260DET

Is that a RB30 block with a RB25 head? Because the stock RB30 is a single cam. Nice work and a credit to you, even though I'm not a straightline fan

It sometimes help to write the problem down, apparently Anyway, the solution in my situation is to mount the oil pressure switch directly into the block oil gallery. Thats the switch which operates the valve, it comes with a big clunky brass inline adaptor which is now not going to be used. Saved some weight and ended up with a more compact installation.

Anticipating space problems I got the smallest model and the you beaut EPC electric valve. The main oil gallery in the engine block has been tapped as the connecting point, it really was the only practical option. Anyway it turns out that the EPC electric valve is a big brass lump of a thing that looks like it is made for some industrial application where weight and bulk are irrelevant. The Accusump reservoir can be fitted in but there is no space for the EPC valve in the proximity. Other than use a compact manual valve and so lose the pressure regulating feature of the EPC I can't think of a practical solution to the problem. Car will be driven on the road a bit but has been primarly built to do circuit racing.

Like the cage design Frank, nice work. You may be able to do John C's gusset and still be FIA legal, the FIA equivalent in AU usually allows sensible additions to approved designs but basically its up to the certifing inspector. That gusset is quite a common feature in AU, worth doing. EDIT Have seen that gusset on FIA spec cages in S30's.

Can you get them bored and resleeved in the US? This service is available in AU using a SS liner, handy too if you want to change the ID a bit.

+1

FJ20ET.

Yeh well my S14 suspension swap is a bit of unknown territory and until the car gets on the track, who knows? But Frank's modding of the stock rear suspension geometry is much more relevant to 99.9% of owners and much more practical than swapping the whole suspension for something else. On that point I'm fairly sure that there is info around on geometry changes to the similar 510/1600 rear suspension. As well as of course the BMW stuff.

The 510 was rallied extensively so there is/was a lot of info around on how to beef the suspension up, etc. Unless you know a fair bit about suspension geometry etc I'd keep the original suspension rather than put something else in, there should be books around specifically on the 510.

What would be good is info on S130 engine changes, suspension mods, etc. Not just about someone who went on a shopping spree but hard tech info eg changing the suspension arm pickup points on the rear suspension. Also tech info on racing S130's, past and present. There is plenty of chat around about new wheels and other off the shelf items, that fine, but bugger all about what I've mentioned above.

That looks good but if you don't mind me saying with all the welding it looks like it would be expensive to make and overly heavy. For example, with the vertical plate that the hub carrier bolts to I'd use thinner metal and bend the bottom in, rather than weld on an additional piece of metal, the piece at the inner bottom. The bend could then be gusseted. There are a couple of other things there but one will do for now, best of luck with the venture

For the JDM single turbo VG30DET engine, the overhaul gasket set part number is 10101-71V28. Includes DET exclusives like the plenum gasket.

A lot of the Skyline and Z32 guys swear by Redline Lightweight Shockproof to improve shifting and help preserve the syncros. I think Redline recommend MT90 but apparently LS is the go for hard working big Nissan boxes.

On the project car I used an adjustable angle gauge* lining it by eye with the ground level and strut angle from the side. Just moved the top of the strut forward/back until it lay at the required angle, 8 degrees. Any difference of a degree or two is quite noticeable after some practice so that method should be good enough to get a reference point when fitting adjustable tops. * don't know the correct name for the gauge, it has two arms that pivot in relation to each other, with a scale marked in degrees. Its just a simple hand tool.

Gold, hard copy of this page going into my suspension Folder of Knowledge

Front/rear weight can be done on drive on scales, did mine at a quarry where they weighed trucks, a six pack was all it took Just drive the car half on/half off to measure each end. Of course corner scales are better. Stock S30 is ~50:50 weight distribution.

So with that sort of weight orientated platform you have a basic setup? Tune it with ARB's? Its just that with a lot of HP to me the emphasis shifts to getting power down. Where wider rear tyres may or may not balance out the setup.

Love the compactness of the VG30E, the only real reason I went for the extra bulk and complexity of a VG30DET is it will rev to 8K. Have you got any idea BU of what the car's weight distribution will be with that setup? Because you may end up arse heavy the way it is. Anyway ita a great project, keep us informed eh.

From memory John's S30 , the ROD, had a stiffened chassis, which is essential if you want to get serious. The only other comment concerns the suspension type, S30 has strut suspension all round, which like all suspension types has its own basic characteristics eg with strut suspension camber change is directly proportional to body roll.

My guess is that the stamp is on the back of the spoiler, must say that the style does not grab me though.

In my experience a rear ARB equipped S30 can step out without warning when being pushed hard or when the road is wet. Some things to look at: remove the rear ARB or else use a light one ~15mm in diameter, more bump on the rear dampers, a touch of negative camber and neutral toe or even a mm of toe in. Then there is understeer. Mine was sorted by a combination of some front toe out, wider front track, damper adjustment and 3 degrees negative camber. Having said all that I bet someone comes along now and says they have had no under/oversteer problems. Depends how hard you drive mate

Yeh, the trend where I am is towards softer springs to give better grip, particularly at the rear with a lot of power. Maybe heavier springs at the rear than 250's and no ARB?

Yeh, had to cut mine too even though it was still fairly flexible.

Well Cary you've been there, practical experience > theory. Have you had any problems with front brake lockups, particularly when trail braking?

Don't know about zero droop for production type cars but near zero droop seems to be worth a try. The (my) theory is that with a production car you will always get some roll, some would say the suspension should be soft enough to allow some roll, unlike an open wheel race car. So with a production type car with zero droop even on a dead smooth circuit one front wheel would be off the ground a lot. On the heavy front springs comment, the 280ZX project car will have 400 pound front, 250 rear, to start with anyway. With 4-500whp and a helical LSD I want to wedge weight onto the inside rear wheel in a corner. NB those spring rates are around the same as rates at the wheel. Does this all make sense or am I talking ♥♥♥♥