Tim240z

Is this what you're talking about Scottie? Link to pic. If those will fit the Z engine bay....I'm in....How much $$$$$? Tim

Scottie,Yes, obviously this is a deal that is difficult to pass up. I had assumed since I didn't hear from you or Mike, that the engine sold at the swap meet. Thanksfor the all the consideration . I think that the shipping from Fla. would have been a deal killer though Tim

Nah, Still air in the master! Try putting the tube that's on the furtherest caliper in some fluid and keep bleeding (with your missus topping up the master). Could be that the master doesn't push enough fluid for the calipers, too....Takes more fluid to move calipers than drum slave cylinders. Tim

Well, after all the talk lately about CARB proposing to delete the smog exemptions I started looking around for another engine (the one I have is out of a 69 Truck). Well, I got a LT1 with T56 and all the goodies for $1400. It's still in it's host Camaro so I fired it up...no smoke....purrs like a kitten (actually lion cub). Could not drive it (parked in a shop surrounded by blueovals), but I put it in gear with the brake on and it seemed ok. I'm really stoked .....going back on Sat. to pull it out. Tim

Nion, Looking good!! I put in a litle hatch on my cover plate to access the filler. I am using sheet metal screws to hold down the main cover piece and then I am going to use a latch from the stock tool hatch lid (the two little cubby holes behind the seats on the rear deck - you can see them at the top of the picture) to hold down the the filler access plate. BTW...I undid the stitching to the luggage straps and took off the little metal mounting tabs. I washed the webbing and then dyed them black with some clothes dye that I had the little woman pick up from the drug store (Rite Aid I think). I then dipped the mounting tabs in Plasti-Coat (after buffing all the rust off of them with a wire brush (drill mounted). Then I had a local taylor shop restitch them. They look BRAND new!!! Keith, My box was made in three pieces, main piece was cut and bent into a U to create the cradle (width wise in the car), then two front and back pieces were bent to have flaps that mounted to the main cradle. I can give specific measurements offline if you like...drop me an email. There's a bunch more pics of it on my old yahoo site. Tim

Well since it seems this post/question is getting little attention, I'll throw my 2c in. I really think that it will be ok. On the stock 240Z, the water temp wire is part of the little harness that runs along with the coil/distributor wiring, and runs right along side the coil. So although I don't know if the extra output of a HP coil will make any difference, I would think, probably not. Maybe just try it, see what temp reads you get, then bypass with a temporary wire, through the window or something, and see if the reading is any different. Hope this helps, Tim

Nah, I don't think this project will be THAT difficult!!, just time consuming. Take out all of the interior pieces (at least the stuff on the floor. Cut out the 'tunnel' area and up around the firewall. Drop the V8 and trans in for placement/fit and fab in new sheetmetal aroung the engine/tranny. You may have to change the seats for smaller ones depending on the finished size of the tunnel. Use a narrowed live axle for the rear with a 4-link setup (again more cutting and fabbing of sheetmetal and strengthening of the mounting points for the axle). This is a very ambitious project, so just make sure your saving account is fat and that you don't run out of motivation through the frustrating times (there will be A LOT of those!!). I would suggest (since it seems like your experience level may not be up to the task....not to say that you're not smart and innovative)that you start with a more 'simple' project, like a car that's already set up for RWD. just my 2c. Ya know, I've been wondering about a GN-T in a miata Tim

JT, This was discussed a while back. Here's the post. My pics aren't showing up anymore, so just go to my site if you want to see any. Scroll down to the bottom of the page. Tim

Can you say "woody"!! Looks Niiiiiiiiiiiice. Tim

Maybe Dave (KC6WFS) will chime in here....he's using a stock Z radiator in his ride with an aftermarket puller-type electric fan. That sucker doesn't overheat, even when gunning it on the freeway and then coming to a dead stop in bumper to bumper traffic on a pretty warm day. Tim

I based mine on Pete's discription. Have some pics on my site too. Tim

Dave, If I didn't know that you are married........ Tim

BTW....those Falkens are NICE tires..I have run them on several cars for years! Great performance and mileage.....best bang for the buck out there. Sorry to go off topic. Tim

