260DET

Like the idea of an aftermarket ECU controlling it via a solenoid, triggered by set revs or MAP or a combination of both, manual control could be a PITA.

Thats my question too but can't think of any answer other than yours.

Yeh, both the X and M have angled legs though

For the front maybe a fully subframe mounted double A arm suspensing and steering setup? If there is such a late model setup with a good reputation. Maybe a Mazda RX7 or MX5/Miata? Late model Supra? Other than that its use another strut setup or mix and match parts to make a hybrid. There has been a bit of discussion at times about that option, also about custom made double A arm setups.

Below is an alternative, note how the cage is tagged into the body to give extra rigidity too. Gives excellent rear vision that arrangement. Decided not to go for a full cage for various reasons but the basis for one is there.

There is a vent there so that would be covered up, don't know how much venting it does though. I'm going to do something, maybe some slotted body coloured metal screwed into place?

Torsion bars, anti roll bars are long bars/tubes.

Had the same problem at the same point with my S30 but it had a fair bit of caster at the time, it had adjustable tension rods so easily fixed.

Rear subframe bushes are probably buggered, yeh LSD would be good, check why the rear suspension is stiff, check springs and dampers, that will do for a start. All relevant to rear end grip and stability.

Interesting stuff, thanks to all the contributors.

Pic below shows one way to make an adjustable strut tower bar without using rod ends. If its not clear in the pic, two fine thread big studs (12mm?) were crimped and welded into each end of the oval tube. Each stud end then went into a hole in a bracket on top of the strut tower, with nuts either side of the bracket. Adjust to suit and lock up the nuts tight. In use the nuts never loosened, I thought they may due to movement. With the 280ZX project the strut tower brace is triangulated back to the firewall and bolts to the strut towers vertically and horizontally, using captive nuts welded inside the towers. There is no adjustment, it was all made to fit on the car prior to painting it, no pics yet.

Your rear spoiler and my instrument panel for the win eh Guy. Big holes cut with hole saws first, then the whole thing was roughly cut with an angle grinder using a thin cutting disc lubed with soap. Then on to the bench grinder lubed with kerosene so it didn't block up. Then hand finished, files, emery paper. Took a bit of time but not that long. Had to use a cut down spare original panel as a template to mark the aluminium out for cutting though.

Green for turn indicators, top (bright) red for oil pressure, lower red for brakes, amber for low fuel, blue for headlight high beam. The ZX is being totally rebuilt so doing the dash is just another job, but its not too difficult, rewiring the whole car has definately got my attention though.

Maybe not as much effort has gone into developing IRS for drag racing? For example, bit of toe in at the rear usually helps stability, easy to adjust on IRS, you don't need a 100 ton press to bend the diff housing

Seeing a couple of other restorers posted pics of their panels a while ago, here is a pic of mine, just finished. Basically its an aluminium panel cut to shape with holes for the instruments and lights, then powder coated for a hopefully durable finish. The new panel is attached to the modified original panel by SS screws rather than glue. With a 300kph speedo its the fastest S130 panel in the South

Actually I know bugger all about drag racing, but is there any advantage with an independant rear there at all? More even weight distribution to the tyres when the body twists under torque?

Yeh, the point of having pivot joints in a brace which is supposed to eliminate flex and movement as much as possible escapes me.

I just knew someone would ask First of all it was 'virtually eliminate camber change' not eliminate it completely, thats impossible with semi trailing arms as you indicate. So, reduce camber change to the point where it is not a crucial issue, some relevant comment here http://e30m3performance.com/tech_articles/susp-tech/rear_curves/index.htm Solid mount the rear subframe, eliminate flex in the suspension bushes as far as possible, appropriate dampers and springs.

It seems important to do everything possible to force air through the radiator, its location should maximumise that. This involves sealing around it so the air cannot bypass it, and, facilitating air exit flow behind the radiator.

Re the mounting of strut bars. http://forums.hybridz.org/showthread.php?p=733724#post733724

You mean not the best idea?

Massaging the guard may be an option, done carefully the paint should not be damaged. Use a curved piece of wood levering off the tyre and roll it along the guard where its hitting. Pics of Z?

Semi trailing arm suspension can be modified to virtually eliminate camber change for traction purposes. Its not that difficult either, should be a lot cheaper than replacing the entire rear end.

Thanks Ron, hope Wolf are treating you well.

But they seem to require a replacement of the stock cylinder liners, otherwise blown head gaskets. Although it seems impossible to get sound first hand info on them. And the weight, are they really that much lighter than a twin cam VG with its surplus removed?