet! Tim

Check to see if the rod on the slave isn't caught on something that is hanging it up. Also check that the angle of the master pushrod is perfectly straight. If it isn't it may be pushing against the bore of the cylinder. All I can think of. Tim

ROTFLMAO Tim

Like you said, you have a bunch of $$$ invested in the rear already, so the decision is going to be a financial one more than anything. With the amount of power you are putting down, do you think that wider tires (within reason) would make a lot of difference, unless of course you plan on going 14inch wide, which may ruin the look that you are trying to stay with. How about running some stickier tires? Or just go with option #1 and donate the blower setup to a good cause ( ) Tim

Someone smart once said "The only stupid question is the one you never asked"

I'm not a turbo guy, but does this not answer your question? Tim