CArFAn

I want to try and make one of these too seeing how i dont and will never smoke. but hmm where will i put my change....

Pull down back, thats how i got mines free. I'm sure you have it out by now though.

Put all of the brown widows in the same terrarium and see what happens. Just make sure none escape into the garage.

Had a thought about doing it, but decided against it because there was no direct focus of airflow going into the carbs. By cutting it like that it seems that the air would just run over and under the filter and not as much would get into the carbs.

Going to run it like that?

Running Open Header for the 3rd time just because i got bored. Here is the vid. Takes for ever to start.

I was thinking the same thing, do you charge each battery or is it 2 terminals that run a charge through all of them and like careless said what is the charge time.

I think subaru did that already with the svx.

believe it or not i seen one of those today while at sherwood mall. It was green though.

http://www.carburetion.com/Weber/weberlinkage.asp

If you have a rc hobby store you can measure the lenght of the the part you need and go in with that measurement and buy a few turnbuckles. They look to be the same type take one of those plastic balls on the end with you and see if they have any that size. If not then go to the jy and pull some from a z. I think this is what your talking about. Example.

Well after all the wait it finally came at 8:07pm today. Here are pics of the car one solid color and before and afters of the engine bay.

Good news finally, I called today and got the tracking number. Turns out they shipped it yesterday around 4pm and its on its way. I checked on the fedex site and it shows that it should be here tomorrow. Thing is i have school at 10am so if it comes there will be no one to sign for it. I might have to leave a note telling the driver to leave it at the back gate.

I updated the album for a school project so none of them are good i will post the new one in this post. http://s64.photobucket.com/albums/h182/pimplane2004/S30/

So here is an update i finished sanding everything and it is one solid color. I plug all the holes on the balancer tube and i removed all the smog equipment. I had order some headers from MSA and well, heres the story on that. The first time I ordered parts from Motor Sport Auto, also known as MSA, I found out that they do not take customers needs into consideration. The problems I ran into when dealing with them was there website. There website shows that everything is in stock, however when I ordered my 3-2 headers I got a call the next day saying that I could save a few bucks with the shipping because it usually took 2-3 days to get from their location to mine since we were both in Stockton. Then we got to the headers we were talking and I was told that they were backordered. I said well okay when do you expect them in, the guy nick, I believe it was said that they were due in stock any day this week. I asked him to give me a call when they come in. Keep in mind I ordered Monday 3/30/08 I call back Friday, nick answers again, I asked did they come in because I needed the so I could get my car on the road ASAP. He says they did not come in and they couldn’t come in because their shipping and I guess receiving department was closed. So I waited till Thursday 4/10/08 to give them some time. I call and there is a different guy that answers. I asked did they get the headers in and if so did they ship them. He replies by saying they have not got them in yet. At this point it has been 2 weeks and I’m getting annoyed of false statements. So I waited till Saturday and I called again, someone else answers I asked did they get the headers in yet. He says that they got them in and they are being assembled in the warehouse, good news? No, since they don’t ship on Saturdays I still wouldn’t be able to get them for another couple of days. I called on 4/14/08 at 3pm and I was told that they are waiting on the Fedex driver to come pick them up. I know that there are only a few companies that still keep parts for our cars in stock, but almost 3 weeks wait time for one thing I feel is not cool. I hope it was shipped out today and I can get my car running and on the road by Friday. Hope that's clear to understand and i would "highly" suggest anyone that orders from them to call and make sure that they have what you need in stock.

(since i cant show pictures i suggest remember how everything looks) As written on the paper: Prior to working on any ignition lock always disconnect the negative battery cable as a safety precaution. It is possible to replace the cylinder with the lock assembly is still in the car. However, we recommend it be removed for service. To remove it you must drill out two of the four bolts holding the lock in place. These can be replaced with appropriate size metric allen bolts or shear head bolts from your car dealer. Step 1: Carefully pry off the end of the lock cylinder. Its a snap fit. Step 2: The lock cylinder is retained with a steel pin. It is visible in the casting. Remove the plastic buzzer Switch. Then center punch and drill a small hole in the lock cylinder in line with the pin. Pry out the pin with an awl or ice pick. Do not lose it. You will need it to retain the new cylinder. When the pin is out far enough to grab, use a pair of pliers to draw it completely out of the housing Step 3: Slide the lock cylinder out. BE CAREFUL! Do not lose the spring or other small parts for the safety lever. Step 4: Assemble the safety lever to the new lock cylinder. Step 5: Place the tail piece on the end of the plug and slide the completed assembly into the lock housing. Step 6: Verify that the safety lever spring is positioned correctly before fully seating the cylinder into the housing. Reinstall the cylinder retaining pin. Install the key reminder alarm switch. Make sure that the buzzer switch reed electrical contact fits into the slot in the plastic "C" shaped actuator. Snap the face cap onto the end of the lock housing; a plastic hammer should be used to prevent the surface of the cap form being damaged. Info comes from "Lockworks" instruction booklet.

My dad should be here in a little while, i will scan and post the instructions on how to remove it. Then you can inspect the cylinder.

It sounds like the key is turning inside of the cylinder, but not making contact with the switch at the bottom. I wish i had pics to show what im talking about. I got my ignition cylinder with 2 keys for 18$. The cylinder that i had in there had already been replaced but they didn't put back any of the holder pins and the little plastic piece that sit on top of everything. I tried to practice on one at the local JY and couldn't get it out to save my life. I have an instruction page that came with my new cylinder i could scan it, but its going to be later tonight when my dad gets off. As for the switch there a 3-4 screws on the back the ignition assembly where the actual switch is. You can pull it out and swap it with one from the JY. If that dosn't do anything it might be in the wiring. Im not an expert and take from this what you want, im just saying how i fixed mine. Hope i helped. -Carfan

You think it might be the ignition cylinder instead of the switch? Where the actual key goes into.

Happy B-Day...

I have a hpi rs4 (original belt driven) with a Os 12 ported,2spd, and piped. I can beat just about anything to a 0-60 race.

I never actually made it i just seen it and thought if someone needed it i would be able to show them. As for the blow off valve and boost sensor i do not know but i do know that you will need a boost gauge accurately show what boost you are at so you will not over boost and kill your motor. Im not expert on turbo motors I'd wait for someone more knowledgeable to chime in on this.

Had this bookmarked as a "just in case". http://www.geocities.com/chmwatson/FAQs/mbc.html