duragg

Super video John. Congrats.

Guess I haven't updated in a while. I think my shifting is basically perfect now. Or at least I have not noticed any crunching in the last 2 races and I am flogging the old box pretty hard. I bought a *smaller* clutch slave cylinder which give me a little more throw and have adjusted the pedal to maximize the release. Actually I had it mis-adjusted and noticed the tranny shifted perfectly so I just left it that way. Doesn't slip and throw out bearings are cheap. ANyways.. I'm a happy shifter for the time being.

I need to get my splitter project going ASAP.. Now that the car is behaving consistently... I think an angular shape is easier to cut.. Basically like a T-shirt shape... Straight line across the front below the inlet area, angled back on each side, tapering back to the cross member area. Rear pins for easy installation with clips of suitable strength up front. Hmmm.. kitchen remodel / splitter fabrication...

Oh.. is it video time?? Here is me with my new radiator setup on a 100f+ day with 30 heat cycle R6 275/35-15s haha Water stayed below 200f. Motor was popping above 5000 so I had no power. http://youtu.be/4g6i19dIg6k Thought I had the save, but got the marbles.

This "cooling flow to the head" concept still eludes me. I have searched and not certain what I am looking for. I have a plain cooling system with the heater core lines capped and no fancy returns or bypass stuff. What am I missing?

Ran the dual 5"x11" oil coolers in the front air dam this weekend at Firebird. Oil temps stabilized around 235 or so with water at 195/ All good.

After removing the oil cooler from the front of the radiator and relocating it with dedicated airflow the temps are now perfect. It was 100f today in Phoenix, ran 3 Time Trial sessions with a new 3L Rebello motor and a high flow t-stat (180). Water temps stabilized around 195. Oil temps around 235. Hope this thread helps others down the road. Tj

I talked to that place and it looks like about $1000 bucks would get a custom radiator. I was thinking... Make the radiator as wide as the whole front grill and let it rest on top of frame rails. Then put the oil cooling section in a bottom drop that fits just betweeen the frame rail. That would max out the cooling area in the grill and allow the oil exchanger section to nesltle down low between the rails.

Racing this Saturday morning so I had to get the job done in the quickest manner Installed dual 5x10" air / oil coolers in series directly in the air dam. Quick and dirty proof of concept execution. If the concept works and temps are acceptable I have a few months to revisit a fancier custom solution (or leave well enough alone).

I'm still deep in this battle. Was on the verge of too hot with the race motor, then when it blew up and running the mild-motor in 100f temps I would get up to 220f water and have to back off to hold 210f. Now the race motor is back in. I have removed the oil cooler which lived in front of the radiator. Mounting dual Tru-Cool L7B coolers in front of the wheel wells fed by ducts. Radiator is all shrouded in and has full access to airflow. I had a 180f "high flow" therostat in and did some testing with it. In about 210f water it opens up to about a .2" gap and math says that is something like a .86 square inch hole. Some friends said to run a 5/8 restrictor which is only a .3 square inch hole. Some websites say get the max flow possible. Hoping the relocated oil coolers will improve airflow enough so that I can run the car properly.

One of these I am guessing? http://www.crracing.com/racing-radiators/racing-heat-exchange-radiator

So that is an "off the shelf" radiator with an integral oil cooler section? A part number would be super right now... I will look on their website.

/\ John this would help with a lot of logistics of mounting, but I am battling high water temps to begin with. Summer in Phoenix so dealing with 100f ambient temps. Arizona Z-car radiator, which used to have the oil cooler sandwiched in front of the radiator. Eliminating that oil cooler and I now have really good ducting to the radiator and an 18" electric fan (have to sit on grid sometime...) If I am adding the oil cooling burden to the radiator system will there be enough capacity? Considering the radiator is no longer blocked as much by the oil cooler.. Suggest a size of this oil/water exchanger? Link observed.. hmm

Need a new oil cooling scheme on my 240Z. Track only car with a 3L race motor. Previously I had a single cooler in front of the radiator which was about 5" tall by maybe 18 or 20" wide? Primarily I am looking to solve a high water temp problem which means getting the oil cooler away from the radiator. I had considered using 2 oil coolers just in front of each wheel well fed by an inlet duct and 3" tube to a shroud covering the front of each oil cooler. I bought 2 coolers of 8" x 10" but I think they are just too big to fit in there and get ducted properly. They make ones that are 5" x 10" but not sure that is enough? Alternatively I can use the existing 5x20 cooler in the area of the front airdam with ducts and see how that goes. Trickier to mount it and duct it tho. What are others using?

Today is Thursday

SOO much goes into this formula. Dont forget about final drive ratios and RPMs needed to bridge turns. I have a 4.375 now and sure, you can change everything on the car to make and LS work and probably spend another big pile of money.. to have the same old Chevy motor that everyone has. Honestly the T56 is a deal breaker for me, 6 speeds is too many for my brain to keep track of. L motor is fine for now.

haha. Well in my class ST3 i am limited to 9:1(weight/power) and currently I am right there. Several times at every race people come up and say how much they love the old Z. They love the sound of the motor. This is a great feeling. The fastest car in my class is a 1972 Porsche 911, air-cooled with Weber carbs. He is faster than nearly every car in every other class and within tenths of the Unlimited cars. It isn't power that wins races and points. My next motor is in process. An N42/N42 L28 with an Eaton M90 supercharger. Should be able to get a consistent 300whp with a killer sound. My "manopause" is coming along nicely...

The convex covers rear view and all right side view and then it's peripheral vision for real close wheel / wheel battles. I have a 3" Joes racing "fish eye" on the a-pillar of the cage for "close in combat" plus peripheral vision for the left side. Get the widest of the concave "Broadway" mirrors they offer.

Better link?

It was hot and coolant was creeping past 220f so I just pedaled to hold temps. http://l.facebook.com/l.php?u=http%3A%2F%2Fyoutu.be%2FGKmnHn6s61o&h=dAQHZLDc0&s=1

Successful race weekend at Spring Mountain last week. Spare motor is off by 100hp but ran fine and we got 2 clean finishes and 150 points for the weekend keeping me well in 2nd place for NASA-AZ ST3. The new Wilwood 1" brake master restored the pedal feel I was missing and the booster with accumulator worked perfectly. Using DTC60 pads front and DTC70 rear on S12w and ZX brakes this was the first event that I had so much control over the hydraulics I could really upset the car braking too sharply. Even running 275 R6 on all four corners I had to relearn pedal modulation to set the weight transfer properly. My bias valve is right in the middle. Race motor is on the way back from Rebello after throwing a rod. Cause unknown. Dave took care of me. Next is relocating the oil cooler and more radiator ducting for better temps

John has been super helpful with my racecar build over the years. Ps.. John I need that wing, will call you next week Tj

I'm running this 1" Wilwood setup now with a stock 240z booster. I had to remove internal checkvalves in the Wilwood. I have Toyota S12W front and 280ZX disks rear with a manual proportioning valve. DTC60 front pads and DTC 70 rears with the adjuster about halfway (limiting rear brakes). The pedal is amazing.. Very very strong brakes. Great pedal feel. Done messing with brakes for a while, this setup should do me well. Tj

Always a fan. Thanks for posting. Going on my Faceplace if you don't mind.

For me, the F16s never panned out. I had 165s on a seriously ported huge cam 3L race motor, after it tossed a rod I installed my 2.8 N42/N42 with flat tops and a mild cam and needed to go down to 145 mains. Get a wideband to really make it easy.