fastzcars

Here are the links , Enjoy! http://album.hybridz.org/showgallery.php?ppuser=8137&cat=500

I hear you Pete! In my case I had a t56 converted over to a t5 bolt pattern. ( I did this because the LS motors weren't out yet when I did my Z. I've been thinking about selling my Gen1 383 to get a LS3!

FYI, as the title says, it has GREAT info on how to install your egisting trans to a LSx motor! I've been looking for this info for a long time! I checked CarCrafts website and the issue's info isn't even on there yet! so you'll have to find a hard copy to find out the info. But 5 of the 6 bolt holes line up on the rear of the block, LSx crank flange is 0.400 further inboard( closer to the block) than the Gen1 blocks. The crank/flywheel bolt pattern is differnet between the early/late gen1 and Lsx cranks. So a special 168 tooth flywheel from Mccloud can be purchased to remidy both issues of the 0.400 offset and the bolt pattern! witch mean that a standard Gen1 11 inch Pressure plate and disc have to be purchased. (Not unless your already running a 11 inch PP/disc, then you don't )And then Finally a specail pilot bearing adapter will need to be added to the Lsx crank to support the trans input shaft. I'll see if I can scan the issue and post it later for all the part numbers needed for such a swap!

I knew that it was a good Idea when I started the swap! And I'm more than happy with the outcome. I'm glad to here that your enjoying your ride's guys!

Have you checked the date of the original post? It's FOUR YEARS OLD!!!!! Time to put it to rest. LOL

Hey Hanns, It's nice to hear from you Hanns! So you say " The right stuff " . Is it a silicone? or a varnish? I don't recall seeing it at the auto parts stores? Then again my memory isn't so good any more! I used the dark grey permitex silicone. So you have both valve cover breathers connected to a bottle? Do you have a PVC valve connected any where? Do you leave out the rubber/cork end gaskets? Whats your install technique? Hopefully we'll see you at Irwindale! Luis

Thanks for the input guys!!!! I'll be dimpling my intake!

Try giving Dave a call at Arizona Z! He's really helpful!

As the heading saids, I keep blowing the rear intake seal? I've got a sbc 383, I've got the PVC hooked up to the carb from the passenger side valve cover and a small K&N breather on the driver side? This is the third time it does it. The first time when I went down the track. The second when I decided to try to run without the PVC valve, It blew right away! Now the third time when I was reving it, after an adjustment to my carb. I know it has to be crankcase pressure buildup. Maybe I need a bigger K&N breather? Any input would be great! Now I have to take that intake off one more time.:cuss:Thanks for listening! Luis.

It kinda looks like the BMW M4 coupe? I LOVE IT! If you read the BMW's specs, it would read like a new 240z would be like!

As far as I know the Z was finished! But I never go the call from the builder that it was done! So I never got a chance to go back and get the final pictures! Too bad! I'll call the builder to see if he has any finished pictures( but don't hold me to it guys!)

Ask and you shall receive . Heres a link to the post It's in the FAQ section. http://forums.hybridz.org/showthread.php?t=103847

Sweet , sweet ride! Love the toyota's too! You do great work there.

As a person who actually done both swaps, I can give you some insight into both racks. I started off with the miata about 4 years ago because while I was at a junk yard finding parts for my Z, I saw a maita and the rack LOOKED very similar to the stock z rack! but it was 3 inches too long! I thought I'll just offset it to the passenger side to compensate for the extra length. So I bought it and proceeded to do the modifications to my car to install it. Now mind you the passenger side tierod assembly was 3 inches shorter than the driver side, but In my experiences driving it around town, I found no adverse affects of the different length tierods. The feel around city street speeds was great, but on the freeway it was a little twitchy. But I got used to it. Then I got into an accident alost 2 years ago and almost totaled the Z! While it was in the body shop I started seeing pictures here on HybridZ of the subi rack and how it was a much closer match fit to the stock Z rack. So I purchased a 2003 forester rack and proceeded to do the modifications to the crossmember to install that rack back into my Z while the body work was being done to my car. I was lucky that the body shop owner allowed me to work on my car while my car was in his shop! You know liability issues and all! Anyway, my car was finally finished and now I have to admit that the subi rack feels better than the miata. Although it was a harder install that the miata rack. The mods were more extensive but I think it was worth it. The steering around town has a better weighted feel to it and the freeway twitchiness is not as bad. I think you'll like the feel of it! I hoped that answers your questions! If there are any particular questions that I can answer , just P.M. me. Happy motoring!

That's way over kill! The most you'll probably need would be a 140 amp version.

It depends also on weather you have a long or short style of water pump. Heres a link to determine the kind of pump you have, then you can get the right one from the other websites. my personal one is the Summit Racing's own billet version. Heres a link to that one. http://store.summitracing.com/egnsearch.asp?Ntk=KeywordSearch&DDS=1&Ntt=alterator+bracket&x=28&y=9&N=700+115&searchinresults=falsehttp://www.edelbrock.com/automotive_new/mc/water_pumps/water_pumps_main.shtml

Search under "S&S" headers, there's been some discussion about them.

Hi there, Here's a site that I found that should help. I think it would be a great project!! the BMW plateform handles great, and if you happen to find a blown engine in one even better. Good luck Justinsamberg. http://www.vorshlag.com/E36ProjectBook.asp

Now THAT'S hot rodding at it's best!!! I would love to see the results from your efforts!! Oh ya, Welcome to HybridZ.

The issue Is not so much as the diameter of the shaft but the taper down to the spline's. If we keep the same diameter of the shaft but NOT introduce the taper but do a straight cut of the splines. Even reduce the depth of the splines would help the strength of that area.