Challenger

Got the intercooler and oil cooler mounted. Put a piece of cardboard up to see what it would look like. Ill be using sheet metal to duct everything and ill probably do something like that. I read a little about the arguments on where to put the IAT sensor. In the intake manifold seemed to be the most accurate measurement but you can get some additional heat soak from conduction. Luckily my sensor is plastic so I used a extra cold start injector for its flange and drilled out the intake so I could mount it right behind the TB. Also I decided to just do it right the first time with EDIS-6... stopped by the pull and save and got everything I needed for only $16!!! I was pretty happy. Took about 45 min and I had everything. Coil Pack from a dodge caravan 3.3 V6 Plug for the coil pack. Is there supposed to be a capacitor on one of the wires. I read in Zmancos sticky that there was one... EDIS controller, got off an Explorer, 4.0 V6 Its connector, still all together with the filter. VR sensor from an Escort. Got the connection too which had the shielded wire. Wasnt connected to the sensor side so I assume it grounds the shielding at the ecu.

Well the FPR might be the problem. Do you have a fuel pressure gauge on it where you can see how many psi your getting? You may not be able to reduce the fuel pressure low enough. One way to check is to pull off the regulator and see how many psi you get. There may be enough restrictions with the fuel lines, filter, return line, etc that youll still have to much pressure.

L26 is a stroked L24. L28 is a bored out L26. Alot of this has been covered, search a little on "converting to carbs" or "switching to carbs". Your ZX will be running at a very high fuel pressure for the carbs, might have to address misc issues like the EGR tube on the stock ZX exhaust. Although I dont see how converting to carbs will be any easier than just trying to fix the FI.

Nathan pretty much nailed it. Just be sure to remove the SS trim that goes over the window. With that and the door panel removed there are like 6 small screws that go in along the base of the window where the metal is.

Yeah, I found my IAT sensor would be perfect to fit into the stock boot going from the TB to the AFM but that was N/A. Im using it for a turbo engine so air will be a little warmer. haha Anyways is there a way to mount two IAT sensors, say one in the manifold and one right before the TB? Would there be a way to watch both temperatures at the same time to see how much heat soak there is from the manifold and when it happens?

Well heres my effort to eliminate as much heat transfer from the intake manifold to the sensor.. Just cut up my old cold start injector. Drilled out the original hole, and slipped the flange over the IAT sensor. Ill be glueing the flange on for good tomorrow so when I tighten it it will actually pull the sensor down onto the o-ring and seal it. To bad the sensor wasnt smaller on the top where I could just slip it over the top and tighen it down.

Hahaha!

So the bottom sensor is my IAT sensor. Its a GM sensor off of a early 2000s blazer, maybe late 90s. Being that it has a plastic body should I mount it on the manifold somewhere or just in front of the TB? I was considering attaching a small flange onto the sensor so I could could screw it onto the manifold being that there arent threads on it like the others Ive seen.

All I can say is mine didn't do that. Is it still sagging even with the gland nut on? I don't see why it would make anything rub. It wouldn't make the wheel sit any different. I doubt it would even make that side sit lower.

I like the idea of using cylinders as superchargers. That would be an interesting project.. haha

It doesnt seem very safe but I dont know much about metallurgy. Have you considered a set of wheel adapters?

TPS went on perfect! Also stopped by schucks and they were able to tell me which wire was which. So hopefully for future MS installers heres some info. ----------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------- HYUNDAI ACCENT year Type liter del. asp. vin designation where used position notes 1998 L4 1.5 FI N N G4EK Throttle Switch 1996 L4 1.5 FI N N Throttle Switch 1995 L4 1.5 FI N N Throttle Switch HYUNDAI ELANTRA year Type liter del. asp. vin designation where used position notes 2000 L4 2.0 FI N G4CP Throttle Switch To 8/2000 1999 L4 2.0 FI N F G4CP Throttle Switch 1998 L4 1.8 FI N M G4CN Throttle Switch 1997 L4 1.8 FI N M Throttle Switch 1996 L4 1.8 FI N M Throttle Switch HYUNDAI SCOUPE year Type liter del. asp. vin designation where used position notes 1994 L4 1.5 FI N J Throttle Switch w/ Alpha Engine w/ Daesung Sensor 1994 L4 1.5 FI T N Throttle Switch w/ Alpha Engine w/ Daesung Sensor 1993 L4 1.5 FI N J Throttle Switch w/ Alpha Engine w/ Daesung Sensor 1993 L4 1.5 FI T N Throttle Switch w/ Alpha Engine w/ Daesung Sensor 1992 L4 1.5 FI N J Throttle Switch w/ Alpha Engine w/ Daesung Sensor 1991 L4 1.5 FI N J Throttle Switch w/ Alpha Engine w/ Daesung Sensor HYUNDAI TIBURON year Type liter del. asp. vin designation where used position notes 2001 L4 2.0 FI N F G4CP Throttle Switch To 10/2001 2000 L4 2.0 FI N F G4CP Throttle Switch 1999 L4 2.0 FI N F G4CP Throttle Switch 1998 L4 2.0 FI N F G4CP Throttle Switch 1997 L4 1.8 FI N M Throttle Switch HYUNDAI TIBURON FX year Type liter del. asp. vin designation where used position notes 1998 L4 2.0 FI N F G4CP Throttle Switch 1997 L4 2.0 FI N F Throttle Switch HYUNDAI ACCENT GL year Type liter del. asp. vin designation where used position notes 1997 L4 1.5 FI N N Throttle Switch HYUNDAI ELANTRA GLS year Type liter del. asp. vin designation where used position notes 1997 L4 1.8 FI N M Throttle Switch 1996 L4 1.8 FI N M Throttle Switch HYUNDAI ACCENT GS year Type liter del. asp. vin designation where used position notes 1997 L4 1.5 FI N N Throttle Switch HYUNDAI ACCENT GT year Type liter del. asp. vin designation where used position notes 1997 L4 1.5 FI N N Throttle Switch 1996 L4 1.5 FI N N Throttle Switch HYUNDAI ACCENT L year Type liter del. asp. vin designation where used position notes 1997 L4 1.5 FI N N Throttle Switch 1996 L4 1.5 FI N N Throttle Switch 1995 L4 1.5 FI N N Throttle Switch HYUNDAI SCOUPE LS year Type liter del. asp. vin designation where used position notes 1994 L4 1.5 FI N J Throttle Switch w/ Alpha Engine w/ Daesung Sensor 1992 L4 1.5 FI N J Throttle Switch w/ Alpha Engine w/ Daesung Sensor 1991 L4 1.5 FI N J Throttle Switch w/ Alpha Engine w/ Daesung Sensor ---------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------- As for the wiring... GW--- Supply 5V <----> Pin 22 GB--- Sensor/Signal wire <----> Pin 26 WB--- Ground

