garvice

Man, I thought Australia's 1.60 a litre for premium was bad, but you New Zealanders are doing it tuff. Americans, your fuel is still dirt cheap. Why do you think your one of the only countries left with enormous engines.

Very impressive craftsmanship. I love woodworking and think this is great. But supercar is a bit of a stretch. It even has leaf springs. Come on guys.

You know, I was going to post a question today, but you have already answered it. I was going to say, how will you fit a cone filter in there (I took off my cowl this weekend and realised there wasn't much space.

cheers mate, will have to look into those.

Nismo280z Thanks for the tip, although, I am a fan of using the right tools for the job. Might cost a bit more up front, but at least it makes the job pleasurable and you are confident it won't stuff up. About soldering connections. I am still on the fence with this one. I prefer to run a single wire with terminal crimps. If I have to splice wires I prefer to crimp rather than solder. I am still not sold on the idea of soldering a crimped join. I can see both sides of the argument. Just havent made up my mind about it yet. I thought I would go with the Delphi unit (since they make the crimps). http://order.waytekwire.com/productdetail/M37/402 But I am having a hard time finding a Delphi Supplier in Australia (seems stupid). Sent a email off to see if waytek will send one to Australia, just waiting on a response.

Wow, thanks guys, lots of good suggestions. And most importantly a lot cheaper than the $600-1200 that AMP (Tyco) want for theirs. I knew there had to be something that would do a good job for less.

Ok Guys, I am in the market for a Crimping tool for these type of connections It is what will be on my LS1 Coils and on my injectors as well as my other sensors. I see them often referred to as weatherpack connectors What crimping pliers to people have (Brand/Model) and what did they cost? Are you happy with them. Cheers guys Brad

WOW, great mount. Nice machine too, got myself a Gaggia, looking to upgrade to a Isomac Heat Exchange machine one day. I'll stop taking your thread off topic now.

Just a quick question. Do you sleep? Looking good Derek, keep up the caffeine intake and good work.

Cheers KTM, that gives me comfort.

Ok guys, take two. I have trimmed it down quite a bit and at the moment it is done with two peices of 6mm mdf and a 3mm peices of aluminium strip. Final mount will be a single peice of probably 3-5mm aluminium bent into shape. This one is still a little lower at the back, final mount will be in line with the top of the valve cover. Now, criticise away. Also, Ktm, did you does your coil mount vibrate at all when the engine is running? My mount will be coming of the block simillar to yours. Cheers Brad

Tony, your crazy

Thanks for the offer 280zforce. I'll keep it in mind, but for now, will try and make what I have work (Easier for replacements if something goes wrong). What do you think about the placement?

Ok, thanks for the confirmation.

Fair enough, thanks for your input Ktm.

Do you mean towards the valve cover? or front of engine to back? I do think if I mount it high like this, that I am going to have to change the shape a bit, too boxy for me. MDF is purely for the development phase. Didn't want to send it to a water cutting shop before I was happy with the design. Coils are out of a Holden commodore V8 (Pontiac GTO to all you Americans), one of the later model ones with the Gen3 V8s. Picked them up on AU ebay for about $80 (for 8). There is normally only one set on ebay at a time, but plenty in the wreckers. KTM, I do like your approach. I had seen it on your thread and on Ron's. I thought they looked a bit better the way Ron had them, just don't think I can fit them properly that way. Plus, I think I can hide the wires better the way Ron did it, although looking at your finished product they do blend into the engine bay nicely. Obviously your coils work in your setup, but do they get hot? I thought if I mounted them to some 3mm Aluminium that it might act like a good heat sink for them.

Just windows rolling hills for me. I put a nice photo of Byron Bay on my wifes macbook. I find that my computer desk top is like every other desk or work bench I have, because I rarely see it due to the junk that has accumulated on it.

