Challenger

Pulled off the old fuel pump. Putting on my walbro 255. Removed the original bracket and drilled two new holes for the walbros straps. Welded on bolts from the back side so I can just slide the pump on and off without having to hold the bolt on from the back. I need to get to bed so Ill mount it up tomorrow.

Although, my personal advice is to go with the 240sx caliper. Its a alot better design. I doubt it will be much more expensive but I think its worth it.

Just in case someone asks what the compression on a n42 with flat tops would be, itll be the same as an e88 with flat tops. hehe..

90 degree tube and a filter from schucks. Its pretty easy. Probably have to order the mandrel bend online unless you can find one in town.

I made it myself. http://www.rossmachineracing.com/dash8.html Bought I think two feet from here and used the mill at college to drill holes down to the thousands of an inch accuracy. Threaded and screwed in the barbed fittings. Turned out to be about $30 for the aluminum and $20 for the fittings. Better than $100+ for a JSK or pallnet. No braces but I just made one from the stock fuel rails mounts with a little piece of rubber tubing on to top for insulation. Havent updated for while... got alot done. -Wired my EDIS up to the stock ignition box under the glovebox. Looked up the power and ground wires and ran them with a plug to my edis controller and coil pack. -Wired up my fuel pump! Although I took the easy way out. Just ran power to the fuel pump through a relay and a switch which will be in the center console ash tray. It has power all the time since I tapped into the W/B wire on the ignition switch (ooops) but it turned out good. I can just flip the switch if I have the key in but dont want to start it yet, and if I stop after a hard run I can run the fuel for a little bit to circulate cool fuel through the system. -EDIS and Megasquirt (atleast the wire going to megasquirt) has power! Solid 12V! Still waiting on my DB37 connector. Id really like to start connecting all the wires to their correct pins on the DB37 but Ill have to wait till next monday.. the day before school starts. $#&@*%!!!

I used his brackets with 83 calipers.

Yeah Ive got a handle on the wiring for megasquirt, my questions are more specific to Zs wiring in general.

Haha, yeah I spent a couple hours just figuring out where each of those wires went.. Well as you said, its alot simpler to use the holley setup. I have the oil fuel pump relay off of my 81 turbo so I might be able to use that for the new system, save a few bucks. But Im still left with what to do with the originals. I dont mind having the box there but if possible it would be great to just get rid of it all together.

Would it be best for him to throw on a set of carbs if hes gonna go that high of compression with a cam?

Other option is to just not use the signal from megasquirt. I could just wire it up like this with a switch going from the ignition switch to the "NO" terminal. Then Id have a switch inside as a safety and anti-theft device as well as an automatic cut off if the engine stalls (crash, etc). Sorry if Ive just answered my own question but any information is appreciated. Maybe information in here will help someone else. haha

196 hp, 205 ft/lbs So its basically just a larger bore?

Car is a 78 280z. Will be running MS2 with EDIS so all of the coil wiring and ignition module isnt in use anymore, although I did use the switched power going to the ignition module to power EDIS.. I didnt use the relay board and I have modified the original engine harness for all my sensor, power to megasquirt, etc. Ive been looking through the wiring diagram and using the multimeter on the car to no success. Id like to wire up the stock relays to be triggered by megasquirt. This means the fuel pump control relay has to be grounded through the oil pressure sending unit and I assume another wire which Id have to trace down and connect to megasquirt. Am I just wasting my time trying to get this to work? Im considering just bypassing the original relays all together and just installing my own relay with a holley oil pressure switch (Holley part 12-810) http://www.holley.com/data/Products/Technical/199R9680-1rev.pdf It seems like this might just be the easiest to do.. But in this case would I be able to just unplug all the relays in the engine bay relay box? Im not running AC anymore so I dont need that relay, both the fuel pump relay and fuel pump control relay wouldnt be needed but would the electronic fuel injection relay be needed? As of now I dont think even the electronic fuel injection relay is needed. Ill continue to read through my FSM and trace wires...

The TB port may go behind the butterfly which is the same as in the manifold... might not be your problem. But it might be better to just put it in the middle of the intake somewhere.

Dont try pulling up on it, as you found its just going to compress the suspension. You have to apply a force to somewhere it wont make the suspension move, that would be along the length of the car. When you push on it from the front or back (depending on if the wrench is pointing up or down) the suspension has nowhere to go.

I did both yesterday, couldnt use my hands but it wasnt that bad.... Anyways jack up the car enough to slide under but enough that the wheel is still in contact with the ground where it wont spin. For the driver side I just got a 1/2 socket (about a foot long) and slipped it on the nut (no extension!) and then from the back of the car brace yourself and use your foot to push on the socket wrench (socket wrench pointed to the ground). As said it takes alot, just imagine 200 ft/lbs, thats around 200 lbs to be applied on the wrench. For the other side youll be lying under the rocker panel applying force the same way as before but its alittle easier since you can brace yourself up against the front wheels. Sorry if I explained something that is equivalent to just "use your foot". haha

PM sent!

3k will easily get you a good turbo L28. You could even turbo your stock motor for now. http://forums.hybridz.org/index.php/topic/82371-my-notes-on-the-na-l28-to-turbo-swap/page__view__findpost__p__780383__fromsearch__1 http://forums.hybridz.org/index.php/topic/80019-mats-flat-black-z-build-thread/page__st__100__p__863509__hl__flatblackz__fromsearch__1#entry863509 Read these. Specifically the first one. Possible plan if your wanting to improve performance would be megasquirt your ZX as is, then find a f54/p90 or other lower compression combo and swap it in with all the turbo goodies once you have a grasp of megasquirt. But.... I reccomend before any of this you learn all that you can about the engine/car as is. Once youve learned it inside and out THEN modify it.

Convertibles with only the windshield above you scare me. Didnt some mercedes convertibles have a roll bar that popped up if you started to roll over?

Ah the spade connector is a start signal... that goes back to the ECU correct? So this would just be a 12V switched?

Might want to mention what your running for fuel management and your tune. Arent you using haltech? How many psi you running? How do you drive it? Arent 630cc injectors way to big? Do you have a WB02?

I think putting the car on the ground would make it rub.. haha Anyways, its looking great! Have you considered flaring the front fenders? I think a ZG flare size molded in flare would look awesome and help the situation with those front tires.

I think that voids every modification on this website. haha

Found it! I really need to get the FSM in print!

Yep, A/C, fuel pump, fuel pump control and electronic fuel injection relays are all in the box. No inhibitor cause its not an automatic. I assume the ignition relay must be above the fuse panel? Thanks

Alright, Im having alot of trouble trying to figure out how to wire the fuel pump trigger to the original datsun fuel pump relays. Im tryin to follow this... http://forums.hybridz.org/index.php?showtopic=48292 But his explanation... Is making almost zero sense to me. Let me know if its confusing or if Im just really dense. Also, im trying to figure out where to get 12V switched to EDIS from. Where should I tap into?