Tim240z

Try this: Set the front float level (primary circuit) slightly on the high side (not too much!!), and set the rear floats a little lower than ideal. It is unlikely that you will run the secondary bowls dry, unless you are doing sustained high rpm/speed driving, which unless it is track day, is unlikely. What may (emphasize 'may') be happening is the fuel from the secondary (rear) bowl is sloshing into the choke tower and momentarily flooding the motor, enough to stall it with the throttle closed. If you want to see if this is the case, set the rear float level to well below normal, so that the bowl is running almost dry, then do a hard brake and see what happens. If the exercise works, then slowly increase the float level until it starts choking a little on hard breaking and leave it there. Remember not to run to the point of opening the secondaries while the float levels are set very low 'cause you will end up running very lean. HTH...let us know if you come right. Tim

On my 94 T-56 here goes: Left side, near middle top: Skip shift solenoid (CAGS) Next on the left side..a little further back: Reverse lockout solenoid Further back on left side: Vehicle Speed Sensor(VSS) On the right side: reverse light sender Hope this helps. Tim

Steve, If you are positive that all the air is out of the system, then try moving the pushrod pivot point closer to the top of the clutch pedal (closer to the pedal pivot point), thet should give the pushrod less travel through the pedals arc. Hope this makes sense. Tim

I got the kit and although for my application it took some extra customizing work, for the price you can't go wrong. Tim

Yeah it's been like that forever! Just highlight it with your cursor then it's easy to read...or cut and paste. Tim

I'll check tonight when I get home. Tim

I got $5 on Scottie!!!

OOOOHHH DANG!!!...them's fightin' words!! This should be good!!

Guy, I have the FSM for the 94 Z28 LT1 vehicle. If you give me some specific queries, I will be happy to look them up. Tim

Ain't it great...don't ya feel like such the restoration Pro when you walk into your garage and the Z is up on it's side or upside down?!! I know I did. I REALLY can't imagine doing the subframe connectors with the car horizontal..HOLY COW!! that would have been a PITA!!!! Kudo's man!! Tim

Phantom, There are a couple of pics HERE.. Have a look at the post regarding shocks from today and have a look at Mike's site...that is where I got mine from. I am running 16 x 8 rims with 245/50 - 16s with plenty of space...could probably fit another 1.5" on the inside (shock side). Tim

Hey Admins.... Are we going to get a link to this page from the HybridZ site? That would be good, but hide it a little, no need to have every Tom, Dick and Harry looking at contact data on us. Tim

I concur 100%. Even better, when a newbie gets their email with their password, have a statement in there telling to make use of the search function....not everyone is a UBB expert, I certainly was clueless on searching the archives when I first logged in. Tim

CrazyZ, The adapters were made for me by a good friend (who also happens to be an expert machinist). If we can get a group purchase together, they will be much cheaper. As for the sideshafts: At this point the solution is (I am currently working on a cheaper/better solution for the CVs) to buy 2 sets of Q45 shafts just to get the 4 inner CVs. The actual shafts are made from scratch using NASCAR spec materials. The mustache bar must be from the R200. The R200 bar is thicker (stronger) and places the diff further back (necessary for correct diff to hub alignment). I had to put a couple of washers between the diff and mustache bar to pull the diff forward just a tad. Note: The R200 bar will need to be drilled by a machine shop..very thick and very hard material....most will do it for very little or nothing. I used the 280Z stub axels 'cause they're stronger. As for the LT1 fitment...it's the same as any other SBC (except for LS1) fitment wise, but you do have to deal with wiring and serpentine belt routing (see my recent post regarding belt/pulley routing). I did not buy an aftermarket wiring harness, but rather spent endless hours with the Factory Service Manual doing it myself. Other than that it is pretty straight forward. Tim

Ya know guys, if I had made a firm plan on what I wanted to do, I would likely have never started this project...just food for thought......sometimes the only thing that keeps me going is the time and money spent to this point would be wasted if I just 'cocked' the whole thing. I have a degree in project management so I REALLY understand the importance of a plan, but in my case it has been more fun 'just winging it' Tim

Dave, Looks pretty schweet Man!!! We need to get together again before you leave!! Tim

CrazyZ, See my other post in the Driveline section...has all the info you need. Dave....you smoking crack again!!! It'll never be done...hell I'm just hoping it's done before the MSA WCNs next year! I guess, since you have a trailer, we can tow it and see if we can break the 5 min 1/4 mile pushing it!! Tim BTW...when you moving?

Mike, I can't say that I agree with the thickness of the sheetmetal comment...have you seen how thin the sheetmetal is on new cars...if, that is, it is not plastic! Tim

Moby, The solid driveshaft is perfectly straight, but the diff and gearbox are not perfectly aligned (not easily possible), but I had the driveshaft made straight so that I know exactly where I stand on alignment. Denny: The flange adapters can be available anytime, the price is going to depend on how many orders come in (group purchase)....Probably somewhere in the region of 250 or so, or a bit less if there is enough interest....I haven't discussed this with my machinist at length yet, but that is what he said in passing. Tim

Doug, I think that they should work. If you want, I'll measure the back spacing (off set) on mine and let you know. I was always under the impression that all the bolt up brackets would work. Tim

TZ, Actually, mine came off a spark combustion Maxima. I see them just about every time I go to the JY....I hesitate to offer pulling some for you guys only because it is a REAL PITA to do in the 'Yard'. Tim

No prob Jim...just worried that I did something wrong Tim

I submitted, but nothing is showing up... Tim

see here

Oltmann, I was originally planning the same item from McMaster's, but this one only cost me a Buck from the self serve JY (price of admission). If the pulley is correctly aligned, then your concerns are probably unfounded. This Ford one does have a bit of a lip, but even with a big lip, if the pulley is misaligned, it will throw/turn/cut the belt. Tim