Tim240z

Try Pete's site for the ultimate, or mine, but my inspiration was from Pete Timh

This is actually documentation of a Vega LT1 conversion, but there is some really good info: LT1 in a Vega Tim

Nah, They're all the same from 70-78. Only diffence is the vents AFAIK. Tim

Harbor freight has one on sale now for under $100. Check out their site. Tim

James, Any luck yet? If not, check for spark at each plug. Also check for fuel. Remember: you need three things to start a car: Compression, spark and fuel. If you have those three, it will start (may not run, but will start), so go back to the basics. Tim

above post edited (italics).I contradicted myself....sorry. Take that and and and that Tim

The mounts are from the 69 thru 72 chevy trucks. I used the extra set I have for my 71 Cheyenne 20. Tim

Andrew, What are the specs on those headers? Are they S&S units? BTW Is that a ford Sierra in the driveway (XR4Ti)? Do you like it? Tim

Man, Ryan....that really sucks!!!! I'm not at all religious, but my thoughts and best wishes go out to you and your partner. Sorry about all the bad events! Tim

I just put my LT1 in too. I found that the pass. side exh. manifold doesn't fit! Does yours? I have a T56, but I don't think that makes much difference. Do you have a solution for your harness yet? Are you going to make it stand alone yourself, send it to someone to have it done, or buy the painless kit? What about all the water (coolant) plumbing. On my Camaro (94 LT1) engine, there was about 4 tubes going to the stock radiator. The radiator that I'm using only has the normal two. Let me know if you get your manifolds to fit. Thanks, Tim

Man you should try the R230 by yourself....bench press method...It's really fun!! Tim

AWWWWWWW, PLEEEEEEEEZE try to find it, PLEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEZZZZZZZZZZZZZZE Thanks, Tim

K_C, I am running a T56. There are several coolant tubes that come from the engine to the radiator. One from the 'steam' tube from the back of the heads.(one is joined to the driver's side main coolant hose). One from the throttlebody idle control valve (which I have heard that I can just cap off and not have hot coolant raising the temp of the air charge) And one from the oil cooler (engine) which is a water to oil cooler that is sandwiched between the block and the oil filter. This one should be easy to reconfigure, esp. since I am not running a heater in the cab. It's the steam lines that I am mostly concerned about. BTW, I did pick up the hardcopy factory service manual from the dealership (2 very thick books), and have looked at the wiring diagrams, but they are not laid out in a very easy to follow manner. Are yours just electronic versions of the FSM? If not, I would really appreciate a copy? Thanks, Tim

I had the same problems. Replaced the master (twice, once with a reman. which lasted just over it's 1yr warranty period, and then a NEW one). That still didn't really solve the problem. I replaced the shoes with new ones, which I don't think was really necessary. Then I swapped the rear slave cylinders with the ones from my Hybrid (went to rear disks). That has solved the problem. Even though the originals ones didn't appear to be leaking, they must have been pulling in air, 'cause I would have to bleed the rears every 100 miles or so. Tim

Yeah, just the other day I saw a CHP car on the I-5....VOLVO!!! Blew me away! Tim

I think you are referring to the body joint on the pillar? There is some lead filler there. I know because when I rewelded the seam when I cut off my drip rails, the lead began to melt out. As for repairing it ?????? Maybe RacerX will chime in. TIm

Aux, Good choice in tires!! I have used Falkens almost exclusively for many years and will not change. I firmly believe that if you it aint broke don't fix it....I could go on and on (and I have in the past) about the virtues of the Falken brand!!!! Tim

Miles, In case you're still having alignment issues: A vehicle pulling to one side is caused by one of four things: 1: Dragging brakes on one side. 2: Camber difference of more than 1/2 degree from one side to the other. For instance, since your car is pulling to the right, you may have more negative camber on the left side compared to the right side. Sagging spring on one side can do this. 3: Caster difference of more than 1/2 a degree from one side to the next. On rwd cars, it's best to have a bit more caster on the right side to overcome road camber (a car will always pull a little to the right because of the 'crown' of the road), thus adding caster to compensate. This is not as much of an issue for fwd cars 'cause the drive of the wheels are pulling the car straight. 4: No tire is perfect. Many (most) times the contact patch is not perfectly level. If you get a set on the front that 'off' to the same side it can make a DRASTIC difference. Try swapping the wheels on the front left to right. Toe has no effect on vehicle tracking straight, but will wear the hell out of your tires. So to summarize: Camber as close to equal as possible. Caster a little more positive on the RIGHT front. Toe a little positive (about 1.5-2mm toe in). Always have your alignment checked with you sitting in the car. If the shop has issues with this (some do for some reason), go somewhere else. Any alignment tech worth his salt will agree that some weight in the driver's seat is appropriate. I used to use bags of sand (25kg each). This is the factory correct way to do BMWs, Mercedes etc. Sorry to ramble....HTH Tim

Mike,This place has done most (if not all) of the pioneering on remote sensing equipment and especially on sunlight refraction by different criteria pollutants and their precusors. If anyone is interested in following up with some type of device to 'fool' the remote sensing equipment, I'm sure that someone at the Institute caould provide some of the technical data on how the remote sensing equipment functions. Desert research Institute in Reno NV Tim

BLK, There's always a way around the remote sensing equipment. As you probably know it uses lasers to measure the refraction of the beam through the exhaust gasses. If you bring your exhaust tailpipe to under the car (forward of the stock exit position which has it exiting rear of the rear bumper), and then make some type of diffusing arrangement with some sheetmetal at the tailpipe, the exhaust gasses will be so diluted by the time the laser 'sees' it that it will think that you're driving an electric vehicle. That's only necessary if your emissions are higher than they should be. This is however theoretical as I have never tried it, but I have it on fairly good authority that it will work. Tim

Keith, Great score man!!! You might want to read the post from a while back called "Desktop Dyno revisited". Grumpy suggested a good cam for my 350ci with Vortec heads. Not sure if it will apply equally to the 327, but maybe? Tim

Hey Guys, I guess that it's times like these that puts a lot of things in perspective. At the end of the day, if you have your health everything else is just fluff. Remember, a job is just a job, a car is just a car......we only have a limited time here on this spinning ball, so be happy and take things a minute at a time! I wish all you guys the best of luck and well wishes! Carpe Diem! Tim

Oh I agree completely!! However, the chances of getting a cop smog check request are significantly lower, and the CAP actually states that the remote sensing effort was not particularly effective, so I don't believe that SQAQMD will implement that again. While we're on the topic, DMV can, at their discretion, request that ANYONE, at random, go get smog checked. The good news that I am specifically refering to is that with the 73 and older exeption in place, a smog check is not going to be automatic. I am willing to take my chances with CHP. Tim

OK fellas...I've read through the entire mobile source section of the proposed CARB Clean Air Plan (CAP), and it seems fairly obvious that the exemption for 73 and older vehicles will remain . They are however considering rewriting the 1997 law, which would have made a 30 year rolling exemption beginning 2003, to repeal that exemption. So if you have a 73 and older car if you have a 74 and newer car Good news for me...egr and smog pump are getting violently 86'ed from my LT1 Tim

Try Velios in Gardena. Their prices are reasonable and the quality (at least in my experience) is good. Tim