duragg

Not sure what the next step in aero will be. I know I need a wing and splitter though... all the cool kids have them on the track.

I did one car with Bad-Dog pans and rails and one just custom with cardboard mockup like han_solo. The "pre-formed" pans are still a lot of fab work. Probably about the same either way. I have a 3rd Z to do floors this summer and will do custom with a flat sheet. Big leaded rubber mallet, a steel table, some 2x4s, earplugs, goggles, gloves and a grindr Kinda fun actually.

Thanks to "1 tuff Z" for solving my issue. All good on this thread. Tj

Looking for some pristine rocker arms. Whatcha got?

I cut them out of my 72 after reading about it. When I did my 73 I tapped them out with a drift no problem. Just pulled them from my 1970 with just light and steady hammer. They looked brAnd new inside and I could have reused them except for belling the threads. You might be surprised.

Our paddock with a friends M3. #lolteammanagergotdrunk Rv is the only way Thanks to our generous sponsors: Airpower Insurance, LLC and GDMAC Consulting

Great race at Chuckwalla Valley Raceway this past weekend with National Auto Sports Association (www.nasaaz.com) Only 2 other competitors in my ST3 class (Renshaw's M3 and Davis' 911). Two of the fastest in any class.. Saturdays 35m sprint race, Jeremy's M3 broke and Erik's 911 was DQ (on site dyno too high at 232 vs 225!) I got a "Meatball" on lap 9 for engine fire but it was just the poly motor mount too close to headers. That made me Winner for all 100 points in ST3. A wins a win. Sunday was my very first ever Checkered Flag! 8th overall and 2nd in class with some 1:59 laps. My first time running CVR in ccw direction. That completes my four required "Provisional" races without incident. Up to now we've battled blown distributors, broken pressure plates, engine failure, brake failure and driver error lol. BIG THANKS to my Team Manager Chris Dowers (2+2 owner) for saving my butt so many times. We have a team name, but were told it was not good, yet it really fits... Happy for us and HLS30-158249 of the "Special Needs Race Team"!!

Matt, raced my Z at Chuckwalla (Cali) this past weekend and saw a nice picture of your car on a wall calendar. (NASA maybe?) I knew the weekend would be good from there on.

Not sure what you are into but the Musical Instrument Museum is amazing. Tons of great restaurants.

Hi. Update. Smaller Slave restored my throw and pedal position for heel / boot / smash shifting. The grinding was reduced all except downshifts into 3rd. Due to more disengagement? Beating on the old box pretty hard... CVR is a lot of RPM for me on 23" tires with a 4.38. It was better tho. I kinda want a dog-ring box...

The short shifter I made isn't useful anymore lol. Kinda broke it. I installed a smaller slave cylinder and gained more throw so hoping for better performance this weekend when we race at Chuckwalla: https://www.facebook.com/events/336311369840459/ Join us.

Yes the throwout collar size is a real nasty trap. There are a bunch of sizes? Story: We had to change a clutch during a race weekend and my "Crew Chief" stayed up all night and got it done to race at 8am. I saw the old Throwout collar and bearing on the ground and he said he just used the new one that came in the box. I literally started to cry... But luckily, they were the exact same size. He didn't know there was a bunch of different sizes.

The later style has a spring inside which acts to compensate for wear. Did you open bleeder and push piston to bottom of bore? And does that result in too much clearance between salve piston and fork? On mine they are just touching, i can just slightly turn the rod as it rests lightly on the fork. Thinking.. If your rod is too far from fork with piston at bottom, the piston spring will compensate for this and your starting place would be too far out and thusly your extended is outside the bore? Does the o-ring protrude? Make the rod longer?

Measured my clutch slave throw at about 17mm. It is stamped "AS 05" and has 3/4 bore. Bought an adjustable early 1970-1972 type with 11/16 bore. I used the non-adjustable pushrod which fit nicely, bleed and measured a bit over 19mm throw. This now allows me to adjust things so my clutch doesn't begin to engage a 1/2 " off the floor. Pedal is stiffer (more manly).

