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260DET

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Everything posted by 260DET

  1. The vents on that black S30 are just perfect, beautiful job.
  2. Thinking about using one of these engine oil accumulators on the project car's VG30DET engine. Have fitted a (better) DETT oil pickup and sump and done a couple of little mods to the sump itself but am still concerned that the engine may momentarily drop oil pressure on the race track. An accumulator will also add a bit more oil capacity too. See details here http://store.summitracing.com/egnsearch.asp?N=400105+300033+115&autoview=sku So what is the experience with these, the cheapest one seems OK for what I need. Do they make a difference in actual use?
  3. No not your doors Mike, no gender preference issues there
  4. Got hold of a copy of the 280ZX design book, will scan a few pages if possible in a new topic. You all may be surprised at the options the designers considered, quarter windows of some sort would be essential for safety so thats a given, hidden door handles are gay IMHO, round tailights were on the list of options considered, truly
  5. OK, starting right at the back - steel bumper (replace with aluminium/f'glass substitute), metal tail light retaining plates, metal number plate lights (use plastic), radio antenna and wiring. Get the idea?
  6. Yeh, 30 spline 6 bolt CV type output shafts, which came from a GTR with a clutch type LSD. May be suitable for a big power CV axle conversion in a S30?
  7. Alternative sources for helical centers are the S15 manuals and late GTR's, don't know which model GTR's or if S15's in all markets have them. Anyway I got one the other day for the project car so we'll see how it stands up.
  8. S30 two seater? 2+2 booster is bigger, bolts straight on.
  9. Fit a decent aftermarket ECU and use it to direct fire LS coils. VG30DET and VG30DETT are basically the same motor, a few minor differences. But you may mean VG30ET?
  10. There is always more. That boxed bit is neat, now run some RHS or SHS from front to back along the sills/rockers against the pinch weld visible in the pics. At the front where the sill ends, run it at an angle to the tension rod cups. At the back where the sill ends, cap the RHS or SHS with a vertical piece going up inside the inner guard. Tie all that in with the cage main hoop leg bases. At the very least you won't have to worry about jacking points any more
  11. Yeh I found the factory specs too loose, used to get pad knock off on the track. Using Slick 50 multipurpose grease (good American product) in the bearings I found tightening it right up but with virtually no preload was the go. Bearings never wore out, on examination no sign of distress or over heating.
  12. Leave them just a bit loose so the rubber bushes can center themselves when the car is dropped down to its normal ride height with the wheels on the ground. Then tighten them up to the correct torque, then drive. Or else leave the car up so you can work under it, then set the suspension as it will be at its normal ride height. Then tighten.
  13. They are getting short in AU too, I had a spare engine but most of the bits have been sold separately. Great engine, a bit tall and heavy but built like a brick shisenhouse
  14. There is a 4WD 2+2 in Australia, has a Chev V8 in it from memory. No link or futher info sorry, saw a video of it doing a hillclimb, you may be able to search that. EDIT Ah yes, the Mackrell Z, thats it, see boy form oz's earlier post.
  15. Thats what you call filling the wheel wells up I'm a fan of the fat stock look, you've got it.
  16. Its an official Nissan publication on the design and development of the 280ZX, I don't have a copy but have read it, very interesting, used copies come up for sale occasionally. Remember when the car was designed, styles and tastes change, plus there is individual taste. Personally I don't mind visible door handles and fuel caps, for example.
  17. Pics of the half cage in my project ZX have been posted before, may give you some ideas, go to the gallery in my website, link below.
  18. If there is nothing in the way shorter steering arms will give you more turn angle. Pics of drift car?
  19. From the Nissan book on designing the 280ZX, the distinctive rear quarter windows were a late addition to several other styles considered at the time. Think they look great, so much better than the +2 style windows, sorry +2'ers. Its all personal preference of course but as the photochops here show, the basic body shape is not bad for an end of the 70's design, even if some of the detail is questionable.
  20. Mine is a 280ZX (S130) though, not a S30, which is why it wasn't mentioned. The tension rods on both the 280ZX and the S13/14/15 go forward, not back as on the S30. Using the S13/14/15 entire front suspension assembly on a S30 would require modification in regard to the tension rods at least, which then defeats the original purpose doesn't it My site is updated every now and then with pics of the 280ZX that show significant progress.
  21. Might try that, but leave the rest of the chrome trim shiny. Do it with some paint that can be easily removed if it looks off. Nice car by the way.
  22. Yeh its a bit riced up but its good to see someone put some effort into the 280ZX. MoTec M4 eh, thats usually used on a four cylinder engine, if sequential injection is required anyway.
  23. You could look at a GTR or Z32 rear subframe Matthew, they have a similar suspension setup to the S13, S14 is a bit different but not much. Nice big rear brakes on the GTR and Z32. Don't know the various dimensions of the subs mounting points to the body, it may be that one would fit the S30 better than another, I'm assuming that they are not all the same.
  24. Using the Supra stuff will give you a nice wide track, five stud wheels, power steering, modern geometry, big brakes........ If you do it I'm sure there would be lots of interest here.
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