hwvigo

. Old school eagle alloys 15x7.5

Thanks for the info guys. You have been a big help as always.

Could having the washer on and not needing it cause a clunk?

I am going back in with all my suspension and have come to the realization that I do not know if I should use the gland nut washers on my car. The whole reason I pulled it apart was to get rid of the clunk I had and after some digging around I found that the whole thing might be due to the gland nuts not being tight or the use of the washer that came with the Tokico blues I installed a few years ago any help would be great. car info : 1975 280z , Tokico hp blues,(( msa? lowering springs just being installed)) Thanks ! Will S. with out washer in with washer Gland nut wrench

Quick update right front all back together looks so much better. Did not like how faded the tail light bezel was so I plasit-diped it and it came out very nice like the look of plasti-pid on pieces like this one. I also pulled the big ugly rear bumper off not just got to get the bumper shocks off heard it can be a real PITA well that’s all till next time true believers!

That is one of the most stunning looking exhausts I have ever seen done the fit is perfect the execution is flawless I would go as far as to say it is elegant.

Looks very close to me I would say hitting the mark almost dead on .

Having a beautiful Z you can drive in the lovely spring weather is overrated right …..RIGHT. The diff is back in the car after spending a few day tracking down the right bolt to go with my diff adapter pate to diff that is and the modding them to fit the holes, along with grinding down my gm trans mount for the r/t mount ( wow that makes a mess) and making the choice to use the azc solid diff mount along with the r/t style I had made I know its redundant but I was getting frustrated at this point I I knew if the acz mount fit the r/t was right so both it is for now. And it worked everything looks good my silly adapter plate clears the sway bar. So I bolted the half shafts up no problem and the the drive shaft and of course I was missing one drive shaft bolt and it happens to be a weird size bolt ((m10x1.0 x25mm with a 14 mm head )) that I can no find using my best Google fu. So I moved on at this point the car is almost derivable all it need is the rear brakes bled and on the road. So you know what I did …. Pulled the front end apart and that is where I am at now official start of the front end refresh. Just got all my new parts in ball joints tie rod ends and rack boots , once aging I can’t wait to get it on the road. also got my 5 point installed and found some e-tape on the front sway bar to make up for wrong size front bushings. If you guys could please help me track down a bolt this size it would much appreciate it ((m10x1.0 x25mm with a 14 mm head)).

Installed 5 point because my lap belt will not fly at the track. and tried to figure out my new cooling problem thought i had it done with new rad and water pump but nope sbc gen1 cooling is straight forward and i am getting close to 200 with hood open and fans on .... thems the brakes

Well this was a weekend of ups and down for the Z but let’s start with the positive. As mentioned in my last post I did not like the way I had tackled the fuel filter. I decided to build a holding bracket based off the original fuel pump bracket , having one handy I made a cardboard template to test the size and idea and it looked dead on so I found a piece of scrap plate from work that just happened to be the exact size I needed. After the metal was sourced I needed to find a way to tackle the lip on the filter so after some poking around in a scrap pile found a piece of delrin to use and a good mounting point and a capacitor holder to lock the filter in place with some rubber hose as a insulator and a few holes bends and bolts later I have a very nice mounting solution. Got it all painted up and installed with new lines and am much happier now. After I finished up that little project I was set on getting the Z back on the road driving. So I got the sway bar on and the struts all put back together and back in the car. I had forgot how much of a PITA getting the spindle pins lined up is add new poly bushings and poof there goes 35 minutes of your life. All that aside I got the strut assembles back in place and bolted up, and am very happy I spent the time to clean and repaint all the components came out looking great. At this point I was very happy everything was just going together like it should, and then came the drive shaft and adaptor I went to put the adaptor on my diff and came to the realization that my sway bar was in the way. After looking at it all and romping through the r/t diff mount threads I found that this happens sometimes due to the es mount being to tall and couple that with me putting washers were they did not need to go and there is my problem. So this lead to the removal of the diff with r/t mount once more I believe I am coming very good at R&Ring the diff. So I pulled it and decided I could do a better job on mounting the adaptor plate out of the car bur I did not have my dial indicator with me and I only had 3/8 bolts to mount it and I wanted to do it right so the diff would need to wait a few days to be all finished and reinstalled. On the other hand all my car needed was the wheels put on to be a roller and I could see how it looks lowered in the back so the wheels got slapped on and the jack stand removed and the Z is on its own legs once more and I am one happy guy. The combo of the shorter top hats and lowering springs lead to now only having 2” of wheel gap in the back with no gas and no diff in the car and I will need to roll my fenders a touch even though I am only running a 215/60/15. I rolled the car out of the garage and was able to do some much needed cleaning of my work space along. All and all not a bad weekend and I cannot wait to see how it looks lowered all around. new fuel filter bracket and painted and installed back on her own four feet

http://www.qscomponents.com/38EcoPHBConeBung058.html Is the source of the rod ends, and were I got my idea to use them was based off the TTT https://technotoytuning.com/nissan/280z/rear-strut-tower-brace-datsun-240z-260z-280z and they make good parts. And once installed you just twist the bar till it snugs up good and tight and set the lock nuts and its good and solid.

