garvice

Wow, that is some serious figures. I've got 185rwhp and 320ftlbs @ 13psi with my l28et

Fair enough, thanks for the info.

Looks good though.

Yeah those prices sound about right. Mine was ~$3500 for M600, loom, all sensors, data logging. Can I ask why you are after traction control? Will you need wheel sensors for that? You get some great support with Motec as well. Still not convinced megasquirt can do full sequential injection/ignition.

Can megasquirt really do 6 injector/ignition outputs? I would personally recommend Motec. Nice gear.

That looks a bit better. I have a bit of a technical question. When porting manifolds, do you have to try and keep the runner diameters and runner mouths/openings similar sizes across the cylinders so that each cylinder flows similar amounts of air? If so, how do you manage to do this? You mentioned ball bearings, is this your normal measuring tool? or do you have a long measuring caliper or something? Cheers mate, Brad

Ok guys, I have read this thread a couple of times and I am still perplexed. I have the torque that you guys are getting but not the power. I am getting similar torque figures to people here that have similar setups/boost levels to me, in some cases even larger torque figures. I get 320ft-Lbs of torque at the wheels, but I am only getting 185rwhp @ 5500rpm. I get my 13psi just below 4000rpm and it stays relatively steady all the way till 6000rpm. Dyno sheet here (third gear run in a 280zx 5spd) http://s133.photobucket.com/albums/q63/garvice/?action=view&current=IMAGE0001.jpg Here is my setup. L28e converted to an ET (F54 with dished pistons) P90 head GT30/40r Turbo 60mm 240sx Throttle Body 440cc Supra Injectors Intercooled with 2.5" piping 2.5" to 3" Dump pipe (Changes dimension very quickly) 3" from DP back LS1 Coils Aftermarket computer tuned by a good tuner Tuned at 13psi. How are you guys getting such big Hp numbers? Are you pushing your cars higher in the rpm range to get the big power numbers? Mine drops off higher in the rpm which I assume is because it doesn't breathe well enough. I guess I am just going to have to do the quarter mile and get a ET. That way I can compare real numbers with you guys.

looking good. Try the photos without a flash, seems to work better for me.

Fair enough, good point.

Use a bit of 8mm fuel hose and clamps. My injectors are o-ring type and I have about 50mm of fuel hose on each injector. Clamp on the barb end and clamp on the injector end. I kept my o-rings in as I had a little bit of leaking without them.

Don't forget to add the fuel pump switches this time so that you can flick it as your exiting if it ever happens again.

Subscribed here too.

I just went through the exercise of putting RX7 seats in my Z. I think your best bet with any new seats is cutting down the datsun seat mounts. I found that my seat mounts were roughly 110mm high at the front, this is fine with the datsun seats as they have no bottom (They have a spring bottom rather then a fibreglassed buttom like a lot of newer seats) so you sink down into them. I ended up making new mounts out of 40x40mm box section to get my seats to sit like factory (even a bit lower now). Here is some info on mounts if your interested. http://forums.hybridz.org/showthread.php?t=148599

You are at Hybridz, so obviously you don't believe that statement you made. I like the idea of electric windows for the same reason stated by Austin, A/C sounds good living in brisbane. Would probably leave door locks off. Having said all that, I think I will probably not do any of these. LOL.

Their website says unavailable until further notice.

BLOODY HELL!!! That is insane!

Thanks Austin. Means a lot coming from you. Cheers

My RX7 FD Series 8 seats are in. WOOHOO. Thread is here http://forums.hybridz.org/showthread.php?p=1024950#post1024950 Brad

