fastzcars

I'll try to help. here's the link to a large copy of the whole wiring harness to a 240zhttp://album.hybridz.org/showphoto.php?photo=2126&size=big&cat=&si=wiring What color wires did you disconnect to get the lights to go off? It could be a bad combo switch , they are know to go bad. Now the head lights are being fed a constant positive 12 volts through the large RED and RED/YELOW wires from the fuse block. The red/blue and the red/white wires are actually the ground path for the lights. Ya I know it's a round a bout way of doing it, but hey that's the way the factory did it. So the means that there is a ground short of either the red/blue or the red/white wires. You could disconnect the combo light switch, to see if that is the problem. If you still have the problem after disconnecting the switch I would venture to say that you may have to untape the engine compartment wiring harness and see if you can find the grounding problem. Without a voltmeter/ohm meter you are forced to do a visual check of the all the head light circuits wiring. When I redid my wiring ,I found several wires from the old harness burnt to a crisp. Not to scare you , but the wiring in the z are over 30 years old, lot's of things may have been changed from previous owners and or just age of the wire insulation. Get a volt/ohm meter and we can help you further.

I was thinking the same way about routing the tubing . I had thought about using a semi wrap on the tubing and a metal sheild( kind of like a cat converter sheild) for the oil pan, in addition to a oil cooler. What do you think Douglas?

That was exaclly what I was looking for Bartman , Thanks! Thanks John for checking on your headers. A couple of pix would be great though.

Just wanted say , anyone else have any info?

Thanks John, heres an OLD post on the subject, Maybe the header you have could be what I'm lookin for? http://forums.hybridz.org/showthread.php?t=79112&highlight=180+degree+headers. and a more recent post http://forums.hybridz.org/showthread.php?t=110640&highlight=180+degree+headers.

O.k. guys I know this will sound wierd but I got an itch to try to make some 180 degree headers, I.ve tried the search but couldn't find any info on what 4 cylinders to cross over to make them? Does anyone know or have pictures of 180 degree headers for a SBC?

O.K. I'll bite , heres my car.

Wow !!! beautiful car! great job. And I even like the back ground.

Here are 2 pictures of my full cap. to tell you the truth you realy can't tell it's a cap. For a perfect fit Follow the directions to the "'T". only apply the silicone on the perimitor of the dash. store the cap in a cool place, if you hold on to it for longer than a month. The dash cap shrunk a bit in the heat in the back of my pickup truck. Oh and one more thing ,I would suggest to remove the gauges ,heater/ radio pod and the windshield/ defroster vent cover so you can get the cap to fit snuggly on the dash. and a couple of well placed black screws to hold it in place while the silicone sets. I hope that helps.

I just wanted to say "Welcome" mike. and I'm sure WE'LL be asking YOU questions when it comes to car prep! Again welcome aboard!

You took the words right out of my mouth Jon !

Just a thought 78zlt1, to gain a little more tire clearence you could increase your camber, provided you have camber plates?

Just to clearify that when they "duct pressurized cold air" to the carb, they are SEALING the carb to the hood scoop opening wth some kind of sealing box. The scoop is NOT open to the engine compartment, just the carb box.

My block has the one piece rear main seal and the flat tappet cam, but when I opened her up it had the bosses for the the factory roller cam retainer spider setup. So yes, the block change to the one piece rear seal was in 87.

I don't know if you guys saw this before, but this guy is NUTS! It's a little long at 8 minutes, but I think worth every second! And no I don't condone this type of driving. http://video.google.com/videoplay?docid=2851488008488190547&q=Ferrari

this isn't my car, but I here's one.

I hate to tell you this Nazar, but I don't think the 280 "ZX" stubs are the same size as the 240/280z stubs. I seem to recall the distance between the inner and the outer bearings are different. The good news is that the large rear nut CAN be used. Maybe you can remove your stubs and compare the 2 and give us the info and pix about the 2 stub axles. Maybe someone can chime in to confirm this?

I would check to see if you can get ALL the air out of the system. Heres how I do it, just jack up the front of the car and try to get the radiator cap opening higher than the thermostat housing, of course support the car with jack stands, then start the the engine and let it warm up and you will see air bulbs form at the radiator cap opening. Don't forget to turn on the heater ( if you hooked it up) to let the heater core perge air as well, and just let it idle for a couple of minutes. Just keep an eye on the level of the antifreeze. Does it cool down when the car is traveling on the freeway? If it does then you need more airflow threw the radiator. Get a electric fan WITH a fan shroud built in to it. Like a this one http://store.summitracing.com/partdetail.asp?autofilter=1&part=PRO%2D67015&N=115&autoview=sku or this one is even better http://store.summitracing.com/partdetail.asp?autofilter=1&part=FLX%2D180&N=115&autoview=sku What you want to do is have the fan shroud cover the radistor as much as possible, to get the maximum effect. Of Course there's the max effort fan from the Ford Tauras, That's the fan I'm running, that fan is a monster and pulls quite a few amps and it will suck small animals off the road. I hope that helps.

I hate you Alex! Just when I bump my motor up to 430, you gone and bumped it up to 500! Gee , gona HAVE to get the NOS now just to keep up with you!

Lambo, before you run out and get just any 275 tire , you should check out "The tire rack" website , They have a listing of all the physical dimension's of all the tire's specs. Not all tire's are the same size! Find out what manuf AND model Clifton is using. You'll be surprised at the physical size difference between tires!

O.K. heres a charts I got from DD performance. It shows that the LS1 bellhousing is longer than the LT1, it would stand toreason then That the LS1's input shaft should be longer? I'm still looking to see if I can find the actual sizes of both input shafts.

Thats cool then, I don't see anything else that could cause trouble. OH I did just think of one minor thing, just the master cylinder size and stoke. But that's minor.

It looks great! as far as adjustment, I only see one at the top? Does it adjust compression or rebound? Does it have to be disassembled to adjust either or? How about the internal parts, are they all custom as well? A couple of pix of the internals would be great! I would diffenetlly make them in stainless! What was the final cost?

Well the self adjustment of most HTO do have a limited range, and if you put a spacer to compensate for the input shaft the trust surface of the HTO maybe too far from the clutch hat fingers. All you can do is trial fit everything. That means install flywheel,hat,disc,etc... Then look through the access holes and see how much clearence you have. My gut feeling says that the input shaft will be too long, and the trans won't be able to bolt up to the motor. Does anyone here know when the LS1 started production in the f-bodies? I seem to remember 98 being the first year? If it is too long, I think it's best to just bite the bullet and have the input cut down to size. I know it's probably NOT what you want to hear, but remember that it's just my opinion! We got alot of experenced guys here and I'm sure someone else will have another idea. Wait, I just thought, what if you put the same thickness spacer under the HTO, that you would use to space off the trans? I think then that would work! Anybody else ?

I don't think it's a LS1 bellhousing you bought, but an LT1 bellhousing. Does the bellhousing bolt to your 1 gen block? Did you already have the trans? What year is the trans? If you can bolt the bellhousing to the trans, and the trans input shaft fits into the pilot bushing in the engines crank then I don't see why it wouldn't work. Your going to need to trial fit everything to gether and see if you get 40 to 60 thousands of clearence from the throwout bearing to the clutch hat fingers. I seem to remeber that the LS1-t56 has a different length input shaft compared to the LT1-t56. But I have been known to be wrong. If I were you I would call a couple of other t56 venders just to confirm that! Post some more pics with your progress. I would like to know if it does fit.