Challenger

Wow, thats terrible. Hope she has a speedy recovery. Dont do anything stupid...

Ive seen alot of people using the 240sx one, might consider that.

There are numerous threads where people have explained this. Id consider just going to your local glass shop and having them do it. Mine turned out to be about $170 to install both with a new front windshield. It was really worth it.

Heres the one they sent me before I ordered. If youd like more pictures let me know.

I have these "on" my car, just without tires. Search for "wheel ideas" for my thread that has pictures of them.

Ive got a 5 speed out of a NA ZX and it was rebuilt but needs a new tail housing bushing. Dimensions are: ID-1.375" and OD-1.5" and it is 1.575" long. This is located where the front of the driveshaft inserts into the transmission. Does anyone know where to get something like this? I dont even know where to start other then google and MSA, both which dont show anything thus far.

Nice looking good! Are you tig welding it?

Are you just running stock electronics? Id be interested to see how much change in the intake manifold the ecu can take.

Yeah, we cant just spoon feed you the info.

I dont see the benefit of all that work. The intake is still restricted by the runner size. Id say just port out the mouth so it doesnt have a lip and just run that.

Well the filter is clean but it doesnt have the plastic tube thing. Is that needed? Thanks for the pictures.

G is the designation for 2+2. My car is GHLS30, my 74 2+2 was GRLS30.

Yeah makes perfect sense. Im just waiting to till It stops raining and isnt so cold so I can drop the tank and pull the feed. The fuel filter I put on isnt getting dirty so If something is clogged it must be the pickup. Do you know if there is a "sock" or something on the pickup? Also Im getting an aluminum fuel rail for cheap so Ill be putting that on soon. At that point Ill make sure all the injectors are clean and finish the new injector plugs (1/2 done).

So are you wanting the intake shaved and then polished or just polished. If you didnt want it shaved it would be easy to polish. Actually an n47 egr intake would be the best for this. You can shave off most of the bungs and there will be no holes to fill therefore no different colored aluminum spots. You can then just file it, sand it and then polish it. Take your time and get everything level and youll be good.

Ok thanks. The pump was one of my first guesses but I thought Id hold out just in case it was something similar. I might look at getting another stock one and switching them out.

Which webers? I assume its the downdrafts.

I wouldnt count on getting that much for your head. You might but it might take awhile.

Have another bit of info that Id thought Id mention. I was putting it in second gear and then running it from 30-65ish and I noticed something. Id give it full throttle and it would accelerate to about 3200 then stop. Id have to let off the throttle then reapply it to go any further. It also helped to even let off the throttle a bit. It would accelerate faster at like 3/4 throttle... any ideas on things this might be? Other than what weve already discussed.

Not yet. In the proccess of replacing the injector plugs. But I did have an issue with the TPS. I went to drive home from school and it was jerking really bad when you barely applied the throttle. (give it full throttle in neutral and it would jerk between 2000 and idle) Turns out it was a bit wet (been raining alot). Worked fine after that. Im hoping once it gets warm again (and dry) I can really dig in.

The car or the testical? 25k is a great deal, good luck with sale.

Well Im only guessing, but you pretty much have a stock powered engine assuming its assembled correctly. Take a little off for switching to carbs, then add a little for the carb/cam combo. You start out with about 135 whp so Im not sure which way or how far that way it will take you. That is where searching comes in handy, you can look at real setups and how they worked out. Look in the L6 section FAQ. It shows all of the different heads and how they differ. I think your talking about the l28/e31 combo. Id reccomend searching and also getting "How to modify your L series" I know you mentioned early z engines but the p90 is pretty popular with flat tops. My personal opinion is go turbo, your not limited as much as you are with a NA L series, but its up to you.

First off welcome to HBZ! As for your last statement, I can find the information myself. But Ill give you some pointers... How much power it will add isnt really determinable, alot of variables. If you do everything but the cam youll have a basically stock powered engine. Add the cam with proper tuning and youll be a little better off. As for stroking, youll need the ld28 crank, their are 2 for sale in the for sale section for $450 each. I believe there is machining involved so factor in that also. Might think about investing the money youd spend on the crank in a set of triples. But really knowing what I just told you, you should be able to do some research and find the answers you desire. Also If you decide to go with a pair of SU's I havea set for sale. $100. Pm if your interested.

P90a or P90? Hydraulic or mechanical (respectively). The hydraulics are no longer available new so youd have to pull them off of another head or buy some from a member. Not sure about the mechanicals.

Niiiccceee.

Car and Driver will have ads for driving all sorts of supercars for a day. Not sure what the company is. Try this. http://www.autoblog.com/2007/12/05/drive-five-supercars-for-only-1-300-a-day/