For those of you that don't want to be bored with my ramblings, here is the result. For the rest of you that actually want to see what I had to do to get them to fit, read on. After seeing these two threads, I was impressed with how original the RX7 FD seats looked in the S30 interior. They also are far more supportive and I believe lighter then the original seats (I didn’t measure so can’t confirm). One other big reason why I decided to do this conversion was that in the two threads shown both owners had mentioned how easy the swap was. http://www.classiczcars.com/forums/showthread.php?t=23226 http://www.viczcar.com/forum/index.php?topic=1180.0 Unfortunately I discovered that my 76 (Nov 2+2 build) had different floor mounts to the two guys that have done this conversion. This is how the early floor mounts look (after some massaging of the rear mount). This is how my 76 seat mounts look like. Notice how high the mounts are at the front. The existing seat mounts are only 1mm folded steel with another sheet of steel welded behind the nut for strength and spot welded to the floor. They are extremely strong for such thin metal. What I found was that I could get the RX7 seats to line up nicely with the original seat mounts. Unfortunately I found that the RX7 seats were sitting far too high at the front. My small aftermarket momo steering wheel was touching my legs. I found that the datsun seats have the seat cushion parallel with the seat rails and use the seat mounts to tilt the seat cushion. The RX7 seats have the seat cushion tilted to the rails already. So when you put the seats on the standard datsun mounts you are almost reclining and your knees point very high up. The diagram below explains what I am talking about. I also discovered that the M8 bolts used in the datsun were a little too small for the holes in the RX7 rails. I ended up using M12 bolts. So, after finding this out, I decided that I would have to lower my seat mounts. If I remember correctly they were approximately 110mm (~4 1/4 inches) high at the front and 50mm at the rear. My first decision was to cut the mount in half, drop it over the existing mount and weld in some new 6mm sections for where the rails go. I decided to start with the passengers side (rhd car) mount so that I could still drive the car and also because the transmission tunnel stuck out further (required a little massaging with ball pein hammer) on this side so it was a more difficult fit. It took some courage to cut into the precious metal for the first time. Here is the top half of the mount positioned over the bottom half of the mount. This was my original design I had my mate weld up the seat mount. He wasn’t real happy with his efforts as he found the thin metal hard to get a good weld on without blowing holes through it. This was how it turned out. Not bad, but I we both though we could do better. So, I undid all my mates good effort and decided to rip the entire mount out. The new seat mount I made out of 40x40x2.5mm shs with some of the 6mm bar as spacers for height. I also used some of this shs for the rear mounts as the RX7 rails are longer. With these mounts I was able to get the seats to sit like the originals and even a little lower. Next was the drivers side. No driving the car now. The drivers side has a support sticking up through the floor pan so I had to come up with a new way to mount the left front tab. Here is a picture of my mounts after my mate welded in the nuts and spacers. I cleaned the welds up a bit and gave them a good coat of “Bright Zincâ€. Passenger's side Driver's side Passenger’s Side Stitch welded in place (With even more “Bright Zinc†applied after) Driver’s Side Stitch welded in place Next photos are after the gaps had been sikaflexed and sprayed with some “Black Zinc†(Didn’t even know there was such a product, 98.5% zinc!) Passenger's Side Driver’s Side And Finally, the reason why I did it in the first place. I still have to change a few things. Once I get the back rest to my prefered angle, I am going to take out the first few positions, as there is about 5-6 tilted positions that I won't use at the front. I also have to work out a way to change the tilting mechanism. Because I have sat the seats so low, my tilting lever is level with the door sill, so I can't easily get my fingers between the lever and the door. Oh yeah, my mate would be ~ 6 foot tall and he still had a good 5 inches above his head. I have heaps more in progress shots if you need to see anything in-particular.

Seriously though, looks well supported. Couple of quick questions. - Did you drill and tap the holes? Those look like roofing screws/wood screws and they look like they are in at a bit of an angle. - From the photo, you have one line (Not sure if it is fuel) that looks like it goes from metal to rubber, but I can't see how it attaches? Doesn't look like a worm clamp or anything.

Did it get in the way when trying to install the fuel pump? LOL

1/ I got my dash recovered (thread is in the interior section). 2/ In process of mounting Rx7 FD seats, will post an install thread when complete.

WOW! Looks like it sits nice and low (Although that might just be due to the intake on the original motor). Well done and enjoy. Now, when are you turbo charging the LS2? LOL.

I saw quite a few, including mine. Not using a factory EDIS, but it is definitely Electronic (Got an ECU driving the Coils), Distributorless (That is gone other then the sensor), Ignition system

Looking good mate.