Challenger

Got them back!!!! Only cost me $20. Now Im just waiting for the top perches to dry (paint) and Ill start assembling them. I started mocking up the one (not in photo) and it seems like I wont need a spring compressor to get these on. Its all just bolt together.. Im thinking it will lower the car alittle more than 1.5 inches. NEW PARTS -Frame Front Control Arm Bushings, for some reason not included in the kit?? $15 from Energy Suspension -Rear Disk Brake COnversion brackets, from ZRACEPRODUCTS for $130 shipped. Will post pics when they come. REAR SHOCKS ASSEMBLED EXPLODED VIEW FOR FRONTS Back to work...

So whats the difference in weight? I dont remember my windshield being that heavy...

Austins car is spectra blue, I was considering it also. Beautiful car.

Running the SW20 KYB AGX in a full length strut casing with NO modifications to the strut casings. Perfect for putting the shock in the correct range of use when using coilovers. (No more "bouncy" shocks because they are over compressed) Can be used with bolt on Coilovers OR lowering springs, with no adverse effects Can be used with other short stroke shock options with small shims under the shock. Thats what they say...

Yeah I believe there is a very very high percentage of would be ME's here.

Well before you leave we all need to get together. You, marc, tanner (tanman280z) and I, grab a burger or something.

I wish I was to highschool for my senior year, Im doing the running start program so ive been at the college since my junior year. I miss metal shop....

Ahh, lit is terrible I had American Lit. writing intensive last quarter worst class ever.

Ok sorry, I meant its alot cheaper to up the boost than to increase the displacement on a L series. As for standalone, I meant you have alot more potential power by going to a standalone than to increase the displacement .2-.3 L. Are either of these incorrect...

So who all is going back this week? Today was my first day, overall classes are good but its going to be hard. What classes are everyone taking? Ive got Physics 201, Calc 2, and Health. Lots of fun... better finish homework.

Its been said alot here, psi is cheaper the ci for L series. Like Woldson said, forget about the stroker and get a standalone, it gives you alot more potential.

Isnt the point of sectioning to gain travel after lowering the car? If not correct me, havent researched into this. If I am correct then this wouldnt do anything to improve travel. Youd still have the same distance from the top of the gland nut to the top perch.

Yeah regarding the halfshafts I didnt want to take them apart to paint them. I cleaned them up pretty well and I dont think theyll look bad. As for the bushings, thanks, Ill be sure to wait. Also I got the gland nut finally and took the shocks to schwabs this afternoon, theyll be done tomorrow. (hopefully)

Id like to see a picture of it off the car... Hopefully you can get it back up quick.

Wow, never seen that before. Also didnt know zfiberglass went down. (did he ever sell it?) I like that the bottom extends to the front crossmember but dont really like the bottom part. Looks a bit ricey to me, and I think a thinner upper portion would look better.

Break them off with the impact gun. Bolts slip out the other side and your done. Get a set of new bolts and put it back together.

Well when I got my head decked he washed it down and cleaned off the shavings. Id assume any good shop would do that.

Was it not cleaned before machining? If so was it hot tanked?

Geez guys, one page last night and 3 this morning... You guys need to just get messenger or something...

No problem, there is also a few threads about a 260 2+2 awd, with a nascar engine. Its a hill climb car and it pretty sweet.

Well just because he knew of a awd gtr s30 doesnt mean he hasnt seen that thread and its of no benefit.

Done and discussed. http://forums.hybridz.org/showthread.php?t=117760

Would a mapp gas torch work for this? I had bought some of the aluminum welding rod and it really only works on small stuff since you have to get the metal to around 700+ degrees. I tried it on a turbo manifold and it just couldnt get it hot enough (heat dissapated to quickly through the rest of the manifold)