duragg

I have been talked off the ultralight twin disk setup in favor of a ultra durable system that I can abuse. I don't have a full winch-up trailer yet and 2014 is a learning year for me and the car so this is probably a wiser choice (Blah!!!)

Jim I will call you later The guys that help with my racecar all run it. What version? Tj

Nice work. Looks great. Quite a difference. My engine is out and started down this road, but I turned around. Its a LOT more work than it looks like huh. Congrats.

lol... now you know why I am building a "spare shell"

Are you a 240? or 280? My 1973 s30 with Zero usable fuel was 2252 without me. I am 170 buck-nekkid also, I figure me and suit and helmet and HANS is another 200, I still have L28 and am running the Toyota anchors. I wonder where the weight is? I am trying to stay in a certain P/W class so I really can't dump anymore weight now. But I think losing another 100lbs from the car is possible (CF hood & hatch, battery, alt, starter, struts and wheels) This new 1970 shell I just acquired is a feather...

Matt your 2615 was weighed WITH driver and 11g fuel?

Clean car. Motor looks to behave nicely. Exhaust tubing looks, ummm... Hung big.

I need a clutch solution, my racing brothers. I prefer indestructible vs rebuilding every 3 or 4 weekends. I can spend whatever. Past $1000 bucks I am choking. Right now I have a 12lb "Arizona Zcar" flywheel which takes 225 or 240mm clutch. Or I can dump that and go new flywheel / clutch combo. Help... Too many options. Looking for the "Buy it Yesterday" button

Still have this? I have an Arizona Zcar flywheel and clutch setup now.

Wow. The doors. Nicest doors I have ever seen. They have some black crap sprayed inside. I stripped and gutted one of the doors last night and it is rust free (I almost feel bad). Also very light. * Gutted bare door at 18 lbs. * Hinges seem lighter as 1.5 pounds and 2.5 pounds Gutted to 18 pounds and still has paint and tar spray and mud inside. Ok. Now lets discuss the hatch. It is pristine Gen 1 vented hatch with vertical defroster. I would make it available to somebodys project with a proposal and suitable empassioned plea...

I should have never opened this thread.... Nice work friend. Tom

I will take anything from Ohio!

How did you verify things like the hoot attach area is spot on? I guess in reality there adjustment range built in.

It was horribly dusty if that makes you feel any better?

Well, its not "rust free" but virtually so I would say. Nothing is free as you know. Floorboards and front framerails will still be replaced and tire well cut out.

Yep, your intro to NASA gave me a reason not to make Green into a drag car. Blue is intended for now as a backup shell for Green to be worked up over the next period until its use is necessitated. No LS / Chevy in my future. Too easy and really too much horsepower. My goal is to stay in NASA ST3 which is well populated with a bunch of cool cars and crafty drivers.

I used HT10 in rear if I recall. Deleted stock prop valve and added Wilwood prop valve. Gave me ability to have too much or too little rear even running R6 on 15x10s

Y'all are familiar with the Green Machine, but today I acquired another Z (#4 for me). This is HLS30-06367 (June 1970). Donated by my good friend Jon "Speedgato" from Desert Datsuns Arizona way. My Green Machine was born green and will always be that way. This car was born Blue and will always be the Blue car. Corsair blue... And will become another dedicated track car. It will undergo a full race-car transformation and drive again as it once did. Thank you Jon, and thanks to the Desert Datsuns gang for all their help over the years. And "Special" thanks to Chris Dowers who devotes so much time to my projects. You really are a "Special Person". Now, what you've all been waiting for... Remarkably little rust. Some damage up front and possible impact damage in the back. All will be easily fixed. Only Z I've ever come across with NO / ZERO / NONE modifications to it. Bone stock. lol:

I am right behind you friend. This will be my next job. My plan was to get some of those Flap Wheels with the 1/4" shank and make a way to extend those. Either weld on a rod or somehow extend those. Then get into those tubes and start working on the ID to make it friendier. Alternatively a ball hone usually has a long shank on it. But I think with an extended flap wheel and a little patience you can make a nice clean fit. Please document which parts you are using. You may have to make a spacer for the bottom? And work the gland nuts or replace?

I have the Arizona Zcar 12lb flywheel now (Made by someone else, I can't remember who). I need to figure out a good, light Road Race clutch ASAP since new Rebello motor will be here in X-XX weeks. 2252 empty now with cage and all. Had a winter goal of shaving 50 pounds which should be easy, but also depends on RWHP Dyno of new engine to stay "In Class". Need to figure out a reasonably priced clutch (reasonable = $250 +/- $100)

Ok now what about this: http://dpracing.co/engine.html Starter adapater to a little bitty flywheel and fancy racer-boy clutch? I'm sensing a thousand bucks here. Maybe 7 extra pounds is ok for now.

Both the crank gear and Dizzy drive shaft are toast. Gonna do a refresh and keep as a backup, or maybe some other fun experiments...

Was traveling and missed my own thread! If offer still on table Z-Ya, I would be grateful. Tj

Tranny is back out. 3rd and 4th are still shifting flawlessly even when abused. Disassembling this week to cut the 1st and 2nd Syncros to the right depth and reassemble. I also finally cut a new holt in the shifter thing and lengthened the selector below the pivot by an equal amount. Throw seems shorter (I think I measured 3" throw at the top from 3rd to 4th? But i had a beer by then and wasn't scientifical much). Hmmm, I should have ordered that rear extension bushing which aligns the driveshaft. Forgot about that. Read in another thread. Back to NPZ.com

I like this idea. Press in one of those wide angle bearings take some wiggle and let the business do its thing.