duragg

Good thread. F-LCAs are next on my list. Why TTT vs AZC or ? On a bad track day I lit my ball joint boots on fire... Replaced and wrapped with some heat shielding. The next day I was looking at a Dodge Viper Comp Coupe which was imported from some Brazilian race series and saw they had all their rubber boots wrapped this same way. Felt vindicated.

Watch your headers with the Jeep mounts. They were about 2" away from my headers but 20 minutes into a race I got "Meatballed" for an engine fire. The mount had liquified, caught fire and boiled. No damage, but the mount was toast. Some heat shielding fixed it over night an no problem in the next days race.

I think that would lean out the entire circuit though, including the idle needles which are already a 65f9 drilled to a 73 on mine with the needles 3.5 full turns out. What I would really like is to machine out the entire progression well, machine a key slot and then machine inserts which I can drill and modify at will, pull out replace and try a different setup. Since it is a track only car I'm mostly interested in WOT though, so that won't happen. I'd do some sort of ITB EFI before I did that.

They are all different and there is no perfect "right" way except it should end up strong, safe and without as much rust or as many holes. Cut the area out bigger and fashion a piece to get in there somehow? Nobody will ever see it, you will not be judged on the outcome, it can only be better than it was. Carry-on. Looks good.

Today I finally got around to using the Franck Fixture to drill the extra Prog ports. I used the hole corresponding to +1mm closer to the engine and by watching the wideband it seemed to get rid of the thin spot (15+afr). Only problem is it can make that spot a little rich now, but I will deal with that later. Can close the old hole or move the new one depending. The thin spot was a problem on track since the throttle response got wonky at times when I really needed some light and steady power.

Mine never did make much noise..

Today is my Kilopost Day on Hybridz! Yay. So many thanks to all my friends and all the knowledge I gain here. Y'all is a good group of dudes. Tom. PS... LOVE The title... but I can't do any new posts for the rest of the day lol.

Oooh, also found my new vibration cause... right side half-shaft nuts loose inboard and outboard.

INstalled ARP M12*1.5 wheel studs and changed the hubs with loose holes. Its a little better... :/

Mine seemed like it was undisturbed and original. Didn't get the aftermarket sensation, but who knows. It don't slip much..

I think they will be ok, but ya just never know. My 15x10s have tons of clearance to the coilever area. The limiting factor for me up front is the tie-rod (probably due to the roll center spacer). To get full travel clearance I had to cut A LOT of the rear end. Tj

RebekahZ, what is a PowerBrute? My r200 CLSD is just all Nissan stuff. Had all 6 factory clutch parts. Hope you got your sorted out. Tj

That's how it's done! Nice work.

How's the condition of the bushings at the shifter area?

Several...

Once clutch in, vibes stop? Raise rpm with clutch in to 6000 and be sure it's not flywheel related? There is an app for smartphones that does vibration analysis. You can determine tire rpm and driveshaft rpm and try to isolate the frequency. What is your Diffy ratio?

The master thread for all things Weber is generally considered to be this one: http://forums.hybridz.org/topic/28318-weber-jetsall-who-live-for-their-triples-please-read-this/?hl=webers There is also a Weber Yahoo group that is somewhat helpful. But reading the thread above about 10 times will really bring you up to speed.

A good machine shop should be able to match drill with respect to the Ring Gear and salvage all that. You can always have it balanced afterwards if it makes you feel better, but its turning relatively slowly. I vote to Keep.

The Miata kids rock.

Contemplating just this very idea..

With the new clutch setup the shifting was a lot better this time. I really only recall and crunching when downshifting into 3rd. I have another tranny to build up which I intend to make a hybrid of gears: Close Ratio from 1983 with shorter Overdrive from a 1977. This will be welcome on track instead of the big jump to the long .745 OD All seems happy enough for the time if I can keep myself from trying to get into reverse at 90 mph...

There would be a lot of chopping with those wheels. To get my 15x10s to clear with 275s in the back I had to cut my rears WAY up. This assuming I wanted to be clear at full squat for careening off berms sideways mostly... Really need some 16x10s.

Hope to see some Hybridz people out there. There were a bunch of s30s at the last event at Chuckwalla. TJ

Installing those long wheel studs I always wanted. Replacing the motor mount that caught on fire.. New rockers installed and cam re-dresssed (Calmate' cam!!) Next NASA ST3 race March 15 & 16 at WHP with the 275 Hoo-Hoos... Maybe the brakes will hold up this time.