I currently love this thread as I want a little more slave throw. I bought an 11/16 with the adjustable rod, but have the stock fork without the hole. Tempted to drill and slot the hole and put a spring so it all act correctly. Or just see is a 5/8 slave might be available.

I hated it because it made the shift feel more particular. In "combat" (on a race-track), missing shifts costs time and more potential for damaging overspeed. Personally I never had any issue with the stock shift geometry and this just felt unnatural. Its not like you can actually shift faster in any meaningful sense in my experience. I'm going back to the stock throw for my preference. Others swear by it.

Oh, plus I had drilled my tranny "ears" to make a short shifter and I absolutely hated the feel of the short shifter.

All good news above. Hope the results are positive. I had a really BAD weekend of transmission grinding last weekend racing 4 sessions at our first local event in Phoenix. All gears were crunching. One of the problems is my brand-new HD Act clutch is adjusted to the max and only releases the last 1/2" off the floor. I don't think it is getting enough release and is impeding good shifts. In addition the new race motor is very happy at even higher RPM and we are going faster and none of that seems to help. PLAN: I've ordered an adjustable clutch slave cylinder to get more release and can adjust the ball too I think (without removing trannY?) I may switch from MT90 to an even lighter fluid (1/2 MTF-SM + 1/2 ATF?)

The racing was great. This was race #1 and #2 of my Provisional license (4 races) and another 4 left after that as a Rookie. The goal was to feel out the motor, stay out of trouble and get the card punched. Plus not hurt the car too bad. The Rebello motor is a monster! Wow, from 4000 to 8000 RPM it just doesn't quit. I was walking by other similar weight/power cars.. I suspect the Dyno they required me to use reads low. Saturday race qualified near the back and got stuck behind an ST2 Vette (8:1 ratio, more power) but he was struggling in the turns, wouldn't let me by on the straights and locked his brakes at every entry. So I just decided to chill out and wait for him to go off... but he didn't and soon I was "Pedal to the Metal" ... no brakes... So I coasted the rest of the race which terminated early in a Red Flag due to an incident. DFL. Notch one~! Sunday was warmer, lowered tire pressures, pulled 3 seconds off my qual time and was mid-pack. The Grid lineup was true and most of the race was a congo line, but I had an embarrassing mechacnical failure that got me stuck in 2nd gear halfway through and I had to limp back to the pits. This was probably good as it turned out I had Flu with a fever of 103 and wasn't feeling great. Car is an easy fix, learned some good lessons and... Notch two!! Next event is Chuckwalla in 3 weeks and we are bringing the "full configuration" this time with 275 Hoo Hoos and the rest of the horsepower I left on the table this past weekend. The fastest cars of the weekend? Unlimited Viper and Stock Car turniing 58s. And Erik Davis' 1971 Porsche 911 with 225HP and 2200 pounds '3 wheeling' to LOW 59 second lap times~! Wow. It aint the car people

This didn't rub and worked great until I added another 100hp and a really short track. Can't find my pic of them installed. 3" aluminum flanges from Aircraft Spruce, up and over wheel arch and direct to rotor center.

Not sure on coolant passages. Its in the forum somewhere. I think its just a regular pipe thread? 3/8 NPT or 1/2? And wow... that Rebello motor never quits pulling.

I was boiling fresh "Blue" fluid at WHP-East (Phoenix, was Firebird) this weekend. I have 3" holes in my front dam. Thinking about making headlight buckets into caliper feeding ducts.

Racin this weekend! First under Provisional Race license and 9:1

Trying to keep my powder dry: https://www.facebook.com/events/1426828454215960/?ref=22

That particular dyno we are required to use seems a little harsh on its readings. I dyno'd my old motor which had previously been near 200, and this dynojet said 165, a number that just didn't make sense based on how I was holding against other cars. But this is the classing requirement. Bob Ream makes EFI ITBs with the same footprint as the DCOE carbs. Totally custom, very cool, vrry spensive. Seat time & racecraft > a few more hp