MAG58

If it's a big white with red marker 10-12ga wire it's the main feed to the fuse panel under the center console. That's what feeds the fuse box and each individual line is fused, I'm not sure if I'd see the point of a fuse on that wire.

Those things are huge, aren't they? With the Iron block and head how much does that beast weigh?

#3 should be a sizing by the factory for the correct piston. When the factory machined the block they bored it to 86mm..... ish. So after it was bored the bore was measured and a little number was stamped on the deck next to the piston, that is the size piston they put in from the factory. my F54/P79 had four 23's and two 54's.

He MAY have fabricated some things, and there is a SLIGHT possibility that at one point he made something that never existed before... and there is a rumor that 1 Fast Z is an EXTREMELY competent machinist and fabricator... Could just be rumor though....

Hmm. They look a lot like Revo's that are really common with classic Mini's.

I'll agree with that, the VG is, in my opinion, the most under rated motor Nissan has made. They set a majority of their records and won a bunch of races on that platform for a reason: It's a good motor. 400 hp shouldn't be a problem with any of those motors (VH or VG included) and I'm quite sure that 50hp/cylinder shouldn't hurt a stock nissan VH45. All that said, the more power you try and force through a smaller motor means that it's going to be more labor intensive. That's just my .02

There should be a flange that goes from the 1310 joint to the rear. I'm running an L28, but when my T5 shaft joints went out, they just fabbed one up to use standard Spicer U-Joints. In this instance, it was because it was cheaper. It's bigger but there are TONS of Fords and Chevy's that use that U Joint and they had a flange there that went from that to my T5 R200 Flange. Now I have a rebuildable joint and I'm confident that I can go to pretty much any auto parts store around and they'll have it in stock.

What all do you know about it? The cars like all MB's usually last until Hell Freezes over and still starts up afterwards. Most of these were good cars from what I've seen, though there were a few problems. Ironically in 86 there was a redesign of the R107 platform. This includes bigger brakes and heavier suspension from the MB sedans. It is good to note a few of the problems with the car though. The engine wiring loom for most MB's prior to the late 90's do have tendencies to go bad so that will need to be checked. The auto's in the cars are usually well up to snuff for the kind of driving this car was designed for, but sometimes can get neglected so just check for good feel and no burnt oil. Same as for any auto really. These cars are great for freeway cruising and have M117's which are good for duty as a DD and super tall ratio's for freeway driving (IIRC depending on the model it's between 2.72 and 2.27?). Though I'm probably a little biased...

I think I'm going disagree here. If you're using the VK45DE I think it will be about equal as far as being a PITA. They're roughly the same dimensions and since everything is already custom from the mounts to the tranny adaptor (a few companies are starting to bite and make adaptors for it, I believe, either way the down under would be the best place to look), and NA it'll have a little more go. The VK56 would be infinitely more difficult since it's stuffing a longer and taller motor in the same hole.

What matters to you with motor selection? If it's all about that big number at the very end of the graph than by all means get the 2J motor, it's practically designed for it. If you're looking for lots of power under the curve and still want a big number, well a 6 may not be for you. If you want a lighter weight motor (if you look at all the engine weights here the 2J is a boat anchor plus a few pounds) than I'd go with the RB. Ultimately it's all about how you build it but In my opinion you see 2J's in more drag racing and RB's in more road racing applications for a reason...

I'm going to have to agree here, the car was made in the 70's, I feel that slapping on wheels with rubber band tires attached not only reduces performance with all that unsprung weight, but also just looks odd.

Back to the topic at hand though, I think that the EcoBoost motor has a chance, but as always, if the aftermarket doesn't support it will die in the water. As far as great 4cyl's are concerned, there are very few motors I would consider "Great". The Duratec and 4AGE because of formula atlantic work (though the 4A is a little down on displacement), the 3S-GTE due to it's rally and road race history, the BMW S14 and the Cosworth 4 cylinders. I really don't think the Mitsu 4G would really even compare (flame suit on) because in my experience, they'll put out pretty numbers yes, but I like motors with powerbands that don't like something like ... _____/ But that's just me. I think the ecoboost may have a chance, but it will probably fall the same way as the Ecotec. They could both be great motors (the Ecotec probably has the chance to be legendary) but are going to be plagued with the cost savings that is the American car company and see partially counterbalanced, cast cranks which will put big HP numbers out of the range of alot of people due to the last of a decent forged piece.

Well, this is what prompted my T5 rebuild: On the 5th gear synchro, there is a little metal plate that holds the 3 keys in to keep the tranny from engaging when it's not supposed to. One of the little springs broke and it allowed one of the keys to slide back to hit the metal tab that holds it on (for the 5th gear) this pushed that little plate out until the bearing on the rear of the countershaft chewed it to pieces. The little keys then came out and went where they pleased and the 5th gear slider got to do pretty much what it wanted until my box ate it, though this happend at 10 mph. Scary stuff. Couldn't imagine 60.

How long has the car you pulled the motor out of been sitting? If the valve train looks to be in order my best guess is stuck rings. When I pulled my Motor it was something like 144 125 32 150 152 141. I used a feeler gauge under the valves to see if there was a stuck valve (there would be more gap when the lobe is 180 deg out) and figured out all was good, pulled the head, no burned valves, dropped out the piston and saw that father time glued those things in there snug.

As much as those new Camaro's weigh, I'm quite positive a well worked power chair could beat it...

You wouldn't happen to have been in 5th had you?

Peanut M&M's. I'm quite sure they're so amazing that God himself has a bowl next to his lay-z-boy.... Spa or the Ring?

Oh dear, I never had time to get into that craze... I spent all my summers and after school hours in the schools auto shop...

oh God, this game? My litle brother plays >60hrs/week. He's Lvl 80 full spec Pallie... I thought Z obsessions were time consuming..

Wait a minute... are there two people in the prancing stallion? And are they arguing??? That's why he's behind, he brought his wife!

For those of you looking for more pictoral detail, this is a flicker of someone that did a nice entire rebuild on his M104.990 (3.2L) cylinder head, including the Mercedes fix for the infamous head gasket problem Mercedes is known for And the last picture of the turbo M104, I've talked to him personally as he lives about an hour west of me. That car hauls for a 4400lb beast. It runs right at 18psi on 93 octane. Completly stock block except for a shim to bring the motor to 9.2:1 comp. It's right at just north of 455 whp with peak torque right in the middle of his 6500rpm redline. IIRC he's been DDing the car for close to a year now with no problems besides having to go to the 722.6 V12 auto since it'll nuke the stock auto.

It won't be that hard, I'll have my pics up as soon as she gets out of machine shop jail but the biggest procedures that have to be undertaken to get this done is filling the coolant ports and re-cutting it and having the crank snout turned. Everything else can be done, I believe by your averageHBZer... On the other hand, which M104's do you guys find? If you can find one out of a 1992-1993 300-24 car (the 3.0L not the 2.8 or 3.2) I'd really like to get my hands on the entire motor, and they're few and far between in this part of the country.

Purple, but from california not chille... Pickles or cucumbers??

Would it work? Anything would work if you try hard enough. But when you have I/C Piping that long you tend to get less response out of the turbo since it's gotta get all that air moving and has to travel all that distance before the intake. But why not, try it!

Which Dizzy are you running? If you're running the origional points, here's how I wired it. B+12v to one side of the resistor other side of resistor to + side of coil. -Side of coil to breaker points.