duragg

Posting from yesterday pics. Deletion of Brake Proportion valve. Just made new lines and connected all straight for now

Posting from yesterday pics. 280Zx rears. And a new brake line. This was a 12" piece from Orielly. I didn't like the NAPA brand tube at all. Lots of clearance around the spinny parts.

Oh, and the clunk from the rear is gone. The one I was blaming on worn stub axles. I swapped to the 27spline type for this conversion and now just have a take-up clunk in the 4.375 R200 CLSD which I hear is common. But all the rest is clunk-free for a while.

Done. Running again. Pics later. I have about 1.5" below the threaded collar to go lower on front, that should be ok, Brakes are still full of air as I couldn't bleed well with just me and a Mity-Vac. 250f / 225r springs are by no means bone-jarring. With I would have stuck with my initial idea and gone stupid stiff like I wanted, but now its easy enough to swap so we are in good shape. Thanks for all the help to all, hopefully this helps somebody else down the road. Still have my stock 14" turbines on at the moment.

The cut goes up to the body crease. Its about 3". Timing issue meant I needed to get the coilovers in and back on the wheels. Then I need to make sure these 15x10s are really what I want, set the ride height I can live with. Finalize any further fender tweaks and fab the flares. I still need to go back and do some stitch weld clean up, seam sealer and pick up more rattle cans. This ain't a pretty car... function only.

Got my S12w installed last night. For sport I checked and my 14x6.5 "turbine" wheel fit fine. The hub area JUST licks at a caliper fin so I zipped that fin down with a grindr.

and yeah, I reviewed all of the Hoke posts, yours and other DIYs for months, and finally decided I just needed to cut and move on with life- Right or Wrong. I had a greater need to get "Close" than "Perfect" at this time. I really don't want a belly scraping Z. But a functional hot-rod.

Mocking up the POS ZG Flares, they just wouldn't sit any higher. I did all I could for now. I am going to make my own flares anyways, AMG DTC touring car style. Its not the end of the world if I have to cut more and re-weld. But I needed to get the coilovers installed and on the ground to make some progress and clear space in the shop. Front is all done. Just need to fab one last Brake line to connect to the flex-line. Not quite sure how I want the alignment of the tube and hose (I messed up and deleted the tube fitting on the strut for the brake line standoff). Rear is mostly done. Need to fit the P/B cable and finalize the new Steel lines. Brake lines are fun. I forgot how much I enjoy making custom lines. Needs: * Assistant... * To show up... * Bench bleed M/C * New steel lines from switch to the old deleted BPV with unions. * Hack front right fender for tire clearance to at least get driving. * Once driving with the final ride height I can tweak any last fender issues and make some trick custom flareZ. Ciao.

Here:

All four corners stripped and all 4 replacement assemblies installed. This part of the job is TOTAL cake once the struts are all built.

I'm for sure committed to S12W and 280zx rears no matter what. Have to make something work. Thinking.... Why not run an end-mill into the front pads to degrade them a little? Why bother putting in my Wilwood PV at all? Or I will just start cross drilling hole in the rotors... Thx for ur input. Sounds like no easy kill with pads.

Darn housework!! Today was gonna be my "big push" day.. instead I am cleaning windows.

Jacked. Drained. M/C removed. Front left strut assembly removed and new one installed. Hopefully a helper tomorrow and bust out the other 3.

Installing the 280ZX rear calipers on my 240 and trying to pro-actively avoid some of the Bias problems associated with the Toyota S12W front caliper combination. I've never bought "race pads". I was going to try to install some very aggressive rear pads to help improve the bias. Wo what are good "race pads"? Porterfield the way to go?? They have a Full Race R4 pad, or a Hi-performance Streed R4S pad? Any input on which would have maximum stopping power without needing to get warmed up or be filthy / noisy?

190rwhp n/a car and I used the 240mm flywheel and the Arizona Zcar clutch that Dave sells. Pedal feel is totally normal. Perfect for daily driver. Good takeup and good feel. However I usually just dump it and let the tires work out the details. Not sure at what h/p it would slip? Or fail to engage crisply.

Having a Z called ROPOS makes this job much easier. Its all a little ugly till its done, then it gets repainted and hides under flares so here goes. Sunday morning: 11:28am Die grinder with a 5" wheel and the first rough cut: 7 minutes later... Trimmed up and cleaned up now, ready for heating and beating. I F'd a bit around the top and didn't leave enough lip of the inner frame, I didn't want to cut up any higher... no worry. 30 minutes from start I was here. Started stitching and working the material up and around, tack and go. Welder was at around 17V and 108% If I recall. 40 minutes in since the start and making progress quicky. The hard part is just ahead of me where I screwed up the material. Worked past the thin spot by just tacking the inner and outer layers where they "V'd" together. One hour total time. Will seam-seal this weel and touch up any *really* ugly weld areas. Now the actual coilover swap can begin in ernest as follows: Swap the 15/16 Master Cylinder. Delete the stock proportioning valve and install adjustable willwood in its place. Remove and replace front coilovers, axles brakes and arms which are all built up and just need bushings and bolts. Rig, bleed, test brakes. Do donuts with new 15x10s. Final part is the custom flares and a fresh coat of rattle-rattle..

Each rim will be so different. My new S12w swap needed the inner curve of the caliper shaved with a grinder to clear the hub. Wasn't much, and they are free. Tire choices really suck in 15". Basically stops at 225/50x15.

Life.... Keeps interrupting my Coilover project. And the rear fender cutting and welding was mentally blocking me. So today I just cut the lip off, snipped back the outer part, sliced the inner, banged it together and made some sparkies... Tomorrow will do the other side (actually probably not with family still in town). Once both sides are done and cleaned up I will shoot seam sealer all over and move on.. I do believe I am a redneck, thank you. Had to keep cutting till I got into clea metal. There must have been 10 different shades of paint under the green..

Poor spelling,sorry Link: http://forums.hybridz.org/topic/100267-green-machine-gets-a-new-motor/?hl=green+machine

Look for my thread "Green machine gets a new motor" I did a very mild port job. Matched the head to the intake for smooth transition and knocked off the bigger ridges. The L490 Isky cam has been good to me, but its a 4-7k situation. Look forward to pix.

I use Total Seal rings on everything. Manufactured in USA about a block from my office. You must use their special install tool though, or don't bother. Used them on my NA 11:1 Z motor and several blown very large displacement off road engines.

Shouldn't be, but in reality it rarely works like that. Different fuel pressure and supply, different heating of the carbs, mistakes during removal and installation, different ignition setup. Not insurmountable, but don't expect a perfect transition. I've removed, rebuilt, rejetted, reinstalled and retuned DCOE enough times to be respectful of their finicky nature. ... has been my experience. I love mine, but they "own" me.

The carbs will fight you on the transition to the new car until you conquer their spirit. Rebuild kits are cheap and they are simple. You need to know how it all works anyways, so just do it yourself if you can. Looks like a smoking deal, as long as you know they don't have to behave the same way in the new car as they did in the old car. Buy them gifts, shower them with praise, have a party ... just don't piss them off like I did.

I did the same thing. Got used calipers and ordered the rebuild kits, then saw rebuilt calipers (painted, warranty and all) for about the same money. Just took the pretty rebuilt calipers. Next best option is a small ez-out. Tj

I shaved mine. Wish I went with arizona zcar one now. Not enough