Tim240z

I justpurchase a pump from summit which costs less than 100 bucks for my LT1. For now I forget the brand....but it is a brand name. I am buying my hard lines today from McMaster Carr. 3/8th supply and 5/16 return. That is what my vernier said that stock lines are. That equates to -8 supply and -6 return. Hope this helps. If you want to know the details on the pump, let me know and I will check when I get home tonight. Nevermind I found it: Tim scroll down to mallory

Hi John...welcome..... Pros: Adjustability...ride height and spring rates More space for wider wheels/tires Looks freaking COOL!! Cons: $$$$, which isn't to bad a little work to install (not much really). Hope this helps. A couple of guys on the board can supply for you and have very reasonable prices. Tim

Maybe the fuel lines are to big? The larger ID lines may be creating a pressure drop...what is the ID of the lines? Tim

One thing to keep in mind also is that many/most manufacturers have colored dots on the sidewall of the tires (usually 2). The colors' designation varies, but one always represents a manufacturing 'high spot' (read heavy spot), and the other dot coincides with placement of the tire relative to the valve. Most tire shops pay absolutely NO attention to these dots, and probably will think that you are talking crap when you mention it. If they do, go somewhere else. Although in many cases ignoring these mounting indicator dots will not create much noticable difference, in many cases it will and you will find yourself chasing balacing problems forever, especially if the balance issues occur at higher speeds...ie 45mph and higher. Tim

TZ, Motor mounts don't concern me, I consider myself a fair to average fabricator. The wiring does though, but I figure if I can rewire the LT1 harness for the V8 conversion, then I should be able to do this one?! I just don't know if I want another project right now, especially if it isn't really that worthwile. Tim

I have a line on a low mile complete car (neighbour across the road). Literally a little old lady's car!!!. Body is rough...sea air has started to rust out the roofline. Anyway, what do you guys think of this conversion. I was thinking of putting it in my 73 daily driver (I'm tired of the dog of a 2400 I6). I'm sure having the whole car will make the conversion easier, but is it worth the effort. Tim

If you are just removing them, not putting them back, then just hit them with the impact gun on the nut.....there is not that much load on them. I didn't use anything when I pulled everything apart to fit my coilovers. If you plan to pu the springs back, then wrap a couple of pieces of wire around them while they're still compressed on the strut. Otherwise, don't be cheap like me and get some spring compressors. Tim

Scottie, It definitely sounds like a dynamic inbalance of the front wheels. You may have thrown a wheel weight, or the tires have gottten very slightly out of round from sitting (unlikely). Have the wheels rebalanced. Make sure that they DON'T pull the weights off the wheels before they check them on the balancer. This way you will know how out of balance they are/were. If you can find a shop that can do it, have the wheels balanced on the car. This is accurate to +- 1 gram, whereas the regular offcar dynamic/static balacing is only accurate to +- 5 grams. Tim

"yeah that's a smile on my face....Do you SEE the joystick anywhere?"

Al, Get yourself a dial indicator with a magnetic base and check for runout on the rotors, I'm certain that has to be it. Maybe they have warped slightly. Tim

Sorry, it's been too long since I pulled out my dash, but to be safe why not loosen it and pull it out to the point where it will lift away? More work, but at least you'll be sure. Tim

Pete, I hope you got him something cool for his birthday!!?? Maybe a 1st gen Z to start working on (at the rate his ol' man finishes Z projects, he might be done by the time he gets his license!! ) Tim

Al, If you are going to replace the bearings, remember, don't overtighten them. Many people believe that the correct way to set bearing preload is to tighten them down and then back off the nut until the hub spins freely. At this point the damage is done. The correct way is to keep tightening until there is no play (lateral) in the bearings. Run them as loose as you can without having any play. Also, remember to check them again after a few miles of driving, incase they have bedded in a bit and some play has developed. If you don't need to replace them, just ignore all this Tim

Al, It is not an alignment problem (just to validate, I was an alignment tech for several years). It is either runout on the rotors (most likely), or possibly the ball joints are shot). Jack up the front of the car and grab the wheel at 12 and 6 (clock) and tug back and forward. If there's play, snug up or replace the bearings. Then grab the wheel at 10 and 4 (clock and tug back and forward. If there's play it is the ball joint. Also, is the vibration through the steering wheel or the seat/car? Tim BTW, if there is no suspension play, get the alignment checked anyway. That should be checked at least every 8-10,000 mile or less.

Nah, no F1 stuff....way to exotic and even old F1 stuff is probably going to set you back BIG $$$(plus not enough suspension travel. It's just an overgrown go-Kart). Maybe just the rear setup from the new 7 seies Beemer , or maybe a Carrera 4S full setup!! Can you say traction!! Tim

Unequal length double a-arms all around, with Bilstein fully adjustables with awd and traction control (ala typhoon) and speed sensitive ride height....since I'm only dreaming..... Tim

I have a picture on my site, but it's a R180 and R230 with no measurements, but it'll give an idea. My Site Tim

Dude, Try a bypass wire from the battery to the coil and see if that helps. At least that will narrow it down. Tim

Mike, I used to race 100cc Yamaha Karts back home. I was very seriously looking into it a couple of years ago, but just as I was about to lay down some cash on an almost brand new used cart, my wife fell preggers. Anyways, contact me offline if you want any details. I am planning to get one when the Z-8 is on the road and I can concentrate on other things again (I get tunnel vision when working on a project). Also, as soon as my son is 4 years old, I'm getting him a little 80cc one too!! Schumaker (sp), Senna etc all started Karting at that age!! Tim

Man, I love those valve covers, and love the clean look of no pulleys!!! Very sweet conversion!!! Tim

http://www.northernautoparts.com/ Tim

Doesn't seem to bad. Haven't ever dealt with them, but maybe call them and see what kind of a 'gut' feeling you get. Just remember, those motors need alot of stuff to complete them, you'll need to add that stuff up to see what the total price is: Water pump, damper, carb, flexplate/flywheel, distributor, fuel pump, plugs, wires, inlet manifold fittings, pulleys etc, etc... Compare that to some other crate motors that places like Scoggin Dickey, Summit, PAW, and others offer which are more complete and are from known good suppliers (established reputation). Piece of mind is worth a hell of a lot, trust me! Tim

The one I went to didn't charge me a cent, and I will now take all my machining business to them (I just picked them out of the yellow pages.)Tim

Oh...my hands are still recovering from this...I tried this just last week (R180 bar no good, and was easier to drill). I spent 5 hours trying and ended up taking it to a machine shop. They used the lowest speed on a huge drill press which still took a while. Definitely give it up and take it somewhere. Tim

RX, Yes I am using FC WIRE.The penetration is excellent,esp. welding with high amps on thick materials. I have to be careful and really take my time on the really thin stuff (like the roof line when I cut off the drip rails). I have been very happy with it,esp for the $$$ (I paid a little less than $300). Tim