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Tim240z

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Everything posted by Tim240z

  1. I'm always thinking about the TT SBC inthe back of my mind (which I should forget about until the damn car is finished and on the road ), but if one were to TT a 383 SBC, what would the ideal Turbo specs be? Assuming: 8.5:1 SCR, FI, maximum boost of 10-12psi, and boost to come on at about 3500 rpm to a max rpm of 6500rpm. Like I said, nothing I plan to do in the very near future, but it is a helleva sexy topic, no? Tim
  2. Both effectively accomplish the same thing, but turbos are generally more efficient because you don't need to use engine power to make power (not 100% accurate, but good enough for comparison). Since SCs are belt driven, it takes power from the engine to drive the pulleys, but SCs power curve is flat in comparison, so it is making power from idle, no spool up time, so you don't get that sudden 'rush' of power. Tim
  3. I recently polished the 15inch 'swastica' rims that I have on my daily driver 240Z. They were really 'crusty'. I started with a scotch pad and carb cleaner aerosol to get the muck off, then used a scotch pad and "blue Magic" metal polish (Pep Boys), using simple green inbetween those two steps. Lots of elbow grease too, though. But the wheel glistened like brand new when done. Actually had a guy in a ZX at the 7-11 ask me where I sent them to get polished. I have also found that a light spraying of non-stick cooking spray keeps the brake dust at bay, at least for a while. Tim
  4. Yeah the cars have to street legal, so no rocket engines . It was a blow through carb setup, with a icebath heat exchanger. The run was over a 1km roll, both ways, thenm the two speed traps averaged. He actually hit a higher top speed, but had problems on the return run, which pulled the average down. The body was pretty much stock. Everytime he tried things to improve aerodynamics, it got worse which show how well the aeros are on the T/A (knight rider generation body style). Power was through a ZF6 speed, with a rear ratio of about 2.06 if I can remember right. Mat, I don't have any pictures, not digital anyway. It was the cover story of "Car Magazine", which is the equivalent of "Car and Driver". No one seems to be able to touch the record. It was set about 10 years ago. If you want to see a picture of the engine, look in the book "Maximum Boost". There's a picture of it in there. Tim
  5. I disagree. If vented adequately, the 'plastic' cells last a long time. I know of MANY cells that have been used in race cars, in hot environments, for in excess of 10 years with no sag.Tim
  6. Some 'interesting' speed stuff from South Africa (home). speed record of Diesel powered car and caravan (trailer in US) British truck driver wins Eddie Irvine's F1 Jag SA Land speed record to be attempted in Corvette. By the way, in the last article, the 372kph (231MPH) record was set with a TT Pontiac 427ci BBC.(by my Dad) Tim
  7. IMO, and only IMO, putting that far back may be ok for long stretches of running, like Bonneville or something, but street driving, or 1/4 milers, I think the lag and inefficiencies would make it impracticle and somewhat difficult to drive. Maybe two small turbines? Tim
  8. Damn, for $1500, I would have to think long and hard about the risks....you likely made the right decision though! Tim
  9. Yeah search the JYs til you find something that will work. My LT1 cable is going to work as is. You could always just get a universal one from Pep Boys or something and make it fit. $60 for a cable Tim
  10. You'll need: R200 mustache bar, redrilled (take to a machine shop...trust me!) Fab a new cross-member (the one below the mustache bar where the control arms mount) Fab a new front diff mount. 2 SETS of sideshafts (R230) to get 4 inner CV housings (bolt up flanges) New side shafts. Some pics of mine here And some more here. All in all, it's not difficult, but is very time consuming, especially to ensure that the drive angles are good for the drive shaft. I used a solid (no universal joints) driveshaft for alignment purposes. I am working on a kit, but until I can test my designs in real life, I am not willing to sell anything. HTH, Tim
  11. My diff is out of a Q45. The R200 is supposedly plenty strong enough, but finding a LSD unit is tough. The R230 is oem viscous LSD. You will have to change the flange on your driveshaft. As for length, not sure on yours, but mine, with a T56, is 27 inches long or so. If you aren't too worried about having LSD, then the R200 is a bolt in upgrade. The R230 is a 230mm diff, which is slightly larger than the Ford 9". Tim
  12. Get the engine number and ask the cops or DMV to run the numbers, or find out from the Chevy Dealership what the VIN number for the car is from that engine number and run a Carfax report. That would be my best guess. How much is he asking for it. Tim
  13. Here is a good site for calculations: Smokem up Tim
  14. Huh, hows that?OBDI allows full interface tuning and PCM changes from a laptop. No chip burning etc. Forgive my ignorance, but please explain. Tim
  15. John, I don't plan on sectioning, but am just curious: What struts would be used when using the larger diameter 280Z strut housings? The 240 fronts would flop around in there wouldn't they? Tim
  16. OK so you have a newer OBDII LT1 huh? My statement/questions are moot then Tim
  17. Too much restriction. They will not interchange. Tim
  18. Let me know how it turns out, and let me know if you need the $$$.
  19. I have to agree about the Gym. I used to be a competitive bodybuilder until I tore 3 ligaments in my left knee and had to lay off for almost a year. I never did get back into it, thus my current physical state, but I was the most vigorous and energetic during those days. I know what you mean about going back to the gym and being the 'puny guy', but do it for yourself, not for how you appear to others. If you do it for the wrong reasons, you won't get out of it what you want. my 2c anyway. Tim
  20. This may be surprising, it was to me, but a collegue at work bought a new (2003) Hyundai Tiburon GT. I drove it (hard), and was quite surprised. V6, six speed manual, very nice bucket seats and contemporary interior styling. Very nimble and handles well. Brakes are excellent! Only downside I can see (from a personal preference standpoint) is that it is front wheel drive, and the power steering is a tad too light. I would prefer manual steering in a sport(y) car....but only peronal preferences here! Tim
  21. I have to agree. The styling is growing on me now. They are becoming very common here in SoCal, and the more I see them the more I appreciate the lines of the car, but I just don't understand why, with the off the shelf stuff that Nissan has in both Turbo and V8 configurations, they went with a V6. This car could have been in the SuperCar status class, like the Supra was/is. At least they should have an option choice, maybe a Super GT option or something that comes with 400 horsepower. Hmmm....seems to be all show and no go. Tim
  22. Wow...pitched a tent with that one. I thought my old GSXR750 was quick!!!! Tim
  23. Hmmm. Buy one with a blown engine and drop a V8 in it! ...... Sorry couldn't resist!, and have absolutely nothing of value to add to your post/question. Tim
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