duragg

I'm going to run one across the struts. Then one each going back to the firewall around the area where one of the intermediate reinforcement ribs is. About 6" to either side of center or wherever that longitudinal rib (is my plan...) Hoping to not just create a pivot point at the firewall. So I made a precision drawing...

This sure looks like an easy way to go. I can't see why Aluminum wouldn't work for the Compression and Tension loads we have? Or is that being silly and just go Steel for bouncing off curbs.

So much left to do. Gotta finish setting ride height and then mount flares and race tires / wheels. FOR SURE the fenders are cut high enough now LOL after finally pulling springs and doing it the right way on the 3rd go. Nets are in, seat and belts good, brace done, Accusump mounted, got to finish wiring and plumbing.. I consternated for weeks about where to put it and finally just drilled a hole and it was easy from there. Oil Line will go dong through the floor, over diffy, under tunnel into engine area.

Moving along..

I'd like some windshield retaining clips (need 5) for race car. I really don't feel like making them... perhaps somebody has a set out there? Talking about the kind that go outside the car to keep the windshield from departing in a crash.

Once you start motor and depending on RPM it should go nicely to + side showing refill. Really need to reference voltage also. If you have like 10.8V and a discharge somethings broke. What is your resting engine off volts?

Amp gauge is = to flow into or out of battery (comparing Alt to System) Google electricity and water analogy for further. Plus side... juice flowing into and raising system. What exact hot start symptoms? You really want to be able to see both volts and amps if possible. During engine cranking you are pure "draw" since the alternator is not spinning fast enough to operate or contribute. Can help to see batt volts during cranking to see what starter is up to. Electricity discussion causes engineers to wake from the dead and my butchery will be noted. But those are the basics

I'd guess that many of the people on Hybridz (by virtue of selection of this forum) indeed drive quite well. But there are things well beyond any of our control that are a major concern. I too have several thousand hours of flying over 20 years and am humble and happy with the results so far. That said... when your lips involuntarily say "o-shit" real fast and 1000hp feels like a brake pedal... That is the time when attention to details on safety may help. I was really shocked going through the process of making my car compliant with NASA (www.nasaaz.com) road racing rules at just how inadequate most passenger cars are. The really new stuff is a lot better (M3 over the cliff at Tortilla Flats is an example). I certainly don't want to die in a car or plane crash. And I REALLY don't want to have my pelvis smashed and my head crushed and live the rest of my life under professional care. And so I see some of the younger people I know out doing mid-night drag races and... well maybe I'm just getting old. Tj

Sneak peek...

Thanks all. My particular inquiry is with respect to a track-only application where a malee (sp?) with a stopped car or hard object at much higher speed and with less options is contemplated. My hood pins are those neat push-button ones, and I've actually weakened my hood around the Post #33 bending point to make extra room for camber plates so it should be an easy bend. This is the video that prompted my queery: https://www.facebook.com/photo.php?v=564922293570661

Woke up in the middle of the nite again... What prevents the hood from decapitating me in a full frontal? I deleted the stock latch and used dual pins. Have cage, but need something to limit front travel and force the hood to buckle in the middle? Maybe stock safety latch going back on.

Great thread. Keep after it. Just be open minded that oil plus airflow can blow anywhere it wants. Triple check the stupid and obvious like drain and fill plugs and all fittings

Finished 3 months of fabrication work turning the Z into a dedicated NASA "Race Group" legal track car. Today, the painter comes to start 2 weeks of paint work and I cannot be happy enough ... Many thanks to my flock of helpers for putting in so much time to get all the work done.

More likely the 2 seals inside the shifter thing. They leak down and look exactly like the rear seal. There is one o-ring and one Lip seal. You have to pull the extension, remove the shifter mechanism, bang out the rear cap, pull out the long rod and then push out and replace the lip seal. Then bang / stake the rear cover which I gooped also. Then the external o-ring. Put it all back together (Again) and you should be fine. My experience... Edit: I think is is 32850H and 32710N http://www.nissanpartszone.com/Page_Product/PartDetail.aspx?ModelName=280ZX&ModelYear=1983&ModelSeries=S130&FileType=268&SelectConditions=%284%3dMT%3b5%3dF5%3b%29&ShowConditions=%284%3dMT%3b5%3dF5%3b%29&seeDesc=False&goBack=True&SectionNo=&ComponentsNo=328

Funny I shimmed my stock 6 pack pretty high and it doesnt make a peep of noise at all. I changed fluid and have no modifier and still nothing. Maybe the material used in group buy is gummier steel or stainless? I wonder what your disk plates look like now. Plate galling?

I'm doing the electric valve and 25psi engage switch (All pilfered from Mikellys cast-off parts). I don't care about startup, just starvation at power. Appreciate the input. Haven't drilled the holes just yet.. Tj

Mounting Accusump day... this is a dedicated track car. I'm thinking of mounting in back bay by strut towers. Any reason not to? If it has nuisance leaks I will be pissed, but should be able to seal. Steel reinforced hose meets tech and I just don't imagine too much pressure loss on a 15' section of 3/4" hose. I can't stuff it under the cowl without more cutting. I have a passenger seat... Under dash hard to service. How am I doing so far? I wish I had the balls to mount it on top of the roof "Ghostbusters" style..

There is a LOT of welding on my S30 now since it is a dedicated track car. You get good at welding blow-out holes and putting out small fires pretty fast. Race-cars are race-cars for a reason. They are hammered regularly. Just keep beefing up the week spots. I think that Drag-drops have to be some of the worst abuse. Jumping burms and going Airborn at 100mph isn't great. But can't be anywhere near the force of hooking through a V8 drop from a stand still. I'd break too... Tj

Z car Source had Tabco lower door panel repair sections in stock. They are in Phoenix and might have the others. I wasn't expecting much in terms of fitment, but the fit was actually spot-on. Not directly related to your other panel, but worth a check with Zcarsource.com to see if they have in stock. http://www.zcarsource.com/body-repair-panels_8_53080.html

2500?

Sorry, you said main feet.

Some pics. None of the install is perfect, but learned a lot.

I just went through all this and finally opted to have a weld in custom cage built. With all the goodies and some extra work I spent $2600 (added camber plates, frame rails, seat mounts, Nascar door bar and some other repairs). Probably could have gotten a basic cage done for under $2k. Or a really much nicer for $3-4. I would encourage you to follow a rulebook of CCRs regardless (SCCA, NASA, etc). If you turn more competitive in the future, perhaps you would only need to add or amend a few small items versus being hopelessly out of tech. My 73 has the retract cups also, but that is where we anchored the bottom and used the cups as the drop holes for 360 welding the main hoop areas. In NASA CCR you can have up to 4 bends in each forward hoop and I would use ALL of them. You are also allowed to dig into the horizontal section between A and B pillars and with all of this a crafty fabber could really tuck that Forward hoop deep into the roof, then embrace the A pillar all the day down and sink into the side frame near the footwell. You need to lower the seat more... imagine how I know this? and I'm 5-11. I can send pics if able to help.

You guys rock! Thats some direct hits right there.

Good links. Yep I can get the tube from the metal store just down the road. Thanks for the tips.