garvice

How do the hair dryers go on extended use? I always think the misses is going to burn hers out when she uses it for more then a couple of minutes because you get the insulation smell.

WOW, so jealous. Engine bay paint came up great too.

Cylinder is an indicator flasher (There is one for your turn signals, and one for your hazard lights), the other is a relay, can't remember what for.

Looking forward to see closer photos. Looks neater then the SPAL kits.

Wow I love this build and an glad I an not paying for it. Ha.

I quite like it, especially from an amount of work put into it point of view. Asked about it on the australian site and got this video from one of the members.

Definitely australian, looks like a queensland license plate on the commodore ute. Their website doesn't look complete yet.

Man this is a great build. Stick with it mate, I am envious and proud at the same time.

Ah fair enough, thanks for the explanation of use. Makes sense.

Mike, Nice workshop, couple of questions though. How did you get the red Z in there? I noticed the wheel dollies, but couldn't see a way in. Also, is that a four post hoist and a two post hoist in the one bay? Is the four post hoist hard to work around when the car is on the two post? I have a two post and find it very good to work around, just trying to work out the benefit to you having a four post aswell.

Still keeping tabs on the build mate, just don't want to clog up your thread. Keep up the good work.

NOOOOO! Damn, I guess you prefer to build them then drive them. HA. Well good luck with the sale anyway, pity I am in the wrong continent.

Don't like those nearly as much (to much like a lot of other wheels). But hey, that is just my opinion (and opinions are like asses, everyone has one), buy the one that you like most.

Always loved that wheel. Go for it, they look great on your car.

Looks great, well done mate.

Nevermind, Just had a look at the photo of your strut installed and it is clear that the spring is on the perch at full extension.

What is stopping it going up though? Other then length of strut and spring. I guess my real question is, is the spring long enough that at full extension of the strut the spring is still on its perch?

What is holding the threaded sleeve onto the strut? Is it just sitting on there, or do you eventually weld it on? What would happen at full extension of your suspension? (Though I don't expect that would be too much of an issue in this car, not using it for rally etc).

Great insight Mike (sure sounds like it was an interesting albeit tough ride). I can see my build taking a similar detour (the main reason why I started the journal so that I could keep a track of the time), though for obviously different reasons (children). I just hope I get a chance to drive it before my 11month old son.

Getting closer mate. It is builds like this (relatively longer builds on cars that started almost finished) that give me faith my car will eventually be back on the road. Keep up the good work.

Coming together mate

No 280z in Australia, But yes I take you point.

That is a coincidence, as I don't like helping out people who won't first help themselves.

Built a Ron Tyler inspired Diff mount today. Didn't have any 3" or 1" x 1/4" flat bar, but did have some 6mm x 100mm flat bar, so used that instead. I didn't use Ron's dimensions as my driveline angles are not the same as a JTR build. Overall I got my driveline sitting at 1.9 degrees and the driveline is parallel in the horizontal plane within ~0.1 degrees. Here are the pictures. As you can see in the photos, I am going to need to change to a 240z rear mount roll bar.

Do you need to weld the seam around the blanking plates to seal them off are they that tight a fit that they don't need to be fully welded?