Tim240z

Remember weight. I believe all the engines sold at chain parts stores have iron everything (intake, heads, waterpump etc). If you want to pep it up with aluminum stuff, it is going to cost, so price it out before spending. If the deal is super good, then by all means, go ahead. The cam, heads and intake are going to be low hp units. Tim

Home Depot aerosol paint cabinet.

'cause that was the 1973 240Z she thought needed verifying! TZ...yup= 1973 chevsun 240 Cheyenne Z 3/4 ton pickup hatchback. Tim

Well, it's all done!! Thanks to a member here, who emailed me with a suggestion, I had a third party DMV company to come to the house and do it!! It cost me $50, but well worth it!! As for worrying about having a V8 in the Z......when she arrived, my 71 Chevy truck was parked in the driveway, which we used to 'lean' on to fill out the paperwork. Well after writing in the model of the car (Datsun 240Z), she asks me to pop the hood on the truck . Holy cow the Z must have done quite a morph!! Well it's done now, so I am VERY hapy!! Tim

Thanks for the replies guys. I have the Title and old registration form and have all the Vin Verification forms. I tried to have the local cops stop by the house, but they said it had to be a CHP, or DMV agent. I understand that they are mainly worried about the VIN matching the title, but me, in my paranoia, am scared that the inspector will see the LT1 and say something like "Oh, by the way, you will need to get that engine checked out by the inspection station!" Tim

I need to get my Hybrid Z's VIN verified because when I bought it, it hadn't been registered for too long. I have gone so far as to put it in my name, and get it back into the computer, but to get it registered, I have to go back to the AAA to have the VIN verified. Herein lies my problem. I want to get the drivetrain in, but I don't want to take it to the Auto Club with a honking V8 in it (covert convertion ). Do they check the firewall stamp, or just the tag that is rivetted to the dash? If they don't use the firewall stamp, I will just swap dash tags with my other 240, and drive it in. What do ya all think? Otherwise I will need tro rent a tow dolly and tow it to the AAA, without the drivetrain installed....PITA!! Tim

No the R230 will not bolt in. You will have to: Make a front diff mount. Get a R200 mustache bar and redrill (machine shop!!) Get 2 sets of side shafts to make one set (need 4 inner CVs, to use inboard and outboard) Have new side shafts made (shorter) Have a new driveshaft made. Unless you are using monster torque and HP, use the R200, that is bolt in. Tim

TZ, I just saw that. I am thinking about it, but am a little worried about shipping...... Tim

You'll have to swap out the rails, but otherwise they will fit. Tim

I agree with Pete. Check that you are actually on the idle circuit. Disconnect the throttle cable if necessary. Tim

jared, I had a roll of plotter paper (about 3 foot wide). I measure the firewall (the most difficult part) and cut the paper to the approx. size. Then I laid the paper up against the firewall and taped it in a couple of places to hold it. Then I just held the paper against the 'protrusions' on the firewall and cut with a blade. I pushed the paper into the corners and again, cut with a blade. The nice thing about using paper is that if you mess up, you can just tape another scrap of paper where you messed up and keep going. Then, it was just a matter of transfering the template to the isulation, then to the carpet and cut with scissors. HTH. Tim

Zach, No kits here. I used a 25 foot roll (36inches wide) of insulation (macmaster carr[$25 or so]), and a 12 foot (x6 foot) length of inddor/outdoor carpeting from Home Depot[$40 or so]. The longest time was spent making the templates from a roll of plotter paper. Tim

I can help out with PCM wiring, I have the 94 Factory service manual, but have no experience with the ZX. I completely rewired my 240's body harness and dash harness from scratch, so I don't even have any experience with the oem Z wiring either. I know the 93 is different from later LT1s, but not sure how different? Tim

Phil, Sounds cool. I am in SD once in a while, but not very often. Where abouts are you? Do you ever get up to the LA area? I am right near Los Angeles International Airport. (about 2 hours N. of Downtown SD). Tim

Or Just make your own, Like This. Tim

web page

OOOOOOOOOh, that brings back memories!! I had a 69 Mach 1. Great car!!!Tim

Van, Probably won't be until 2nd week in December or so... Thanks, Tim

Here are some pics of how I spent my weekend, starting to get the interior together. Here is the page, sorry for all the pop-ups. Click on the pics to enlarge. Hopefully, everything will be cool and quiet when this thing hits the road! Tim

Do you guys know whether the LS1 MAF will work with the LT1. They look physically similar (from pictures anyway). Are there any differences? From what I see here I would probably just pick one up from E-Bay or salvage yard for cheap. Has anyone had any experience with the Throttle body with integrated NO2 injection passages (stealth injection)? Worth the $500 buck or so from Jegs? Tim

Damn, no 16 inch available

Some info from the Corvette forum: MAF MAF 2 Tim

Phil, I believe that my stock MAF is dodgey 'cause if I try to start the engine with it connected, the car runs for a few seconds, then stalls. If I unplug it (defaulting to speed density), it runs just fine, although takes a little while for the revs to reach a low idle. Anyways, if I were to buy a new one, is it correct to assume that the most effective replacement would be the GMS unit (not knowing what a OEM MAF costs)? Tim

Thanks for the info Phil. Cool stuff! What is the advantage of the GMS MAF housing though...not familiar with that one. Tim

You'll need, at a minimum: Pistons (you'll need to know your bore size before ordering) Ring set (to match piston size) Bearing set (mains and big ends) Full gasket set (don't cheap out here) You should be able to use your existing crank, connecting rods etc. Optional: Cam and cam bearings, and lifters aluminum water pump oil pump oil pan with windage tray Your machine shop will need the new pistons so that they can ensure that they rebore tot he correct size to match. If you need a new crank (if yours is toast), then you might as well get a 400 stroke crank and 6 inch rods, and pistons to match. Tim BTW, get a catalogue from PAW (Performance Automotive Warehouse), or look in any hot rod mag, they always have a 2 page ad.