Tim240z

This might not be help, but I have always just used a chain and hoist with my inline 6, connected to the head (rearmost exh. man. bolt and opposite side front of head). This was with the engine only (no trans attached). I just manhandle the motor into place. just FWIW. Tim

Thanks for all the info Guys. I dived into the wiring harness trying to trace everything and eliminate the unnecesary stuff. MAN...no wonder these Camaros are so slow.. they have to carry around 10 tons of wiring!!

Mike, I seem to remember a super long thread that was started a while back where Grumpy gave some pretty good insight into this very topic. I believe it was even in this section. Try a search on the topic....If I find it first I'll post you a link. Tim

Dude, I live RIGHT next door to LAX. Contact me offline. Tim

At work we are madated to attend the 'Smith Driving' class every year. I have been through it about 3 times now and it is really starting to sink in (amazing since my racing days my driving habits were opposite of everything that 'Smith' teaches). Because of this I have avoided several near hits. Sometimes it's just not your TIME Good to still have you with us Dude. Tim

Do the rear wheels spin freely when up in the air, in neutral? Sounds like the brakes are binding or the diff is binding. I am assuming that this is a five speed manual like your signature states? Tim

I used 1x3 rect tubing. Not very hard or expensive.You will have problems welding in galvanized stuff. Tim

Tim

TZ: The stock you have should be fine. The lengths used are short enough that very little flexing will occur. If you are still a little concerned, just add a few gussets. The stuff I used is about 2.3 mm or so thick. Tim

Sorry Dan...I hear your sarcasm, but I don't know how to pull the thumbnail across from my site so it appears as the full size version.I have pulled the image, so if you want to see it it is on the home page of my site. TZ: Let me know and I will be happy to measure it.The way I made it was to bolt the 2 plates against the tunnel, then bolt the horizontal plate to the tranny mount bolt, then by trial and error got the angles right for the vertical bars. Got the tranny/engine level and tacked it. Tim

Mark, Does the elbow interfere with the operation/effectiveness of the knock sensor? Tim

You guys that are running the LT1 in your Zs....what headers are you using. I had originally bought the el Cheapo Summit block huggers (about $70) for the 1st gen SBC that I was planning on using. Now that I have the LT1, the passenger side collector fouls with the KNock sensor Also the angled plugs are a challenge with these headers (not impossible, just very close), but the Knock sensor is a biggy. Any suggestions/reccomendations? Thanks... Tim

This probably isn't the correct way, and Grumpy et al will have a coronary, but I have always just used a vise with a piece of tube (with an ID larger than the OD of the pin)and a socket or something similar to push it out. Sometimes I heat the piston a bit, sometimes it's not necessary. Otherwise take then to a machine shop. Tim

Well my 'new' LT1 and t56 has been in the engine bay of my 240 for two weeks now (engine just resting on the pads and the GBox hanging from the gearshifter hole by a length of string). To make a long story short, the transmount that I made for the 200 4R (pictured below) fits with the T56 perfectly!!! Everything is nice and snug, no tunnel pounding necessary or anything...fits like it was made to be in there!! Cool...one less thing to fab up!!! Now back to the garage to pull the R180 Mustache bar and drill and mount the R200 bar for the R230...... my site At last something went my way!! Tim

How about: Japanese Soul American Heartbeat or Old Dog (or Dawg) New Tricks (helps the pun if you have trick flow heads) or Far East Finese US muscle Too Corny?? Tim

IMHO, go to a JY and pick up a late 60s, early 70s truck engine. They're cheap and the blocks are stong (4 bolt mains etc). Find one that has the block number that ends with xxxxxx10. If you plan to build your own, this is a good starting point. If the bottom end is in good shape, pick up a cam, lifters, set of vortec heads and inlet manifold and carb. $2000 plus the price of the block and you will have a decent (300hp or so) motor. Tim

Well, I Love to do my own work, so Maybe rebuild. BUT, you may be better off with a crate engine. If that engine has stock heads and other parts, then don't bother. If you are going for decent HP, then you will end up paying more than you would for a decent crate engine. Also, you can most likely get a better deal from a junkyard for a motor that is probably in better shape. Just my opinion. Tim

Right click on the 'X' where the picture was supposed to appear and go to properties. Then cut and paste the url manually into the browser's address window. Tim

I used 1x3 rectangular tubing (.085 wall I think). I would have prefered to use the .065 wall 1x3, but they were out of stock and I didn't want to wait. Tim

OFF WITH HIS NUTS!!!

I've read about these in my holley book (the book is about 100 years old). You just do the opposite as you would do for a regular carb. Tim

Rick, I used to have a link that gave stock HP numbers for various engines, and if I remember correctly, the stock 70s truck engines were at around 190hp. Pretty sad for an 8 banger Tim

Or if you have some extra $$$, you could go with this and not worry about alternator mounts at all!! Barrett Engineering introduces an innovative new concept for the electrical demands of Racing Professionals. An alternator that is totally housed under the water pump pulley, drawing less than 1/3 HP to produce 16 volts at 15 amps, and will not interfere with other electrical equipment. Very trick, but $500! , but you do get a great quality water pump AND a great alternator! Tim

Rick, Although I can't give any real specifics, I had a similar situation: My 71 truck (same heads as yours probably) was a real dog. I replaced the heads (Vortecs) and the inlet manifold (had to with the vortecs) and the L98 grind cam. HUGE difference. Those truck heads breathe about as well as a brick! The vortecs are definitely good bang for the buck!! Tim

Now if someone can supply a link on how to modify the LT1 harness to stand alone, they will be my God Tim