Challenger

Well there are 3 large teeth that stick out further with 29 smaller teeth inbetween each of those.

Pay shipping any its yours. Came off of a running 78, I was swapping in a turbo engine.

Pattern of the teeth or?

Wow, I was watching the whole time thinking this is it... this is it... this is it. Great work on keeping it strait that long.

One thing to note, even if the nut was removed the water pump would still spin as normal. The little key that keeps the pulley at the right spot would keep it rotating. Was the bolt on the pulley damaged? Any idea why it came off? Just wasnt tightened enough?

I need a couple pictures to make sure my wiring is correct. If someone is able to take a picture of their starter and the wiring around it/going to the battery, as well as the wiring going to the alternator it would be much appreciated. Remember the 78 has an internal regulator so the picture would need to be from a 78. Also the relays on the passenger side of the engine bay in the metal box with plastic cover held on with 3 screws, I need to reconfirm which is which. My haynes and chiltons are void of information regarding these relays. Heres what I believe it is.... Looking from the firewall facing towards the front of the car with small plastic cover removed. ------A/C relay (4 pin black connector)----------------Voltage Regulator (5 pin black connector)---- ----------------------------------------------------------Fuel pump Relay(4 pin white connector)---- ----------------------------------------------------------Ignition relay(6 pin white connector)------ Also from what I understand the 78 has two fuel pump relays, one relay to run the relay and then one to run the pump. Where is the second one located? Is it to the right of the glovebox in the dash? Thanks for all the help.

Maybe for a 280z.

Been reading and leaning towards this way. This would use the 78 pulley. Still need to figure out how to remove the trigger wheel from the escort pulley, other than just a hack saw which might have to be done. Pictures courtesy of Braap. http://forums.hybridz.org/index.php?showtopic=38513

More pulley pictures... stopped at the pick and pull and grabbed the trigger wheel/pulley off of an escort, same kind of car I got the sensor from. Luckily the engine was already sitting under the car so I pulled it out from under and grabbed the pulley. Expect to pull off the oil pan to get it off if you dont have a pulley puller. I thought Id be able to just tap it off with my hammer like I did on my L engines but there isnt room, once the pan is off though theres plenty of room to give it a tap. Heres the pulley from an 83zxt. 3 row like the 81's but just no toothed wheel since 83 didnt have the CAS. Also the bolts holding it together come in from the front rather than the back. I have a few options. It appears the trigger wheel is pressed on from the back and it looks like the center hole (if I could pull it off) is pretty big. First option is to pull it off without any cutting or modification of the trigger wheel and then somehowe press it onto the front of the 78 pulley, that is assuming the inside hole is small enough to fit over the datsun pulley snuggly. Other option is to cut directly down the seem in front of the trigger wheel to where you only cut off the pulley grooves. Then drill holes in the trigger wheel to mount it on the front of the 83 pulley.

Started looking at the wiring for edis and thought to myself I could do alot better. Also had a little revelation on how to make the shield grounding a little easier and more aesthetic. Anyways, it turned out a billion times better and fits really good. Red wires will be going to a 12 V switched power, black will go to my ground, and you cant see it but a green wire coming out of the 4 pin pin connector (hidden in loom) will be going to 12 V switched as well. Plan for tomorrow... err today. Its 330 am. haha - Put sensor wires and injectors wires back to their final positions - Plan on where PIP and SAW lines will travel to avoid other high power wires - Dissassemble ECU connection - Look at wiring related to the fuel/ignition relay.

Yeah it looks like a common airdam except the sides where it extends up the side of the fender. Looks cool and Im sure it would keep air from hitting the front of the tires.

Looks great! What kind of airdam do you have on the front?

Also having to decide on which pulley Ill be using for the trigger wheel. I have the stock pullet off of my 78 as well as a 81 turbo pulley. Im only using the pulley closest to the block for the water pump and alternator. Heres a comparison. 81 turbo with original trigger wheel 78 pulley

Got the coil pack and EDIS controller mounted this morning. Cut out a piece of sheet metal the same shape as the coil pack and then welded 4 nuts onto the top of it where you can bolt the coil pack onto it. I then used 4 self tapping screws to secure it onto the firewall. Turned out nice and its really easy to pull off for whatever reason. Mounted the EDIS controller right next to it. I wanted to put it on the side closest to to the fender but Im planing on putting a vent in there so that went out the door.

Alright heres the diagram. I included all sensors, injectors, EDIS, and the AFR gauge and its calibration switch. Heres the coil pack with its wires labeled. Heres the rest of the wires coming off of the EDIS controller. Power, ground, 3 wires going to the coils. Wired up the VR sensor, PIP, and SAW line. Used some shielded 24 gauge cable from radio shack by Zya's reccomendation. http://forums.hybridz.org/index.php/topic/57051-pip-and-saw-shielding/page__view__findpost__p__520833 Notice the lines above have their shielding left in the casing where it cant ground out. These ends will be going to the DB37 as you see on the diagram. Now regarding the three lines pictured, PIP, SAW, VR sensor... how important even with the shielded wire is routing them away from other wires? Would running these lines even next to each other be a problem? Lastly, where these 3 wires are soldered onto the EDIS controller I had to peel back some of the shielding in order to combine it and put it into pin 7 on the controller. I assume since the length of exposed area is so short there wont be interference issues?

7, 800. Whats the difference? haha

I saw a post by 240hoke about him taking the powdercoat off of his intake manifold. I remember he saying it was a huge pain.. but apparently there is some sort of paint stripper stuff meant for powdercoat.

Im not sure if you have a welder but it might be feasible to just buy some metal fittings and run a steel line from the oil drain tube to the oil pan. You could buy the fittings and weld them on to each of the metal tubes and then screw on the metal line.. Youd have to check with your hose store for prices. Might be just as expensive or more expensive but you wouldnt know till you checked. haha

Have you tried schucks or napa? Do you have a house of hose or similar place in your town?

Quick question, just wanted to make sure its ok to connect the shields to 7. It just seemed weird that all the shields would go to 7, VR, SAW and PIP. Now you say to use different shielded wire for the SAW and PIP but I assume its OK to use a single cable like the one you posted from radio shack to go to the VR sensor? Thanks!

Ill add this too. It looks like the 4 pin connector is for the Ford coil pack since the ones Ive seen are 4x1 compared to the one I have, 2x2.

Trying to plan the wiring for my EDIS setup. Heres the coil pack I got. Attached is the configuration I came up with. Heres the threads Ive been reading. http://forums.hybridz.org/index.php/topic/38513-v3-edis-x-installation-set-up-etc/page__st__60 http://forums.hybridz.org/index.php/topic/81385-attn-megasquirters-with-edis-setups/page__p__771794__hl__%2Bplug+%2Bwires+%2Bedis+%2Bfiring+%2Border__fromsearch__1#entry771794 http://forums.hybridz.org/index.php/topic/93232-edis-installation-lessons-learned/ Question is how do I find which coils are connected to each pin? 3 coils, each should have its own pin and then theyll all share one. Ive been messing with the multimeter trying to see which is which but Im not conclusive. Also if my numbering is messed up let me know. Thanks!

Alright, worked outside for a few hours and didnt physically do much but I feel alot better about what Im doing now. Im working on a crude wiring diagram with numbers for the datsun wires as well as the pin they will go into on the DB37. Also started to understand a little better on how Ill be grounding everything. Gonna sit back and relax, watch Resident Evil, and make a wiring diagram.