garvice

ragefear, As requested and as promised, here is my Dyno sheet. Unfortunately only the Power is curved, but peak torque is listed. 320 lbs-ft or 430 Nm. So overall I have about twice the stock engine torque but at the wheels. No wonder I'm satisfied, I know it isn't as impressive as some others but it feels quick enough to me. I might have to start hunting for that 300zx transmission and r200 lsd sooner rather than later. Did some calcs (Assumption, my R200 is 3.7, still have to check that, will edit these if it is wrong). 115 km/hr = 4590rpm 118 km/hr = 4710rpm 140 km/hr = 5588rpm 165 km/hr = 6585rpm

I love it. Love to see a ricer pull up beside you and ask "What you got under the hood?". Ah gees, I wonder!

When you pull the louvered cowl panel, also check for screw holes. I checked all the usual parts that leak, but then realised a previous owner had tried to mount something inside the cabin and had screwed straight through the horizontal panel leaving small holes for the water to get in.

So you will try mounting the lights behind the guage in a year then. Just kidding, what you have looks good, well done.

Sorry, I should have explained myself. Perhaps if you pull it apart you could use one LED as a turn signal. Surely you don't need 5 of them. Just a suggestion though.

What are the LEDs on the Tacho for? Could you use one of these as your turn signal? You really only need one like a motor bike. Here is another option, although probably won't work for the revolution gauges. http://forums.hybridz.org/showthread.php?t=143337

KTM, What spark plug gap are you running?

I got LS coils on my L28et at the moment. Although I am only running 13psi max boost. I have a couple of extra coils in the glovebox incase I get stuck in the middle of no where. I just haven't driven it enough to know if they are going to be reliable long term. (Shouldn't be any worse mounting then how holden had it) This was my thread for the mount I made for them http://forums.hybridz.org/showpost.php?p=953392&postcount=16

Chris, Here are some photos of the parcel tray 9 years and 200 000 kms after completion (I.E. It has taken quite a beating in that time, so that's why it doesn't look the best). Bit hard to see the curves in the photos, it looks much curvier in person. I started with a 3mm MDF board with holes cut for the speakers. Stapled the foam to the MDF, screwed the speaker grille on top of the foam where I wanted the speaker to go. Screwed a piece of MDF in the middle of the parcel shelf (where you see the indentation) and then squirted the expandable foam under the closed cell foam. Actually to tell the truth it wasn't even closed cell foam, it was just that white light density foam. Just squirted as was required to get the shape. Left to dry, then removed the grilles and MDF cutout in the middle and covered with carpet. Dead easy, just takes some patience. If you put to much foam in, you can make a hole while it is wet and push the foam around, although be careful as it is very sticky and really only comes off while wet. Also when it is hard you could probably sand it and fiberglass it if you want it rock solid.

Cool, thanks for that. Enjoy and good luck with it. Brad

Oh gees, sorry I am no help whatsoever.

WOW! Nothing more I can say. Well done. Pat yourself on the back for me. P.S. This is his daily driver. If he parks this at the shops with no hood, as soon as people see that masterpeice, people would go as far as ring a tow truck to try and steal it.

Mine has a chain too (Although it is now broken) I will take some photos of how nissan originally did it for you. Take photos sometime tomorrow.

Very nice piece mate. Well done. P.S. Long live the 6, although you could always turbo charge it

So Richard, M&W CDI. I've read a little on them since my post. What did Paul Masterson say about M&W units. Do they make the Motec CDI units? or is it just hear say? Also, are you going with wasted spark unit or shelling out for a 6/8 unit and going sequential? Brad

Sorry, didn't read the M&W part, my bad. As I understand Richard is using the State Motec Distributor to do his work. (Is that still correct Richard). As I understand the guy does a lot of work with the V8 supercar guys, so he should know what is going on.

Oh know. I think Hybridz is going to far. Medical procedures modified by Hybridz. LOL.

Wow, even better. Consider some protection against the heat. Like, use some Tefzel wire (Higher heat rated insulation) and some good quality fire/heat retardant loom. I like this stuff, you can't get it to burn even with a naked flame and it seems to block heat quite a bit. http://au.farnell.com/jsp/search/productdetail.jsp?SKU=1346821 Probably better stuff out there though. With this stuff you will need 1 run of loom for two injectors as the biggest it comes in is 6mm. Wow, I can't remember being so excited about someone else's project before.

Well done. The intake tubes came up really well too. Did you just grind and sand them? Keep up the good work.

What settings did you have Richard. I am currently using LS coils with an M600 on my L28et. Would like to know if it is going to cause me a problem. http://forums.hybridz.org/showpost.php?p=953392&postcount=16 I don't drive mine as hard as you would drive yours (Mines a weekend warrior not a track car) but I would like to know if it is going to cause me headaches. Also, mind PMing me a ball park on what the cdi unit is setting you back. Are you going with a 4 channel and doing wasted spark or a 8 channel? Using Motec CDI coils? Good luck Brad

If your looking for complex curves then I suggest expandable foam under the closed cell foam. You can create some great natural looking shapes with the foam. Just clamp down the areas that are not to be expanded. I did this for the rear parcel shelf in my corolla. Clamped down the area where two 6x9s were going and clamped down a flat area between them. Then I sprayed the foam in the rest. Turned out great.

How about running a second stainless line to each injector like you have for the fuel and putting the wires through that. You could somehow clamp the tubes to each injector together, with the wiring one on the bottom.

The suicide part wouldn't be the flare part. It would be the part in front of the flare. With the right hinge it would clear the flare.

24Gs. Bloody hell. That is well over engineered (Don't get me wrong, I'm impressed and I like it). We are talking hitting a wall and stopping dead at almost 850km/hr or 500mph. Now that is some G Forces, I guess that design standard won't need to be updated for quite a few decades.