Tim240z

LT-1 350Z, Are you running without the MAF? Do you have any pics of the engine from the front (not in the car)? I would like to see how the alternator is placed and belt routed. Can't really see very well from your online pics. Thanks, Tim

Craig, I made a bracket that was of a completely different design compared to the JTR one. It will work without the Caprice tailhousing. There is a pic on my site, but if you already have the JTR bracket, it would most likely be cheaper/easier to just get the new tailhousing. Tim

An adapter for the cv flange to the companion flange at the stub axle. Tim

Someone posted that there was a junkyard somewhere that supplied these calipers for a VERY reasonable price and gave a warranty. Do a search and might find the source. Tim

David, I take it the carbs are running better now? Bang...looks like you got a free tune-up out of the deal Tim

Scotty, Looks pretty sweeeet! Howcome you didn't match the color to the car's exterior color? Not your bag, or couldn't find material? Tim

Jared, No experience with any of them, but since they are "universal" kits, there will always be some amount of extra work involved. I don't anything will be 'plug and play'. That said, they are probably all a good starting point. Anything would help when you are dealing with a 30 year old wiring harness. Tim

TZ, that's exactly why I want to do this myself (and most other stuff too) so that if I get any electrical gremlins (which I had better not after all this effort , I will know exactly where to look for the problems. I'm sure that it would be much quicker/easier (if not a little more expensive) to go the painless route, but....for the same reason I tackled the LT1 engine harness myself (and I was tempted many times to just say "F"-it and buy the painless kit), when I am done with all the wiring I can say to myself: "I did it myself"...to me, personally, that is more than worth all the headaches and 'wasted' time.

No offense, but WHY?? Tim

If you plan to use Natural Gas (Methane), check what %methane is available locally. CA ARB has some very strict rules on the minimum level of methane/ethane (there are inerts also like CO, CO2, N2 and some toxics like pentane). That will effect your emissions and performance (octane). There are some Natural Gas producers that have very sweet gas (high methane content 95%+) so get that if possible. BTW..I work for a Gas Utility. Tim

Rated, Are you reffering to the Waytek catalogue? In my one the prices arelisted in the back few pages, by part number. Hell if I could afford the painless kit, I would definitely get it...no doubt (my intention is not to put Painless down, but dang it's pricey$$$$), but it would still mean adding relay circuits and extra fuse circuits, so that's why I went this way. Tim

Here's some pics. Obviously not complete yet, but you will get the idea: I will post the part numbers for the fuse block, connectors that clip into the block (that the fuses can push in to) and the relays. You most likely wont need as many, but I am running a relay for just about EVERY circuit, just to be sure. Tim

IMHO, I wouldn't use a laptop as my primary/only machine. Unless you ahve a full docking station (not just a port replicator), it is difficult/inconvenient to hook up a bunch of peripherals to it. Not impossible though. Also I've found them (in my time as a tech support)to be much less reliable than a desktop and the desktops are more upgradeable. My advise (FWIW) is to get a zoomy desktop with all the goodies, and get a used el cheepo laptop (Pentium II laptops can be had now for pennies) for auto tuning. I plan to (when I start tuning my LT1 PCM) to re-image my laptop with the bare minimum software, just to be sure that nothing conflicts with the tuner software and nothing unecessary is bogging the memory. JMHO. Tim BTW Dave...I have a IBM PII 400 mhz desktop with Win2000 loaded on it if you need something quick. Tim

Jim, Get a catalogue from www.waytekwire.com and rewire it yourself. Get a new fuseblock and some relays and wire and go to it. That way you can have relays in places where Datsun should have put them and have a more logical wiring layout. I bought a very nice fuse block, 12 relays, and some connectors to redo my wiring for the LT1 conversion. I have ripped out all the underdash wiring looms and replaced all the gauges with autometer ones...just for point of reference. I can post pictures of my new 'electrical center' if you want. IMHO, the Painless products are VERY overpriced, and still (from what I have heard from others on this board) needs quite a bit more wiring work to complete the installation, since it is a universal unit. Tim

Check for rust under the battery tray, bottom of the fenders (esp. behind the front wheels and in front of the rear wheels), above the tail lights, under the hatch, and look very closely at the floors and frame rails. The fenders and floors are pretty easy (relative to your experience I guess), but the rear hatch area is more difficult. Hope this helps. Tim

Death Race 2000....way kewl movie!! Tim

Guys, I'll post a picture tomorrow. I'm not about to try upload via dialup (do it on T1 at work). Davy and Jim, If you can wire a stereo, you can do the whole car. Best thing to do is to draw a basic wiring diagram (very basic) that contains all the circuits (starter, fuel pump, headlights, flashers, horns and so on and so on). Then it's just sitting down (on a soft cushion...trust me on this one) for hours on end, stripping and crimping wires and terminal connectors. If you guys want, I'll post the part numbers that I ordered from waytek with the pictures. Tim

The R200 will be fine. Many, many guys here are running them. If you want an upgrade from that, the R230 from a Q45 or 300ZTT is stronger, but involves more work and $$$, but does include a viscous LSD. if you want an upgrade from that, talk to Scottie about using a 'Vette rear.....much more work and $$. Tim

Thanks Vince...you da man!! I think those are the only wires that I have actually identified as being needed (apart from gauges and fluff stuff). Thanks man. Tim

200 4R uses the same output splines as the TH350, but the mounting pad is further back than the TH350, it is that same spacing as the TH400, which is the same as the T56. If you are worried about strength, just ask Scottie.....he's running all kinds of GN-T torque through his, and hooking up hard at the strip. To my knowledge he has not had any problems with his. BowtieOverDrives.com makes a pretty stout one, for a very reasonable $$. HTH. Tim

DAW, if there is no ignition sources, Methanol would be your best bet. I know a guy who ran it in his modified to keep a 400ci chevy cool (has constant problems with the 400 overheating). Worked well...as long as you never crash. Tim

Hey LT1 guys. I think I have gotten my wiring for the PCM figured. Can anyone confirm that the input/ouput wires that I have determined are unnecessary, can actually be deleted. I just to make sure that I'm on the right track. It is from a 94 Z28 with T56. Here goes (these are the wires that I think are unnecessary): RED Connector : 7,9,10,11,12,14,15,23,25,31,32 BLACK Connector : 1,7,8,12,13,21 (28, 29 I can't figure out what they do?) CLEAR Connector : 11,13,15,16,28,29,30 BLUE Connector : 2,6,8,11,12,15,24,20,28 These numbers are PCM plug numbers. Thanks, Tim

Hoo Yaa...that was a lively one , huh guys. Sparks flying everywhere, and I didn't even have my grinder out. Yup Lone: Time, and the spoken word....two things that can never be taken back. he he

Take that and that and that .... he he Tim

John, Also...Try Bowtieoverdrives.com. They have a "TV cable made EZ" device. Looks very good, although a little pricey. They seem to have done their homework on this one. I have visited their shop and they seem to do very good work. Tim