fastzcars

An Abbott and Costello impression ( Your a baaaad boy, silicone boy).

Sorry it took me so long to answer your question PopNwood. I don't have HEI, I have a small base/short cap billet MSD distributor. That's a very good question. I have to add that I'm not using the JTR 1/2 inch spacers that are used between the crossmember and the frame rails. That would account for the tight clearence of my air filter . Plus the hood latch bracket above the distributor is a custom made piece to add more clearence around the top of the distributor.

I know no one answered your question. But your answer will help out the next guy. Thanks for posting

So Paul, you've seen this setup for the 1st gen SBC from Magnuson?

Yup;)

This is really sad news. My prayers to his family. RIP Nazar

There are actually 2 different diameter racks. Early and late models which are the years 70 to mid 74 and 74 to 78. You may have the wrong bushings for your particular rack. The early style have a smaller diameter than the late style. Although both racks can be bolted to 70 to 78 crossmembers, with the proper bushings. Maybe that's why you can't get the bolts started.

Well according to the wiring diagram in the electrical section, it goes to the cig-lighter.

Wow, that looks nice. Like a brand new system. It should work great now. Thanks for posting the pix.

I thought the saturns were 5x115 mm ?

I beleive what you have a scarb conversion. What you will need to do the conversion to the JTR specs is to the get the whole JTR kit minus the radiater and possibly the headers, you won't be able to tell if your hedders will fit until the drivetrain is repositioned into it's new location. As far as the drive shaft is concerned, you will have to take it to a driveshaft shop to shorten it. The orientation of the input yoke will need to be precession welded and balanced, or else you'll have a nasty vibration. Each driveshaft shop has it's own proceedure on how to measure the new length required for the driveshaft.

They do bolt on, and you do need the whole thing including the glass. The window mech are different.

Hey Forces, I have the air gap intake, a K&N 1 3/4 inch drop base 3 inch air filter assembly and it JUST clears my hood. Although I did have to use a 1/4 -20 nut and washer instead of a proper air cleaner wing nut for keeping it on the carb. Don't ask me how I know this, lets just say I have a ding on my hood now.

I know some of you guys don't like the "Rice look" but how a bout team dynamics? They have a wheel that they are willing to have shippied from england as a blank and drill out for the Z. They have the right offset's and at a very reasonable price.http://www.teamdynamicsracing.com/pro-race/Pro-race12.htm

From what I recall, I think I had to grind a little for the steering shaft, but that was about it. Best thing to do is a trial fit of the JTR stuff and the prothane mounts. Here's a picture on my prothane motor mount

http://forums.hybridz.org/showthread.php?t=90747&highlight=mcmaster Here's a place, McMaster Carr. That's if your looking for JUST the door seals.

Wipers> O.k. lets see if I can tell you how it works. The motor has 3 speeds. high medium and low. The black wire is your ground to the case of the motor. the blue(high speed) Blue/red(medium speed) and , blue/yellow( lowspeed) are your postive 12 volts from the relay and combo switch. So to test the motor out you should place your negitive line to ground and the positive to any "One" of the blue lines. Do not connect the battery for testing to two blue lines at the same time, you could blow the motor. As far as the armiture turning. (m I'm going off memory now) I think the motor has a gear reduction box on it and it would be hard to turn the output shaft by hand. Another thing to check would be your ground line to the motor case. Even though the connection on my motor Looked solid ,the connector was on the sheithing of the wire and NOT the on the actual wire itself, thus a bad ground. Look for that. I hope that helps.

Hey, welcome aboard! Your car looks to be in pretty good shape! It's a nice start.

Well, heres the solution to your LSD cover delema,http://www.arizonazcar.com/brakes.html:razz:Nothing that a little money can't cure.

Great suggestions guys, keep them coming. I was thinking of a sudo x-pipe under the oil pan? What do you guys think of that route? Bartman , I know what you mean about " making children cry" . My kids go out and tell me that they get a headache from the 'thumping' that my car produces. It's actually pretty funny!

You have a point Zrossa. What don't other forms of motorsports use them. It could be the complexity of all the tubing criss-crossing and the ugly look of it all. But how much horse power are we talking about? Maybe 1 to 2 %. but what I'm after is the sound. I've actually had some positive comments on how my car sounds. I have block huggers to duel 2.5 inch to single 3.5 inch Y-conection to single borola muffler. But with the cam I have ,the lumpy sound is VERY pronounced. And it's ALMOST anoying to me. I kid you not, the windows of my house rattle when my car is idling in the garage, And it's a DETACHED garage 20 feet away! So I just want to even out the pulses.

Hey Doc, I'm sure you've already thought about it but it's just an idea. When I install my subaru powersteering rack it had a side benfit, it created more header space. Now I'm not saying to install PS. but how about and extension on the existing splined shaft out of the rack? or do what the Hot Rodders do and double joint the steering shaft?

I would check your hazard light switch. The turn signal's are going through this switch. as for the ground's there are some on the from frame rails, right next to the heading buckets. and the main ground line is on the passenger side frame rail, right below the battery box. That location is notoriuos for have problems beacuse of the battery acid running down the inner fender and no to the framerail. I hope that helps:D

Well it's true, to a point. The car is not a positive ground system just the head light circuit . I think they did it that way to reduce the current draw through the combo switch, but it didn't work as well as they hoped.

O.k. guys I figured it out, Thanks to bartman for the link and to some pictures of a pantera's custom header and it's firing order I got over the net , the pairing's on the SBC are 1,4,6,7 and 2,3,5,8. the 2 inner tubes on one bank goes to the other sides outer tubes and vise versa. Now that I finally figures that out I have to see if it's even possable to make it? I just love that exotic sound! Thanks Guys.http://www.revsearch.com/sounds/dodge450.wav