srgunz

After more thinking, I wonder if putting the clutch disc in backwards would cause your problem.

Does the new differential have any gears in it? How can the drive shaft turn and not move?

My bad experience with them was when I ordered a rebuilt booster. When I opened the box I discovered that not only was it the wrong booster for a 72 but it looked liked they drove to the bone yard, and got a booster full of rust. It then looked like it was quickly painted over all the crud and shipped out. The paint was even still tacky when I recieved it. I quickly returned it for credit. I did not take a chance of reordering same. The point is how can any business show such poor quality control, lack of caring, poor attitude, sloppyness, poor service, inferior products, poor manners, lack of worker motivation, and lack of business sense. Quality and service brings repeat business and is its own best marketing tool. IMO. I now avoid them when possible.

The Konis I put in my 72 240 are 8641-1031 fronts and 8641-1032 rears. They adjust with a white knob from the top. Are these a discontinued part number also? I paid $107.55 each for these in the 1990's

I will pass this along if you were not aware. Upstate Daytona in New York has all his molds for sale. I got this info off the Club Cobra site. I don't know what it would take to purchase but it is a great kit. His name is Bill Connelly. http://www.daytona-coupe.com/

This is the best stuff ever for sealing gaps etc. Its called Duct Seal. Sold at Home Depot and other places in the electrical dept.

On my 72Z I thought at first it was exhaust fumes. It was actually gas fumes. I replaced all vent hoses on tank as well as the filler tube assy. The car is perfect now. I run my exhaust flush with end of bumper and no exh. fumes enter car either.

One more thing to point out on the 70 - 71 240Z brake master cyl. From 1972 on the master cyl. front and rear brake half is the reverse of the 70 and 71. Hooking the plumbing back the same will put the rear circuit to the front brakes and front circuit to back brakes. I think many people have theirs hooked up that way without ever noticing the difference. Some have swaped their lines to the m/cyl. front to rear and visa versa. I really am not sure if it matters other than the big reservoir would feed the rear brakes instead of the fronts.

I have seen a few broken stub axels over the years. They all had one thing in common. They were all using welded differentials for autoX or road race. My 2cents.

I have read many write ups for this upgrade and nobody has mentioned that the ZX master has a greater piston depth. So I do not get that at all. Perhaps they remove the spacer that is mounted between the master and booster on the 240Z's. It seems to me it is about the difference you are talking about. The later zx master has the single reservoir. Is that the one perhaps you are using?

Biggest complaint is poor tread wear on these tires. Also some complained about bad wet traction. See the customer reviews for this tire at Tire Rack site. After reading I am going with Falken tires instead.

Your symptoms are your booster reaction disc has fallen out of place. Trust me. I have been there myself and there was no posts about this problem several years ago when it happened to me. You must return the push rod length to its origional position when you put the disc back. If not you will have a big problem of brake lock up. http://forums.hybridz.org/showthread.php?t=70511&highlight=reaction+disc

I know a guy that had a turbo on his 240 that ran with a single SU carb. I think it was a Turbo Tom or Corky Bell set up. It was built before the ZX turbos were sold here. So I would guess it could be done.

I have a 72 with a 5 speed also. Anyway this exactly has happened to me a few times over the years. What always worked for me is to put fresh fluid in the master and slave. I have always done it myself just gravity bleeding it at the slave cyl. All the clutch disc has to do is just barely drag when released and it will show up on 2nd gear first. The others will work fine. The last time I bled, I also discovered the clutch pedal pin was worn. Put in a new one and is just like butter now. I learned this from the MG's and Triumphs I owned. Same exact problem. Anyhow try this first before doing anything drastic.

I was able to work on the F4C and D models while in the USAF. We also had to use external APU's, gas engine and the newer (at the time) turbine type. Those were fun to listen to starting up. They used to use the starter cartridges for training and alert practice. Lots of black smoke!

I don't know how your car even runs with those jets. You need a minimun of 57.5's. I went thru that with my L28. I have 60's in now but ran 57.5's for quite awhile. Mine runs best now at 1 full turn out. I think I have an extra set of 57.5's in the garage, I will check.

I helped fixing that same problem on a 78 Z. It turned out to be the pick up coil (module) under the distributer cap.