srgunz

From NHRA .com http://www.nhra.com/apcm/templates/news_template.asp?articleid=9915&zoneid=8

These are 17". I am not sure of width. Probably 7" I guess.

I get looks too. They say to themselves, "look at that over 50 guy driving a Datsun" HA!

Earlier you said your mains were 165's. Now they are said to be 190. Is that correct. Way too big. If your venturis are in fact 41, the car will be totally undrivable for the street. 41 is the largest that Mikuni makes. I recommend size 34 for the street. Then drop the size of the main and air jets. My mild L28 current runs the following. Venturi 34 Main 135 Air 180 Pilot 60

I have an E88 head with this camshaft. Does anybody have an idea as to manufacturer. I would like to have the specs. Thanks.

Are CCW safe for and approved for street use?

Not me even if they were free. 17 inch look like crap on a stock body. 15 inch wheels max. on a stock body Z car.

Last time I saw that was on a friends Hi-Po ford 289 with forged pistons and 4 down draft webbers. It was built with just too much bucket to cyl wall clearence. After that was corrected all was well.

What MGB was lacking and should do if reintroduced. http://www.grmotorsports.com/board/viewtopic.php?t=12108&sid=3cd399dd3c52361ce9c10caac55a03d6

Bracket on my 1972 is standard from factory. Looks different than your drawing. Plug and play. What year do you have?

Not in my case. I put a 78 5 speed in my 72 Z. I tried using my 4 speed shifter and could not engage 5th gear. 1 thru 4 worked great. We pulled the gearbox to inspect and all was perfect. I finally found a 5 speed shifter and saw it was different length below the pivot. I installed it and problem fixed.

This cut away photo will help you understand where that disc is located. It does sound like that is your problem. I am among the many this has happened to.

Here is that same one on my 72Z.

From Tokyo auto show 2005. http://www.autoweek.com/files/specials/2005_tokyo/gallerys/nissan_gtr/pages/01.htm

This Vette showed up at the open track event I was at this past weekend. Not a Datsun but thought you would appreciate the workmanship. Was extremely fast. Engine is 500+ci. I don't remember exactly the number.

There wasn't anything like this going on during my tour as a weapons loader in Air Force 30 years ago!

I got tipped off at a track event about Ford motorcraft fluid. 550F boil point. No fade and good price! $3.91 per 12oz. at your local dealership.

Never liked those long shank lug nuts. A pain to install the wheels. My minilites are like those but not quite as bad. IMO.

Yep. I saw that car at Road America a few years ago. Looks like a nightmare to service. I have a picture of it at the car show they held after the races that day in downtown Elkhart Lake. There were so many people I had no idea who the owner was.

I think yours is pretty level. My 240 looked that way too. A level on the bottom of the rocker panel showed it was level. For purposes of looks I cut a 1/2 coil off the fronts to better match the wheel openings. Either that, or like you said you can raise the rear. The reason the car looks that way now is because the front and rear wheel arches are not the same on a 240 even though they look the same.

So are the Datsun torque values dry values? Some people use lubricant, therefore I suspect they are overtourqing the bolts. What about anti-sieze on the threads. How does that affect the torque value? It seems to me after a few uses I would throw the bolts away and get new. What say you?

Vicky ( ZRush) over at classic Z car site just purchased one also. She may have some pictures of it in her album.

Yesterday I got 45 minutes of track time. My 240 has the 1978 5 speed and 4:11 rear. Anyway, after a few laps the trans. started to become harder and harder to upshift. 4th gear was espically hard to find. The shifter feel was less precise than normal. On the way home all was normal again. I wonder if the trans lube was overheated causing problems or a clutch problem. My clutch slave cyl is a little wet but not bad. I guess I will try a synthetic manual trans. oil. Anyone else notice this on the track? One thing about a hard road course run you find out right away where all your cars weakness are that you never find out on the street.

I have had the fronts apart several times and I cannot even remember the orientation of the bearing. On the rear there is a hard rubber spacer. MSA sells them. I accidently left mine out when replacing springs and had a lot of noise over bumps. I could not figure out why until I saw the spacers in my tool box!