fastzcars

Here you go, take your pick! http://store.summitracing.com/egnsearch.asp?Ntt=spacers&N=700+4294923107+115+4294847663&Ntk=KeywordSearch

http://forums.hybridz.org/showthread.php?t=103847

I believe the picture is a OHC 4 cylinder, possibly a ford. The SBC system is viewed on the second video.

Since we are thinking outside of the box here, I was looking around on the net and found this on a SPRINGLESS valvetrain for a SBC? No RPM limit/harmonics/valve float? what do you think paul? http://www.decuirenginetechnologies.com/springlessvalve.php

heres a link to Pete's page. http://alteredz.com/240ZCVHalfshaftConversion.htm

Now THAT's cool Braaap!! being able to make your own motor from SCRATCH!!!! amazing!

I've been on Nitto's R555 drag radial's (245x45x17) and I keep blowing threw them upon anything above 1500 RPM, and my 60 foot times are at 2.08's to 2.09's. I know suspension setup is important to cut a good launch. Springs are 175 lbs f and 200 lbs R. struts are 5 way adjustable tokicos set at 1 front and rear. Bushings are all solid heim joints, no rubber anywhere. She tracks nice and straight. So I've finally broken down and I bought some 235x60x15 M/T ET drag radials. Since alot of you guys seem to like them. My question is, what pressures and what RPMs do you guys launch at? and what 60 foots do you get? Any info you guys can provide would be great! Thanks!!!!

I remember when I was lurking with A.O.L .:banghead:" you have mail"!!! :windows:Boy was I happy when I got DSL!!!!

Theres Design Products in Orange County> I have a set, very similar to EMI's . http://www.designproductsracing.com/

your right John. it's a load imbalance, your pulling more amps through one leg on the 3 phase circuit. The only way to be sure is to put an amp meter on the panel and reading through all 3 legs and see what your pulling through each and try to shift the load evenly across all 3 legs. Has edison replace the meter? maybe the meter panel has too much carbon buildup from the previous burn outs that it's causing resistance? Just a thought?

I posted this very subject, heres the link. http://forums.hybridz.org/showthread.php?t=137340

Your specs are right on the trany. Here some clutch kits to look at. http://store.summitracing.com/egnsearch.asp?N=700+4294865886+4294908216+4294908198+4294908395+4294925022+4294791101+4294787631+115+4294787397

Heres alink to a wiring diagram for a 73, it should help you. http://album.hybridz.org/showphoto.php?photo=2126

Congrats again! You know Hanns, I might just take the day off and go on friday! what time/day are you going?

In my own opinion, I've seen most axles fail at the base of the splines. I one picture from classic is a result of over torquing the axle nut! The pictures I posted are several examples I complied from members here, let alone other's that haven't posted pictures! Most if not all of them caused by drag racing style launches. But then it all depends on the loads people place on there cars. I'm sure if John C were to comment, he would say that weld joint at the base would be the weak link to the axles, since road racing would place a higher load on that part of the axle. So it all depends!

The Diameter is SLIGHTLY larger for the 280 stub. The width and depth of each spline are the same on both axles, hence the circumference is longer by 2 splines for the 280z.

Luis Flores San Gabriel, Calif 1973 240z SBC 383

Thanks for posting the pix mas280! Great install ! It looks like it came from the factory that way!

LS1 Z, it would be cool if you could post a couple of pix in this thread! I'm glad to see that you "approve" of the new parents of your baby!

Great picture of your car!!!Congrats Hanns! thank goodness that your face is hidden in that picture, other wise the local authorities might be looking for you:burnout: Then again a red Z with big ass meats is hard to miss! Congratulations again!

I have that MSD small cap dist. I'll check out the diam and post later on tonight.

Several people had commented on that! That's one of the reason's I would love to convert over my Z from a Gen1 to a LS3, The gas mileage!

From first hand experience, I have no regrets installing the vintage air unit. If there is one thing I would suggest is to remove the dash to install the evap. Trying to install it with the dash in will be impossible!

$100 for machining and welding? That's cheap! Machine shops around here won't even consider doing things like this for less than $200! Thanks for keeping us informed! It's great that we have other options.

WOW! someone had time on there hands!