srgunz

Chino I run the same set up as yours on the street. (240 with L28 motor) The first thing you need is to get that fuel pressure down to 3 psi. Nothing you will do will make any difference until that is done with mikunis. I have $600 worth of jets just to get mine set to were I want them. Even then you will get terrible mileage as I do. Mine is a weekend car only. I would never use it as a daily driver with gas prices now. These cars are way too old for daily drivers anyway.

I just put some poly bushings in the front control arms. They also came with a very sticky white grease. I think it may have been silicone grease. I thought I have seen a synthetic grease in tube gun form. Not sure. If so then that would be the best I think.

On my 240 we pulled the clock from it housing and installed a voltmeter. Then just connect the clock wires to the voltmeter. Works great.

Here is a GTO replica. It is not based on a 240Z though. It was built on a custom tube frame chassis.

I am in Sheboygan county. Plates are standard.

Has any body passed emissions with your tripple mikunis or webers? 72 240. Just got a notice to be tested before plate renewal. I have had the car for 28 years and this is the first time I have been required to have test. What they do is run a tail pipe test while the rear wheels are on a chassis dyno. They simulate city driving to include acceleration and deceleration. I do not think I have to add that there is no longer any smog equipment on the car. Went in dumpster 20 years ago. Sold the SU's also. I do have some leaner mikuni jets if that will help. Am I screwed?

I thought I was the only one with that problem. I have a 5 psi pump with the same holley regulator. It reads 0 psi and with the regulator wide open it reads about 1 psi. With the regulator wide open it also causes the carbs to run extremely rich. So it seems to be giving a false reading. Like yours the car runs great except when I cranked up the regulator thinking that was the problem. I emailed holly tech. to see if that spare port is ok for a guage. They said yes and that I must have a bad guage possibly. The guage is new as well as the pump and regulator. I have never heard of a fuel pressure guage being bad out of the box or even bad at all. I am stumped.

My draw really has me stumped. I pulled all fuses. Disconnected the starter solenoid ,the alternator and the regulator and the test light still shows a draw.

That was 2001 Jim Hall brought his cars to Road America. I crashed a party and got to speak to him that weekend. Super nice guy. Pictures here. http://www.autoextremist.com/vintage2001.html

Once the key and keyway get hammered for a while it will no longer stay tight. Check it close. If so you will need new pulley and key.

Get ahold of Sportscar Services over in Mequon. Find out what it is worth as is. They work on and race Lotus. If the rest of the car is ok, it is worth a lot more than 1K. You could resell and finish your project for free. IMO. Continental Autosports in Chicago would jump all over that car also.

I used that same design as Paul except it is an "L" shape instead of "U" shaped. Made from piece of 2in x 2in angle iron. Simple and quick fix. Plenty strong for a 6cyl. I have not taken a photo of it yet. Will try to do soon. Here it is.

I was in th AF myself for 4 years. Basic was in San Antonio from mid April to the end of June. Recruiter said I would be going in about 2 weeks after I signed. He called the next day and said things changed and you leave the next day! Prick. At that time you did not get a AFSC until you completed basic. Got sent to Lowry AFB in Denver for aircraft weapons school. No regrets here, it was the best time of my life. I still have airman friends from that time I still am in contact with. They also say the same thing.

John, pull the m/cyl, remove clip, washer and push rod from booster. Fish out reaction disc. from bottom of cannister. Glue the rubber disc to end of push rod and put back together. Should be ok then. I went thru this on mine. Yours acts exactly the same as mine did. I went thru this before there were any internet Z sites! What a bitch.

I was there Saturday and Sunday. Had a great time. Five 240Z race cars were entered. I go to all the vintage races there and a multi car crash is actually very rare. Happened on front straight just as starter was dropping the green. I know the guy with the orange boss 302 involved. He owns 3 of them all identical except for the numbers on the door. The 289 cobra was an origional. Ouch!

Funny thing you should say pedal returned to normal by itself. A similar situation just happened to me on this Thursday. Had the rear struts off and had everything put back together and bled the brakes on Thursday. The pedal was perfect. I always use Ford Motorcraft fuid. $3.95 a pint and 550F rated. After I rejet the carbs as well, I take it for a test drive. As I am backing out the drive, WTF, the pedal goes almost to the floor but had some brakes. I took it out anyway and about 5 minutes later I did a full throttle 1st thru 3rd gear. All of a sudden my pedal came back to normal again. I have driven the car all weekend with no further problems. My M/cyl is fairly new also with about 2000 miles on it. I am still figuring this one out as well.

I used these guys for a dent in one of my alum. alloy wheels. When it was done I could not tell. They have several locations. Mine was done in Illinois. There is one place in Miami. http://fixrim.com/loc.htm

For a street car I would leave on the swaybars you have. They should work great with the new set up. I added a heavy front bar to mine and ended up tearing the mounts right out of the frame. After I repaired it I put on a front bar off a 280Z. I also have a rear bar and like the set up very well with my Tokico springs and Koni shocks.

Also interesting. http://gwsuspension.com/

I just wasted my time watching a video game. Thanks.