srgunz

Have a great B'Day. I can only wish. I hardly remember my 40th. Gee, you were only 10 yrs old when I purchased my 240Z. I just talked to a guy today that races an ITS 240Z and he is 74 YRS OLD! Think of all the years you have to run track events and race.

I would have zero interest in that one. Now this one further down the page I would buy in a second if I did not have mine. http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/JDM-Widebody-Z_W0QQitemZ160003310369QQihZ006QQcategoryZ6187QQrdZ1QQcmdZViewItem

Two things to eliminate. Get underneath where the exhaust pipe is shown in your picture and give it a good wack with the heel of your hand and check if hitting on frame. (Mine had this) Next check spare tire well and see if anything is loose in there.

Remember your 60 amp service to the garage is 120 amps at 120volts. Plenty for most all residential garages.

I too think that a long term test is needed on the Datsun gearbox. I hope to do that. However, I can only drive my Z 6months out of the year where I live. My one concern is if the Datsun seals are compatible with this fluid.

Well after hearing good things about GM #12345349 syncro fluid I finally went to the local GM dealer and bought two quarts of the stuff. It is specially formulated for all yellow metal syncros. I drained the recommended gear lube that I had in the gearbox this weekend. I have a 78 5speed installed in my 1972. I can report now that I have very happy syncros. I have maybe 80 miles on the new fluid. The shifting just kept getting better and better the more I drove it. I would absolutly say this is the best this gearbox has ever worked. You can toss it in any gear anytime. It makes no complaints. Also no more notchy shifting feel. The bottle says it is a partial synthetic. It is definately thinner fluid however the gearbox seems quieter. Next up is to get that gear lube out of my LSD and put in a synthetic type.

I just saw something different today July 1st at the SCCA Solo II national tour event. John Anderson's F Prepared Z runs the stock 240Z front calipers on the rear. The rear rotors are the solid rotors from the Datsun roadster. Goes to show what can be adapted to the rear of the Z.

I heard about that 240Z. A specialty shop in Sherwood about 15 minutes away said he has done some sevice work on it. He said it was a B. Jackson car. I used to live in Neenah. Should have mine at the Road America June Sprints next weekend if you go there. There is also a silver RHD 240 located in Appleton.

REACTION DISC. The telltale symptom of missing reaction disc is fairly good pedal with engine off. Then goes to floor when engine runs. For those that have the fronts grab and put you thru the windshield more than likely have the same problem but have adjusted the booster rod length to make up for reaction disc missing. I spent a whole summer one year chasing this problem even making the mistake of lengthing the booster rod. That is a no-no with reaction disc missing.

I applied liberal amounts of antisieze to my pins when I last had them apart. 8 years later they were impossible to remove! Antisieze helps but is not the answer IMO. Next time I have to take these struts apart (maybe I never will) I will use 5/8" aircraft mil spec bolts as replacements for the pins.

This looks like a really nice setup and functional.

BSP fittings and adapters available here: http://www.pegasusautoracing.com/productselection.asp?Product=3230

I don't think I have ever heard of a metric tapered pipe thread. So I doubt its a M10.

Check out what this owners manual is up to now. I need to find one of these at a rummage sale to list. http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&rd=1,1&item=8055308451&sspagename=STRK%3AMEWA%3AIT

That Electrical Contractor did a nice job on the panel work and conduit also.

Chelle, A friend of mine (Wayne at Motion Products) has a Ferrari restoration shop up here in Wisconsin a few hours north of you. He has had a few GTO's in his shop. He built one GTO totally out of aluminum for a retired doctor in Illinois based on a different chassis. He has been racing that car in Vintage racing. He is ill now and understand it is for sale last I heard. Wayne recently completed this GTO built completely from scratch. It is owned by a guy in Madison, WI. You may know Wayne already. He would be a good source for anything GTO. His labor costs though not cheap is probably better than down by you.

FYI. I purchased the Timken bearings for mine and they are not made by Timken. The paper inside the box said something like ; Made overseas to Timken's specifications. Which means they just repackage someone else's bearings and are not really made to Timken specifications.

This is quite the sleeper. Don't know if it has been shown here before or not. I am not into drag racing my Z, but see his time and speed in the 1/4. http://www.cardomain.com/ride/2071134

This rear lighting diagram may help tracking it down.

Too much car for this driver. There goes somebodys garbage cans. http://www.showmeyourstang.com/gtcrash.htm

I like the ones that come with matching model.

I am refering to the turn signal filiment. The way I read it you thought it was on all the time with the running filiment. If guess that isn't what you meant then. My mistake. Nevermind.

I disagree. They go off and on.