The weather has been beautiful for the past week but sadly I have had very little time to get work done on the car but I did get a few things done. Got the rlca in place and all torque down, replaced the old fuel lines from tank to hard line and installed a fuel filter in line not 100% happy with it I want to fab up a bracket to mount it . but for now its k the old lines were so brittle they snapped off when I tugged on them crazy scary when I think I have been driving with them , and with further inspection found them to be the cause of the trash I have been getting in my pre carb filter. Also got the brake drums cleaned and painted along with getting the rear strut tower bar finished out and painted up and throwing a quick cote of cheap black on the exposed section of the gas tank for now till I have it refinished. I am very happy with the outcome of the strut tower bar and have done a write up on it in the weld and fab area. And I found one of my rear Tokico to be blown and is being replaced with a KYB for now. Old fuel line new line with filter not loving the way I did it will change More back in place getting so close Finshed rear strut tower brace Fresh coat for the drums Cheap coat for the tank but it dose look better from the back will be doing a full refresh on tank when I have time and money.

Hello im Will and this is my first post in the weld and fab area. About a month or so ago I started looking at rear strut tower braces for my 280Z, and found that they were a little pricey. So I set off to build my own and this is what I was able to come up with. Materials 0.875” cold roll steel bar for center bar , 3/8 rod ends with weld bungs and cone spacers from QS Components for adjustability , 0.115” steel plate for mount , 3/8 grade 8 mounting hardware , black plasitdip for center bar, and black wrinkle paint for mount. The build. The whole thing started with piece of steel bar and some cardboard and I idea of “ ya I can do this “ . strut bar? mounting plates cardboard version traced on to plate and cutting out cut and then cleaned drilled& test fitting more strengeth was needed so I made the chioce to add some gussets to the sides. The rod end kit i got is made to work 3/4 dom tubeing and I wanted somthing a bit more stout so I used 0.875" cold roll steel bar drilled out to have a 5/8" wide 3/4" deep hole in the end to perfectly fit the weld bungs for the rod ends. This gave me a wall thickness of 0.130" much better then the 0.058" wall the bung was made to fit. Test fit before weld of bung and gussett All welded up and ready for clean up and paint. All painted and test installed ( no rear struts in car ) Over all came out good I think, and for the total price of $18.00 I am very happy. please feel free to leave any tips or pointers for my next adventure in welding and fab. Prints by HWvigo

Found this on jnc and had to share. http://japanesenostalgiccar.com/2014/02/25/os-giken-twin-cam-video/#more-31194

As I was a Texas motor vehicle inspector, I say get you nice fiberglass bumper no laws holding you back.

To my knowledge there is not.

Wow when I placed mine I was 10 out of 50 needed like Tony said untapped market!

The rears are made by Arita Speed I believe. And the fronts look to be a set of universal wide flares. http://www.aritaspeed.com/html/frp-27.htm

I picked one up the other day. Cool looking shirt

CV Adapters.ZIP Is this what you are looking for?

Got a little work done this weekend, one rear spindle striped primed painted and all put back together. With lowering springs and 240z top hats. I just love the way parts look when they are all clean. before 240z top hats after all painted looking clean

In theory its to stop rotation of the pin and just like the stock one did. I just wanted to give this a try, I have test fitted it and it seemed to work well but I will keep everyone up to date on if it works out in the long run.

Not to much going on with the Z this week , but I have got some work done on my rear strut bar and am very happy with it so far. All that is left to do is get it all painted up and then put the rest of my car back together. I also have been doing work on spindle pin replacements via the 5/8 bolt route and I finished that up this week too. 0.900" cold roll steel bar Getting the 5/8 hole dead center came out good 3/8 rod end with weld bung fits in the hole good test fit in Z more test bung welded in place bung welded in place plates welded bar almost done 5/8" spindle bolts

Can't wait to see were this ends up. I plan on ditching my v8 and doing a 1jz sawp.

I have a 75 280z with a sbc swap and I have been searching for info on where you v8 z guys are hiding the vacuum bottle and solenoids for the ac system. I really would like to clean up the look of my engine bay and the big bottle is a looks killer any help would be a big help thanks. Will S. p.s. check out my build thread rolling with the punches.