duragg

I have grown a lot of respect for these motors. Pretty tough motors. Why not just run it... Its probably got another 200,000 miles left in it. Unless you are adding power which is a somewhat involved process.

Not sure this is the best place to post this, but relevant to the topic of: Whats the air doing. Before: Oil cooler sat alone about 2" in front of radiator which was fine for street driving. But on a road course after 20M of 4000-8000 RPM things get different. The idea was smooth airflow through OIl then Water radiator. So I made a little dog-house duct from 1/8" ABS plastic and created a zone for the air to smoothly pass through Oil Cooler, then Radiator without a turbulent zone in between. In the long run I would ditch this (brand new) Arizona Z-car radiator and get something real wide and short for Maximum ground clearance and to take advantage of the inlet area which is wider than tall. One must give credit to modern cars which run all day long and never overheat... using dinky looking 1" thick radiators and relatively small inlets and outlets. The major auto manufacturers have cooling solved and there are good lessons there I am sure.

New news to me. Been wanting to do this same job. Good timing. Tj

Mine would land in San Diego for $1000 Else I'd just rather keep it. Pulled it from an LD28 with my own hands. Its in my Air Conditioned shop in Phoenix. Tom

I ran those mesh screens the last weekend at Inde racing 3 days in a row. Did about half With and half Without. And on day 3, I ran 4 cylinders with them and 2 without haha... Still hoping I might find them in the tranny tunnel or on the headers but they are probably gone. I couldn't tell any difference.

I think NASA ST3 I can do about anything I want, which is why I chose it. "To showcase my ideas". You are saying pull that whole black business off and see how that works. Was trying to dig up previous wind-tunnel data: What is pressure under car? (Low / High / just plain Angry) Anything going INTO inlet duct needs a strong and proper motivation to LEAVE? Sides and Top seem better than bottom? Ideally we would want low pressure under hood trying to draw through radiator versus backing it up.

Jon my turbo hood scoop is installed backwards with a little kicker at the front of the naca duct. It should only be acting to vent OUT. there is no "catch" to pull air in. I have 3" holes in each fender, probably need more like 1 square foot on each side? Was going to add another vent to right side of hood too. Interestingly, I am still popping hood latch, and also the 2 Quik-Latch Minis on each side. I do find cooling seems better once I crash over a curb and the hood finally "blows" open to the manual catch. There must still be significant pressure there. The tunnel feels hotter now also, hotter than I remember.

On track this past weekend the new spoiler thing worked great. Felt much less aero lift and understeer. 3" off the ground worked just fine even with me hammering across burms and over rocks. I am still getting warm coolant after 10+ minutes at "War Power" even with that huge aluminum radiator. Once I slow down the temps come down SUPER fast. Going to try a restrictor instead of T-stat. Going to vent MORE from underhood via additional hood vent and bigger fender vents. Maybe a front / bottom plate thing? Looked like i was up around 210f with an 18psi cap and 192 T-stat. About a cup of coolant in overflow from entire weekend.

The old heart-breaker 240Z.. haha LOL Inde!!!!

Lied: 7.5lbs

Honored... Thank you.. I think it is .125" ABS. Maybe 3-5 lbs worth? Not much. I made an Aluminum former (1/16" angle aluminum with 3/4" legs) to reinforce the front and follow the profile of the hood, then relaxed it all with the heat gun. I also left the fiberglass airdam as a structural support. I wanted it to be strong enough to hold up, but still able to break-away should the need arise. I was having problems with my hood latches popping before (and over cooling) but now I have much less intake air and hopefully less aero-lift. Leaving Thursday for NASA Competition school at Inde, Willcox AZ so it will get the full trial by fire. Right now I have it about 3" off the ground and it is rubbing on some bumps even with my 425lb front springs.

Bypass screw is correct. Match your linked barrels first, starting with your master arm, then slave arms. Then you can use the bypass screws to match the other barrel on the same carb.

Ok that ABS plastic is my new favorite toy. Made a flat front airdam. Then made a molded radiator inlet plenum. Up early to finish it up today.

I just went through this during connection of my (err.. Mike's) Accusump On mine the adapter hose ports point straight up and the rear one was out and marked with an arrow on the side of the housing. The in was towards front of the car. Since I was installing a check valve I needed to be sure and with hose and ignition off I cranked the engine to be sure.. Tj

I emailed Quik-Latch this morning about the problem. Just now (Sunday..) I got an email from Brian saying he wants to try some different springs and is shipping me some other parts to try. YES! Customer Service FTW!!! Way to go Quik-Latch. ... now about that overload of excess air pressure... Tom

I mounted 2 at the rear corners where the old rubber bumpers were. I am back to my stock latch (which doesn't hold either). Aero lift...? (Yuk)

The Quik-Latch Minis are not holding. At 80 to 100mph the hood pops open. I have 2 mounted and they close and latch securely. Reminds me to do more aero work.

The columns flops down readily when the 4 bolts are loosened. Doesn't seem to mind the movement at all and the joints up ahead all seem perfectly happy..

I was able to pull the column down about an inch or more with spacers and the height is perfect. With the new NRG 2.5 Quick Release it (the steering wheel) is a bit too far back (towards driver) so I will swap to a more flat wheel and should be good. Thanks all.

Custom may be the final outcome. In the interim it doesn't sound like there is any rocket sciene preventing me from stealing what I can as long as the action is smooth, free and safe. Thanks all.

Track only car with a Quick Release... I want the steering column even lower. So I loosened the 4 attach bolts and put in 1/2" spacers (Actually since it is at an angle the ones closest to engine are shorter. I want more. Question is, How far can that be pulled down? Guess I need to just see what the whole business looks like once tweaked lower. Anybody been here before? I searched a good 20m and found nothing. THx.

I'm sorry. It was a smartass remark that you should harvest the LSD to put in your S30...

If it has an LSD pull that.. (j/K)

Gee that looks expensive..

THis the one you are referring to JohnC? I'm trying to create some meaningful stiffness and yet stay on my timeline for completion by the end of this month. So I thought maybe triangulating back to those ribs like I mocked up below might bridge the gap. I have the T/C box area all reinforced and the Bad-Dog frame rails.