duragg

The little green motor served well for 2.5 years. 2013 I started really abusing it hard and it asked for a break. Had problems with Damper all along which contributed to some dizzy drive gear issues. Will address this problem in a motor refresh this winter. In the end the dizzy drive consumed itself. Which was fortuitus:

These are ZX Turbo vents I think. With little fins cut out Great lengths to ensure they cleared STBs

So a 7lb starter isnt happening No easy gain available Worth a try... thx

I had been having hood blow-open problems at real high speed. Added a second vent to the hood and cut out all the little fingers to make a more bigger opening. No more hood popping. Temps that were 210 dropped considerably (even tho I was running at lower altitude). Pics to follow.

Searched a bit, haven't seen much data on light starters for L motors. Is the Reduction unit possibly the lightest? I think I weighed my stock starter at 14 pounds, would be neat to shave some of that down if there was an easy choice.

I was re-reading JohnC's writeup I followed for BZ3099 and BZ3015 coilover install. Comparing the dimensions for the Koni shocks it looks like the rears are identical and the fronts could be installed with just a small spacer to position them where the Tokicos used to be. I think I would have to open the tube ID a bit since my Tokicos were snug to install.

just light starter and a wimpy little alternator. I don't need much electricity,

1973 240Z With Zero fuel, no driver, full cage, gutted interior, gutted doors, aluminum dash plexi hatch and quarters, L28 with 5 SPeed and R200 running 15x10s all around and S12W up front was 2252 lbs. I weighed my Battery tonight oink oink at 35 lbs. That isn't going back in. Alternator was 12 pounds. That isn't going back in.. Starter was 14 pounds. That isn't going back in. either...

35 pound battery? 14 starter pounds?? 12 pound alternator??? No.. Empty now I am 2252 with full cage and safety junk. 2200 is an easy goal Provided I still make adjusted 9:1 ratio

The corresponding gear on the crank is wasted also. The exact cause? If you read through all my posts you would probably find it. But since we are all adults here ....

I have Illuminas now (BZ3099 & BZ3015?) Its what comes after this. I will likely run them another year as they are not the limiting factor yet haha.. How you know one is dead? My left rear makes a clicking noise. Need to pull it and have a discussion with it..

Thinking about shocks now too. QUOTE: If there is no rule limitation, why not get rid of the struts altogether? Would open up the shock choices a lot. As in just weld on the diameter / length tube needed to the spindle area? And design it around the most favorable shock housing? If I have Illuminas now in the standard sectioned MR2 type configuration what is my best next step? Running 425/450 springs and I have no complaints about the shocks at this time. But maybe i am missing something.

What do I do after Tokicos again?? I'm cut for the typical Illumina install with the Mr2 insert

I planned this to be the last event for the little green motor. It served well and really only needs a better Dizzy drive, then can be backup motor. But I am done with Dizzys now. Have BHJ dampers with 60-2 wheels or some such witchcraft for the next motor. Sticking with L motors for a while. The sound. Sticking with Carbs for a while.. The history Sticking with NA for a while... cuz its harder and just plain cooler. 2015? Hmmm... Supercharged L32

First time at Chuckwalla, qualifying for Saturday race.. Lap 4: Powpowpowpowpow... so I let off, then tried again... powpowpowPOW Pulled off to infield and took the hook. Found Dustributor now turns at random and useless times. Done for 2013, thx to "The Probe" for all your help and unstoppable enthusiasm.

Wait... what? Double that. I might try the other kind than the screens. They are all kinda pricey. Although hopefully this motor will be pulled for refresh soon and so all this abrasives is just like poor mans extrusion honing.

The damper died first for sure. Had been that way. Clutch vibration was subtle, but new and different after that last run on Friday.

Wanted to relay a story about Crankshaft Harmonic Damper. Last year I bought the Motorsport Performance Damper which is about $100 bucks or so. I really didn't pay much attention to it after that. At the last NASA event at Inde Motorsports Ranch I had 2 unusual failures. 1) Distrubitor (later ZX style with crowns inside)- It tore itself apart. Chipped up teeth and then quit working. I figured it was just a problem with the bushings in the front cover and an old Dizzy. All are probably true. 2) Later that same day I drove one session, came back to paddock, loaded a passenger and set out for another session but the clutch would not disengage. We bled, adjusted, pondered with no improvement. Additiionally there was a new VIbration, linked to RPM, independent of trans engagement. Upon pulling the clutch we found one of the leaf springs that centers the Pressure Plate friction disk had broken. shifting the surface causing inability to fully release and a vibration. It was a relatively new Arizona Zcar Clutch (Wasn't inexpensive). Appears the warranty is also Kaput.. lol. No worries Dave. He said there has never been any other failure like this. So then once back to the barn and a post-event detailed inspection is when I noticed the harmonic damper had "spun" its inner and outer shell and was locked up crooked, the rubber inside was mostly gone. Unsure how long it was like this. The Dampers job is to dampen torsional vibration which can damage components. Unmanaged vibrations can do all sorts of odd damage. Anyways, a new BHJ Damper is now installed (expensive and very impressive looking). Just throwing this out there for the record.

Thanks friends! Tom

THank you that helps. Got to figure I will be at least 8 and possibly more.

If I use BSFC wags and figure 8/10 driving is average 50% of max horsepower, call it 120 average hp / hour... I'm screwed lol. 120 x .5 = 60 lbs /hr at 100LL 6lbs / gallon = extra fuel stop.

I have been poked into running an Enduro next weekend and have LOTS of new considerations. Fuel flow being #1 and I never paid any attention before. Dumped tank and calibrated gauge in 1 gallon increments, great. But what should I wag for consumption figuring 7/10 to 9/10 driving? L28, triple DCOE 45s with 40 chokes at Sea Level. Wheel dyno hp in the 210 to 230 range. Any of you smart people have a WAG / HOUR? 5? 7? 10?

I have stock. I need a race pan.

I need a real oil pan for my L28. I suppose I can buy Arizona Zcar pan but I worry it sticks down too far. Anybody got a baffled pan sitting around for me race kar? Tom

Another video shot from inside an NSX with about 3x my P/W ratio, but "power under the curve" and traffic keeps us in the same general area. I never saw the incident at the end of the video for obvious reasons.. I am in the green Z, (duh) front left of windscreen at start of the video. Bear in mind this was supposed to be a Competition School "Passing Exercize" and not racing.