I don't think that the sub frames alone will stop the unibody flexing, esp. with that kinda HP. My advise is that if you are going to drive it hard, and ESP. if you plan to do it eventually....do it NOW! Tim

Bio... Sounds good, however, is that fuel formulated for CA? CA gets a special blend that no other state gets. Also, the sulfur in the fuel would create SOx (oxides of sulfur, SO2, SO3 etc)as a combusion byproduct, and that is not really one of the pollutants of concern for mobile sources (at least small spark combustion engines), Rather NOx, CO and Hydrocarbons. If the new formula is only a function of Sulfur content, then I doubt that it will be much help out here. Also, another concern that CARB has is fugitive hydrocarbon emissions from the crankcase (hense the introduction of the PCV valve many years ago) and from the fuel system (breathing losses), hense the use of vapour canisters and the like. Hopefully I am wrong, but............. Tim

Try tapping on them with a wrench. As hard as possible without damaging it. Sometimes this breaks the treads loose. If all else fails, take the fittings off down stream if those are easier then take the tubes off the master with it out of the car where yo can get to things easier. Tim

Ron, While you're at it, why not just do sub frame connectors? Not too difficult. Tim

While I tend to agree in priciple to your argument, keep in mind (esp. here in CA where we have the only Extreme Non-Attainment Air Basin in the Country), when Large Sources are built they have to buy credits from other companies that have reduced their emissions. Anyway, my point being....just keep in mind that when you bash big industry, remember how it is that you can switch on your lights, pump your gas, cook your food and buy the products you want. Trust me, and I'm sure others can back this up, the amount of time and money that industry spends ensuring compliance with air regulations (Federal and Local) would boggle your mind!!Ok, I'll get off my soap box now. Tim

Aren't your registration and vehicle tax fees based on the vehicle weight? Will this not drastically increase your annual payments?Tim

Guys, This Plan has been formulated in concert with EPA Region IX, so the Feds are behind this one. I don't think that local Government is going to have that much to say about it. I think that if you all feel really strongly about this (which you should), the best bet is to sit in on the upcoming workshops which CARB is hosting. They are going to be 'tele-conferenced' from several locations, so you should be able to sit in on at least one! Remember, this Plan is not set in stone yet as it hasn't gone throught the public comment phase. If you can, get some business owners to make some objections at the workshops, that carries a lot of weight. The battle is not lost, and it is NOT out of the question for several paragraphs to be ammended or deleted from this plan!! The public comment phase is there for a reason!!!.....for y'all to comment, so take part in the democratic process and change things!! Especially you guys in Sacramento!!!!! I will be there!!, and I don't even have voting rights! Tim

Here's the URL for the page on CARB's site. You'll want to go directly to the 'mobile sources' section. This is BRAND new stuff, the only reason I know about it is because I was at an Air Quality conference in Reno last week and a rep. from CARB was there. BTW, I'm not sure if the interpretation of the above paragraph is that all vehicles prior to '74 will now be tested, or if the rolling average rule will be scrapped only, which would mean that the existing 73 and older vehicles will NOT be subject to the proposed changes. I fully intend to attend the next CARB workshop (mainly for the stationary source issues) and will report back. Tim

California Air Resources Board (CARB) unveiled on Friday the details of the proposed new Clean Air Plan. This effects mobile and stationary sources to include airplanes, ships and recreational water craft and of course on and off highways vehicles. Of particular note is the proposal to scrap the existing exemption of pre-1974 vehicles from smog check testing. Here is an exerpt from the Plan: (Smog Nazis stike again)!! Tim

It's the crank which determines which damper to use. The 350 crank is internally balanced, so you would use a 350 damper. Tim

I'm with Mike on this one. GM has several crate motors which are as close to 'turn key' as one can get. They come with warranties and you are backed by a huge company, who will want to protect their reputation, so your satisfaction will concern them. Also, you can order one from your local dealer, so shipping won't be an issue, and you'll have a real life person to complain to if you run into any problems down the road. Check out places like Scoggin Dickey and the like. Tim

Also, Check to see if your door rubbers are in good shape. The door is meant to rest against them when closed and if the rubbers are shot, no matter how tightly the latch mechanism is adjusted the door will still rattle. Tim