Tim240z

It is a factory serviced unit, but still a really good price. I bought one (also factory recon) a couple of years ago (very similar to this one, but 230V instead of 110V) and am very happy with it. Here's the details...$199 Tim

It might just have been a problem specific to me. I would suggest that you get one (from Summit etc) and fit it and see if it leaks first, then worry about altering it. Get the best quality one you can, not one made in Taiwan or China (easier said than done!!). Try find one that is billet, made in USA, you won't regret paying the extra $$$. If nothing else you will have piece of mind, I worry about mine everytime I change the filter, wondering if 'this time it will start leaking again'. You may want to fit one that has the oil filter relocation kit as a 'one piece' system. That way you can move the oil filter to a location where it will be MUCH easier to change. Tim

redruM (Murder, I take it, from the Movie) I have the same motor in my 71 truck (from a 69), and the only problem I had was finding a spin on oil filter adapter (to get rid of the canister type) that sealed well (that was a mission and I ended up having to do some minor fabrication). But it is a '10' block and with the Vortec heads they make about 300+ hp easily and is very strong, it would be a demon in a car which weighs less than 1/2 of the truck's mass. Good luck and welcome. Tim

I did that by mistake when I test fitted my engine the first time. It tilts the engine over to one side quite a bit, which might not be a big problem with the LT1, but not ideal for sure.Tim

Ahem!

The only thing that might be a problem is that the JTR kit places the engine offset to the right side, that might make exhaust steering clearance a problem. Tim

Sounds like you're planning to do it Owen. Is it to impress all those little lovelys? Tim

Mike, What was the quality like on the fender you got from them? Tim

I was very interested in this, but with hours of searching could not find a web site for them. Also, the shipping to CA was going to put it out of reach for me (purchasing through JCWhitney), almost a grand all said and done.Plus I believe it needs alot of cleanup work. Tim

Definitely have to pull it. I seem to remember that the very early Zs had a different mustache bar, but I'm sure that any diff from 70 to 78 will do.(later one will be R200, upgrade?) Maybe grab the mustache bar also. Tim

Better test would be to hold both half shafts still and see how much play is on the driveshaft. Most likely the crownwheel and pinion are just worn out. Just go to the junkyard and pop another one in. Tim

See for yourself: web page Tim

Haven't ever heard of them, but they are 10 minutes from my house!!! Might need to go and check them out. Tim

Dude, check out the other post on the MSA show...there's mad pictures there. Tim

If he doesn't chime in here, drop Dave (KC6WFS) an email. I welded up his R180 for him, but I know that I would never be able to put up with a welded diff as a daily driver. I drove it around the block and it already started to bug me, the chirping of the inside tire going around corners. Did lay nice even black lines on the road though!! Tim

Craig, I originally began my project with a carbed sbc and 200 4R tranny. I cut out the stock crossmember/tranny mount in the tunnel and smoothed out the area. I slotted the front crossmember stock engine mount holes (per JTR) and dropped in the engine and tranny. I didn't take it out again until I decided to go with the LT1. Even then, with the tranny mount that I fabbed for the auto, I found that it fit with the T56, and the tunnel needed no pounding to accept the 6 speed. So in answer to your question, I would say that with the correct planning initially, it should not be necessary to have to yo-yo your engine/tranny in and out. Tim

Bill, as long as you like it, who gives a flying fk what the rest of us punters think.....enjoy your ride, man. Tim

The stock manifolds will not work. Driver's side maybe, but definitely not pass. side. Block huggers will work, but pass.side tends to foul with knock sensor. I am having some custom Tri Y s made for mine. Tim

Bill, You did say honest didn't you?! I love the look from the front, and the wheels really grab the visual, but I never did like the 'raised wing' look. That said, it looks better on your car than I've seen on other cars. If my car turns out half as nicely, I'll be happy. Great job, something to be really proud of. Kudos, Tim

Na, I don't want generic flex hosing. I either want a molded hose from another car that fits well, or some aluminum tubing to join two lengths of tubing that make it fit. Tim BTW... cool reverse cooling system web page and another

Anyone have some part numbers on some hoses that will work with the LT1 (94) with a Camaro (JTR) radiator? Alternatively, anyone know where I can get some aluminum tubing, you know the stuff that is flared on each end to join two rubber hoses together? Thanks, Tim BTW, I did do a search and found nothing.

Here's one for you guys:(do I see rice in there LOL) Tim

Yeah Man!! That picture doesn't even do it justice. That thing is sweet and has all kinds of rubber/road contact patch....definitely one of my absolute favourites at the show!! Tim

Dude, I'm married, not dead . Besides, just because I have a meal at home, it doesn't mean I can't look at the menu!! but I'm not showering with my car lol Tim

Owen needs some human nookie , he's getting way to involved with his car! Tim