srgunz

This is how my differential is acting. Its a R180 4:11 with a factory Limited Slip. New it had no unusual annoying noises. Now with about 25 thousand miles on it I have this annoying howeling noise at light throttle cruise. If you step on the gas and put a load on it , the noise goes away and is very quiet. The same when you let up on the gas and decelerate the noise goes away as well. Its right in that sweet spot where you always cruise at light throttle. At all speeds , around town or on the highway does not matter. Do you think a front or side bearing. Ring and pinion?

I have measured a few heads using the valve cover surface. Front, middle and rear and I get 3 different readings. I have to wonder if the valve cover surface is true front to rear? If not then I do not see how you can get the correct head thickness measurement. Are you guys saying your v/c surface are perfectly true and get the same measurement front to rear? We need a professional Datsun head builder opinion here.

Here the county I live in we have to pass smog. The county my brother lives in 40 miles away does not require smog. I registered my Z in my brothers county using his address. But I still keep Z here with me. Its not a state wide requirement here only certain counties. I feel your pain.

Go here. http://www.bobistheoilguy.com/ The forum will keep you busy for a long time.

Go by John Coffey's post number 6. You have an old motor that is loose as a goose. Do not waste money on these expensive oils. Will do you no good.

10 hours left on this one. Turn key. Why build one? http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Replica-Kit-Makes-280Z-2-Door-1978-DATSUN-289Z-FERRARI-GTO-REPLICA-Street-Legal-Track-Car-/280921558043?pt=US_Cars_Trucks&hash=item41683acc1b

To clarify my post. Just using the number 1 vac port. This is how mine is set up. It was also mechanical recurved. Also has a MSD ignition. That together gives a nice smooth idle and transition.

My 'C' cam does not have the 2 stamped into it either. Never saw one like that. I pulled the front of my N42 L28 apart because I had bad chain slap from very worn chain and gears. I replace all with new. While I was at it I had this 'C' cam with matching rockers and decided to install those as well. Not all together yet. Should run much better but I will not know which improvement had the most effect.

I found that hard to believe too. Probably was driving around on one headlight and never noticed. Would not be the first time.

You are right. Seems like most of the time its a simple problem overlooked. I had the same issue on my 72. I was running just the factory electric pump in the rear. Stock 240 fuel filter. After a while I learned the fuel pump had an internal fuel filter. Pulled it apart and bingo. Plugged up just like yours.

As far as hesitation (bog) goes, I had to bump my pilot jets on my Mikuni's up to 60's to get rid of it. I run 34mm chokes as well.

Not according to the race shop that set the car up. Anyway it revs so fast to 7500, I am happy with it.

Quote. "The problem is that there is no ported vacuum source to drawn from, so you'd end up getting way too much advance at idle." My triple manifold came with a distributor vac. port.

Thanks much. I was not aware of the different pans used. I should be more informed as long as I have had a 240Z. I assumed they were all the same. My bad. I never owned or even got to work on a 280ZX. I should have thought of a ZX and researched that first. I like this site the best. Thanks everyone.

I went and got my L28 pan. I should have done this if the first place. Here you can see the sump location compared to the L28 pan (silver one). Its an even more dramatic difference than even I first thought.

I will show it next to my L28 pan next. You will see the pick up opening is different as are the drain back holes. And as noted by another, front is notched out for a crossmember or sway bar. Not a big deal any more as I no longer need it.

OK. Here is the pan view showing the inside. From this you can see the outline of the gasket surface. You will notice an offset on one side of the gasket surface.

I will try to post the other side later today. You will then be able to see that the pan has an offset on one side. The Z is straight on both sides.

Never ever had any luck with rebuilt M/Cylinders. Its all new for me now. Just my opinion.

Never ever had any luck with rebuilt M/Clyinders. Its all new for me now. Just my opinion.

I bought this pan a long time ago to put on my rebuilt engine. The guy had a so so photo and he thought it was for a 240Z. Thought I would take a chance. Its still new, never been installed. But you can tell from all the scratches its been moved around for quite awhile. Who knows how it ended up here in the US. Thanks.

Did she tell you the width and spacing between?

I agree. It does look like a rear sump pan.

OK I did turn it the other way and still does not match.

You may be right. A front sump L6, whichever model used that.