srgunz

So what are the centers made of. Aluminum or magnesium? If aluminum I would use them. If magnesium then no way. Too old.

That AZC control arm looks scary for the street much less a track car with sticky tires. Even though you cannot go just by looks. I like the rod ends used on the TTT arms better than the ACZ rod ends too.

Larry Ellison, CEO of Oracle, has comissioned Kirkahm motorsports to build a cost no object Cobra. Its just pocket change for some people. Note the build book is for sale and will cost $4500.00!! http://www.kirkhammotorsports.com/book_aoe/

Check the offset. Many of the BBS wheels identical to that set have the front wheel drive offset. You would have to go the spacer route in that case.

I ran a supertrapp on mine. I did not like the setup after I noticed the carbon build up around the stack of plates. I took the end cap off and ran it that way with 2 stacks of plates only. Sounded great! I also had an early 2-1/2in. MSA exhaust that had at the time a cheap no name turbo muffler as part of the kit. That plugged up on me just like yours. I think it was a combination of rust and carbon. (tripple mikunis) How did I test it you ask? I took it off and stuck the garden hose in the inlet and it filled up and only dripped out the exit!! Now when I see a supertrapp being used, I suggest removal ASAP!! Or remove the end cap.

I was there. That would have been July 2005. Which GT350 is yours? I may have some photos of it. I try to get pics of all the Shelbys if I can. Also, there is a incar video of this mishap on YouTube.

Dan It has occured to me that my problems started after I upgraded to IE8. If that helps.

OK, I talked to Koni tech and he said that if I turn these strut inserts upside down and test, they will have no resistance and this is normal for struts. (At least theirs anyway)He said to put back in and crank up adjustment to account for wear. Glad I only pulled one. Back together it goes and readjust.

Me 2. Tonight. Go in via Classifieds. Forum entry no worky.

Yep, thats what I figure too. These are not rebuildable and are under warranty yet. I will be calling Koni this week to see what they will do as these may be no longer available. The fronts are still working good. (for now)

How can you really tell if one has a blown shock? I am running the older Koni 8641 gas adjustable shocks in my 240Z. On the rear it feels like one shock was bad and now I believe the other side has gone bad. I have pulled them. There are not leaking. They still have resistance when I push them down by hand and come back up on their own. Here's the deal. I turned the shock over and put the piston on the floor and pushed. There is virtually nothing there! No resistance. Does this sound right? Have any here noticed this on their shocks? I run 225 lb springs so that is within the range of the shock I would think. I installed these in 1992 but they only have 12K miles on them.

IMO. When posting a question like this you have to give people information to help you. Like what carburation you are using. What back plate. What air horns. Otherwise you just run people around in circles. I thought you may have tripples too.

This is a modified 350Z going flat out at this event when a tire fails! http://www.car-video-channel.com/videos/102_silver_state_classic_350z_280kmh_crash.html

Body and Paint: McCluskey Ltd, Torrance First class shop. I have some photos from Road America of a Daytona he built from scratch. Wow, No wonder that body looks better than new!

I ran minilites for years. If they are 14 x 6.5 with 13mm offset then they are the aluminum ones. You never bothered to mention the size and what they weigh. Nor did you furnish any markings or photos of markings. The valve holes in mine were large also. I picked up and installed a set of the chrome valves like you show. They fit pretty good. On the inside seal I used some blue RTV silicone gasket maker. Worked great.

Doesn't have a screen. It has a replacable disposable filter.

Yes, and also with LED you don't have that transformer/ballast that HID's need. Another plus with LED is their current draw is way less. I would guess 75% less.

The 260Z carbs will not even come close to using the fuel that the factory electric pump puts out. Before you change it pull the bottom cover off it, clean it out and replace the internal filter. Most do not even know there is a filter inside the pump itself. Then road test again.

That is exactly what happenes to the Z car if the battery is not tied down tight. You are by far not the first one this has happened to. Poor design by the factory. One fix is you can buy the exact same battery with the + and - opposite of what you have. This puts the negative side beneath the inspection lid instead of the pos. The low budget way is to just tape up the pos. terminal real good and you will not have any more shorting.

Did your 260z come with the transistor ignition set up that was on the inside kick panel? I thought they all did. If so do you have this isolated now or removed? Also, where is there a 260Z wiring diagram posted? Anybody know?

Jerry, I have done this many times and seems to work very well. However not as you describe. I do only one bleeder at a time. I do not understand why they would say all four at once as you suggest. The front and rear are independent of one another for one thing. Works well when you have nobody handy to pump the pedal too. I gravity bleed my clutch every year. I consider it very important for good operation.