I have heard people say that imitation is the greatest form of flattery. I had always planned on running LS1 coils on my L28. When I saw Ron Tyler's LS1 coil mount http://forums.hybridz.org/showthread.php?t=128125 (Great looking piece of gear, be sure to pick one up instead of making your own), I thought, WOW. I have to have one of those. Was even going to pay the international shipping rates. Obstacle No.1 Well, before I jumped in the deep end, I did my home work and found (well actually didn't find) that the truck type LS1 coils were all but impossible to find in Australia. (Before someone says, they are everywhere where I am, yes I rang around near 20 wreckers in my state and other states looking for them). So, I decided, I will have a go myself and see what I can come up with, even though it may not be a nice as Ron's. Obstacle No.2 (Fitting them in there) The car coils are huge. roughly 90mm wide (almost 3.54" in the old language) and 80mm high. Doesn't sound like much until you realise that there is only 95mm between spark plugs. Also, I currently have a bit of gear that will need moving if I mount them where Ron did (Coolant hose, Change oil filter mount because mine comes off the block at an angle and points up where the coil would go, run turbo oil line from elsewhere). Obstacle No.3 The car coils have the electrical and spark plugs both on the same end. Quite frankly, the electrical plug is ugly sticking out the top. So, all that to get to the pictures. Before I made a real mount, I fabbed one out of MDF and mounted it to see how it would look. Now, I know it doesn't look as good as Ron's mount, but what do you guys think of it's placement? Do you think it sticks out too much being there? Should I move the coils closer together and try and fit them down where Ron had his? I think it detracts from my first goal of trying to make it look simple, however I also think once painted it wouldn't look half bad. (Indecision, I hate it). If I go ahead with this placement, I will paint the bottom of the coil black and probably powdercoat the mount black or red.

When I read that your exhaust weighed 34lbs with muffler, then saw that you had no muffler in your pics, I thought, HA. That's how he got it so light, no muffler. Also, did spinning the intake proved to be a stupid idea?

That is gold, I love it. I was tossing up buying a datsun 1200 ute when my corolla died, but since I have had the last two cars, I decided to buy my wife a new corolla instead. Now the next 2-3 cars will definitely be mine.

Not quite sure what your getting at there mate? Your max load is all things running at once. Or are you saying your largest load (I.E. the largest single piece of equipment)? If so, it can be as large as it wants, as long as its not larger than the breaker (because then it will trip out on overload all the time). Nothing wrong with aluminium cable guys. It just requires larger cable for the same amperage/volt drop. Copper is better for the same size wire though. Good practice. When sizing cable, your CB min pickup setting (1.05xCB rating) must be larger than your Load demand, your Cables derated capacity needs to be more than the CB max pickup setting (worst case 1.3xCB rating). We have a really good and easy to understand standard in Australia. If anyone is interested P.M me. Sounds like it is time to build that ultimate garage we all dream about. Just one final thing, the problem does sound like it isn't on your side of things. However when you do tighten that aluminium lug, make sure you don't over torque it. I have seen this reduce the contact area that the lug has with the CB tab (doesn't sound logical I know) and actually create more resistance in the join, which then ultimately fails.

26ounce First off, you mean, 6kA not 6kVA (Breakers are rated by load rating I.E 100A part and breaking capacity, how much current it can break in a short circuit condition, this is the 6kA or 10, 16 25 etc, etc.) If it was 6kVA then in a 208V case you would only be able to break 28A under a short circuit condition. John, It sounds to me like you have either a loading issue or a short in the phase that keeps frying (could be some equipment that you are connecting to it). But before I jump to any conclusions, just a few questions. 1/ You mention that you have a 3Phase 70A feed to your welder, then in the second post you mention that all your welders are single phase. Which one is it? 2/ When welding heavy aluminium (you stated 200A) is this on a single phase? You mention that your 100A CB does not trip. If this is the case, then as your breaker is not seeing the current through all three phases then it may not be enough to trip a thermal CB element, however it may be enough to kill the cable. One suggestion, always have single phase loads protected by single phase breakers. Also, you will need to upgrade your 3Phase supply (100A) to be larger than your largest single phase load (it appears - 200A welder) or by a 3 phase welder (sorry not trying to be your pusher, my wife does say i'm a bad influence on people thinking about upgrading their gear) Brad

that is a cool garage, my mate would definitely be envious. I know I am.

This could very well be a stupid suggestion as I have very little exposure to this engine so feel free to Vito it without a second thought. Or ignore it altogether. Have you thought about spinning the intake 180deg? From the Bottom half photo it looks almost symetrical front to back, well at least the ports anyway. If it's not symetrical perhaps it would be possible to just spin the top half 180deg? Can someone superimpose in photoshop? or better yet, do you want to trace a template and show us what it looks like Myron? If that is possible it would make turbos in front of the engine that much nicer/cleaner.