http://himni-racing.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=15&products_id=632 Make sure the flange isnt warped.

Stopped by the junkyard today, looked for a 240sx TPS or the same one off of a nissan but I didnt find any of them. I looked around at the other cars to see if any other would work on the stock TB and found one off of a hyundai. http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/THROTTLE-POSITION-SENSOR-HYUNDAI-ACCENT-GL-GS-96-97-_W0QQcmdZViewItemQQitemZ370363013908QQptZMotorsQ5fCarQ5fTruckQ5fPartsQ5fAccessories It slips over the TB shaft so Ill just need to fab up some bracket to hold it on properly.

Ok, that makes sense. Since I really only have like 4 sensors there will be plenty of grounds to just run each sensors ground back the MS. Then since all of the ground pins go to the same spot on the ECU, the remaining grounds can go out to the engine bay for grounding to the block, manifold, etc. Thanks

I have what I need. Thanks.

Broke mine. If you look at the thermostat from the front of the car the bottom right connection which is a two pin like your stock injector plugs has a white sensor that screws into the thermostat. I need it ASAP!!! Its being used on a 78 280z but I assume earlier years might work.. If you dont have a 78 but think you might have the right part send me a picture. Thanks

Found this picture helpful. This is what they said on the diyautotune website. Confused on how Ill be grounding all of the sensors. Could I say use one of my datsun wires to run a wire from #20 on the DB37 to the IAT sensor yellow wire, then use #19 to return to MS through a datsun wire. For the other sensors would I just ground them to MS using any of the other ground wires or would I just ground them to the body/manifold/engine/etc? Im working on wiring the coolant tempterature sensor (head temp sensor) I used datsun wire #13 which originally goes to a pigtail connector on the white connector on the thermostat. The other wire on that connector goes back to a common ground and goes to the intake manifold. If I trace #13 back to the ECU and connect it to DB37 #21 would that work?

Ok, just switched out the thermostats. As I mentioned, one of the pigtail connectors is broken off so I need to figure out what they are both used for. If anyone has a FSM for a 78 it might mention it. Anyways could someone with a 78 take a picture of their thermostat? Im trying to find where the single nub connecter comes from in the harness. Stupid me for not marking things well enough.

Ok, yeah the ZX has two "nubs", so one is for the gauge, one for the fan. CHTS pigtail is for the engine. Now on the Z thermostat there are two pigtail plugs and a single nub, which is which? Im trying to download the FSM from xenons30.com but I dont have winRAR... Ill look at the wire numbers going to the two pigtails when I get home maybe someone can look it up for me. I also need to figure out which wire went to the single nub on the thermostat.

http://www.nadaguides.com/default.aspx?LI=1-22-1-5013-0-0-0&l=1&w=22&p=1&f=5014&y=1977&m=1254&d=2215&c=13&vi=79082&z=99208&da=-1 I guess the later models are not even close price wise.

http://spokane.craigslist.org/cto/1890374584.html Saw this on craigslist, was suprised by his claims on suggested prices. Sure enough looked it up, he was right. http://www.nadaguides.com/default.aspx?LI=1-22-1-5013-0-0-0&l=1&w=22&p=1&f=5014&y=1972&m=1254&d=2208&c=13&vi=79028&z=99208&da=-1 Has nada always been that high? I cant imagine selling much of anything even at the low retail price.

Engine: l28et from 81 ZX. Car: 78 280z EMS: MS2, fuel and spark using stock harness As the title said, the 81 l28et has a cylinder head temperature sensor along with two signals coming from the thermostat. One I assume for the gauge, not sure on the other. Now my 78 280z is getting megasquirt and I am using the 81 l28et thermostat. The wiring harness on the 78 has 5 wires going to the thermostat, 2 plugs and 1 single wire. My question is should I use the 78 thermostat? Is there a way to use the l28et's thermostat and hook everything up to the gauge correctly? Would I really only need to use one of the sensors on the l28et thermostat for the gauge and then use the new CHTS as a signal for megasquirt? Or? Heres the guide Im using for the megasquirt install. http://forums.hybridz.org/index.php?showtopic=48292 Also let me know if more info is needed. I can take pictures of both thermostats or of the wiring harness on the 78. Thanks, I couldnt do this without HybridZ!

Pictures!

Ill let you know when I get it to the point where its actually making noise. haha Then I can make a video. Got a couple sensors today and a few fittings for the oil cooler. Ill have to drill out the fittings slightly and then weld them on. Tubing with pressed on ends will be like $80 so I am told by House of Hose.. Not looking forward to that. Anyways the sensors are CHT sensor and an IAT sensor.