duragg

A lot of options and check with your sanctioning body. For me (www.nasaaz.com) in "Race Group" I am legal with a handheld and so anything else I have is optional. I will keep a small 1.4lb Halotron in my door bar for compliance and tactical purposes. It's clean, portable and easy to use. The home style ABC is not appropriate anywhere on a race track, but in a pinch is slightly preferable to a car-b-que. It's a horrible mess to clean up. AFFF is soapy foam, effective and easy to refill on track with a spare kit. I think it is especially suited for engine compartment as it coats everything and won't blow away as easily at speed or if a fan is running. Hose it off, refill, fix problem and race again. I wouldn't really want it in the cockpit since it will make your driving suit a big wet nasty mess. 5lb systems are around $400 bucks. Clean Agent like "FE36" is nice for in-cockpit use since it won't make a mess to clean up. These systems are about $400 for a 5lb SFI label system complete with all hardware. I will have one nozzle in engine and one in cockpit mostly for compliance reasons. But I consider it primarily for cockpit usage. There are times and places for each of them, and potentially all of them. - A tire-booger smoldering on the header or a nearby car burning? Handheld. - A clear & serious engine fire? Let the AFFF flow and soak it all down. - Rolled over and tumbled 2 miles back on the track alone, upside down and on fire? AFFF first? Then deploy the FE36. Standby on the handheld and pray for help as you drop your nets, remove the steering wheel, identify the exit path, release harness and GTFO.

Ok where am I... A little followup, yes the TTT front arms and TC rods are about 4lbs heavier each side than stock. Nice adjustability. Indestructible? Rebello Race motor.. Threw a rod on Cylinder #5 and destroyed itself 10 hours after installation. Shipped back to Rebello. Waiting for them to figure out where we go from here. Hoping for a good outcome (within reason on both sides). It was a great motor... Pulled for days. Perfect for my 9:1 class. Backup motor is 80hp less and was leaking oil at the block breather fitting and caught fire in Qual when I got back to the pits. Thought we fixed it but 5 minutes into the Saturday race it caught fire again and I had to make a full lap of flaming Meatballs to get to the pit and extinguished again. No major damage. Melted some carb fittings and a some of the extinguisher agent from the first fire messed up a valve so I rebuilt the head. Should be ready for action by this time next week and we go to Spring Mountain for the next race. I have now been on fire four (4) times. I am installing 2 new fire systems. A 5lb AFFF system for the engine bay only , and a 5lb "FE36" system for me (also with one engine nozzle). Plus I will still have a small handheld Halotron. Overkill I suppose. Power. Whats next. I have acquired yet another L28 N42/N42 and an Eaton M90 Supercharger but I have no idea what to do with them... haha

I want to block off the silencer holes too... Weeeen// weeeeeeEEEEENNNN /// WEEEEEEEEEEEEEN

What you want is LSD. For me that came in the form of an R200 so I ran with it. R180 is lighter by a fair bit. I think either can take a lot of abuse. 3.90 is fine. You need to keep your eyes on tire diameter. There is an online calculator to help figure all that out.

I just assumed that I wanted an m90. Incorrect? I need about 275whp for long durations. Racing 30min to 3 hours.

THanks XNKE... I think you are right. But the seller swears he pulled it from an 2001 Pontiac. Oh well for $100 bucks its ok. I'm probably going to copy your lead here. Thanks for the great documentation. Tom.

U sure it's not m90? Pulled from a Bonneville. Looks identical to yours.

Ahh I see it now. Been reading the various pros / cons about where to put the throttle plate. I mocked up my blower in the car with my old motor just for the heck of it. Looks SWEET...

What did you do for the outlet? Did you adapt or make something?

Resurrected.. Just bought an M90..

Yes, perfect. Both the 15/16 and this Wilwood had the check valves. Oops. Removed. I had to lengthen the booster piston by about 3mm. Won't get to drive till next week.

For whatever reason, finding m12*1.5 in the exact thing I needed was a challenge. Comically so. Maybe its an Arizona thing.

/\ Tony has good point. I did the M12 x 1.5 ARP studs and finding suitable lug nuts was a PITA. I needed small O.D. With external splines and open ends and the M12x1.25 would have been easier to source.

Mostly finished the new Airdam this weekend and kicked it out wider to cover the tires and may look at some off the shelf "dive planes" also. For all the radiuses in the ABS you see here it requires no thermo forming. The inlet ducting did need heat and I just used a few heat guns to get it just pliable. Pretty amazing stuff. While I am serious about car and the progress and the modifications... we are also having fun. The Splitter is still under review, although I really like the idea of finishing closing up the inlet ducting. Splitter mounting scheme is looking good... 2 horizontal male / female pins in the back by the steering rack, the splitter just slides into those, then lift up and 2 more vertical m/f pins receive the front of the splitter and take cross pins or cotter pins to secure. Then the stay-rods in front which are still under review by the committee... (burp)

The Airdam is that .125" ABS I think. Molds under heat, flexes nicely but ultimately cracks when abused. No intention of measuring the splitter in any scientific way. I may not even run it for a while. But mocking it up anyway. I break a lot of stuff and if I go off track and snowplow through gravel it would be ugly.

Had to replace damaged air dam and we mocked up a splitter also. Looks mean....

Bolts tight?

I doubt the TTT stuff is heavier than stock. And certainly by no meaningful amount. Spherical bearings instead of bushings and the ability to "square up" the front end which I was missing. I looked at all of them and was shy of aluminum, that is not an area I want to save weight.

I've only run 275/35 R6 HooHoos. Never the Slicks. But since I have to drop 70hp I can add more tire and stay in the class hunt. This past weekend we used a heat-gun and I made camber changes. Ya know I wasn't that scientific. I moved the camber till the temps were even...

/\ All the other bearings looked perfect, I suspect an assembly problem. But Rebello is going to inspect and render a verdict - no doubt I caused it somehow. Bearing failed, Bolts followed, Rod departed crank. Going back to my original green motor and maybe drop some weight and run true slicks to stay in the hunt.

When the Rebello motor threw a rod on Sunday it cracked the oil pan in a few places. I have the Arizona Zcar oil pan and I reached out to Dave at Arizona Z Car (http://www.arizonazcar.com/) for a new baffle cover and he offered to replace it at no cost. I certainly didn't expect that. Dave is a good and fair businessman. The cast aluminum pan itself will be repaired and live on..

I think that was me that melted a boot... The TTT units are boxes of steel and I just think they look to be the strogest irrespective of weight.

Ok so next is Front Lower Control Arms. Techno Toy Tuning look really strong @ steel. For racing, jumping and bouncing sideways through the desert this is desirable. Silvermine, AzZcar, Datsun Parts LLC and some others all look aluminum with potential weaker areas especially around the attachement of the T/C rod to the LCA. Not all are adjustable without removing bits / but that is a non-negotiable item, they have to be adjutable. Thoughts? Tj

Threw a rod 25m into the race. Rebuild in process. Red Flag came just after I crossed start / finish line so I held my #7 overall spot.