garvice

Ha, that is a great storey about the daughter. Well done, car is looking great, and you have obviously done something right with your daughter, she sounds like she is a rev head too.

Ah, that makes sense, was wondering was wondering where you were suggesting to strengthen. David, I live in one of the only right countries to have the RHD.

240zdan, Sorry haven't seen your setup? This is a 240hoke shifter mount that he made for his z32 swaps. Also, what heim joint are you talking about? No heim joints in the mounts. Brad

Who did the oil pan? Looks like it attaches to the transmission like the rb26 one? Transmission mount does look a little flimsy.

Awesome colour! Orange is one of the colours that I would consider painting my car (not for years of course).

I didn't use the full linkage (cut out the rod between the two unijoints). Below are pictures of how it sits in the car. The feel seems fine at the moment (need to get new bushes for the shifter). The z32 shifter is angled a bit too far forward for my current liking (I.E. Neutral is straight up down which feels a bit strange), might bend the shifter back a bit if I don't get use to it.

Someone on another forum (yes I have been cheating on you all) asked about where my gearstick would come through and how angled it would be since my engine is now standing up straight. See photos below. Will see how it feels before I decide if it needs a bend in it.

I think you need to build your own mounts then, metal is cheap. Mine probably cost about $20 in metal/cutting discs/blades and paint.

Ha, no. Mk3 as in third time lucky as I was not happy with my first two attempts.

So the list of big things to do now. - Build mount to Lower nose of diff (and change mount from below diff to above diff) by 2.5 degrees to oppose/match engine/transmission angle. - Get a driveshaft - Build an exhaust manifold - Build a sump, either modify the RD28 sump or the R200 sump or build a new one from scratch - Install my CV joint rear axles - Intercooler and piping - Radiator/fan/plumbing - New loom - Brake upgrade (thinking r32 gtr calipers with custom mount and got to find a disc to work) - Suspension rebuild/upgrade - Tear down of engine and rebuild Well that list should keep me off the streets for a while. Some of the big ticket items like the engine work might get put off to another build.

And just made mk3 of the engine mounts this week. Mk1 mounts were ok, but the engine had not been lined up straight when we put it in, would have been fine as the angle was not that great, but thought I could do better. Mk2 engine mounts started last weekend and were still not good enough so spent a couple of nights last week building mk3. I am happy with how the engine sits now. http://www.viczcar.com/forum/index.php/topic,9250.0.html

So end of 2010 and start of 2011 work started on the datsun again. I built a new transmission mount (300zx transmission with RB26 bellhousing) and crossmember (this took far to long, but I am glad I didn't rush it, because I changed my mind almost as many times as I changed my underwear and am glad with the final way I made it). http://forums.hybridz.org/index.php/topic/98380-transmission-mount-for-260z-rb26-300zx/page__p__923033#entry923033

Decided now was as good a time as any to start a build thread (since all the cool kids are doing it) to try and keep myself honest and motivated (it is not going to be quick). I bought the car below back in late 2006 (photos from first outing with the blokes). I had been casually looking at the adverts for a good year and nothing decent had come up for sale, then all of a sudden this and 260DET’s cars came up for sale at the same time. Should have bought his back then, but as we say hindsight is a . . .. The owner had just built an L28et engine for the car. I drove it like this for probably 18 months until the megasquirt computer gave up the ghost. Since I did not want to put another cheap computer back in, the car sat under the carport for 12 months while I saved for parts and worked out what to do. In all honesty I probably blamed the computer a bit too much, as the installation was probably the biggest contributor to how the car ran (it would run right sometimes then rich or lean other times.) The wiring had no screening, a lot of places where insulation was melting through due to no heatsheilding near exhaust and then there were poor solder joints covered in insulation tape. So at the end of 08 I put a new computer in and redid the engine loom with a fresh flying loom and all new connectors/devices, LS1 coils, deleted distributor etc. I also got the dashboard recovered, played with some electronics and put in FD RX7 seats. http://forums.hybridz.org/index.php/topic/86016-vdo-tacho-original-type-face/page__p__815654#entry815654 http://forums.hybridz.org/index.php/topic/77957-rx7-fd-series-678-seats-installed-in-2nd-gen-s30/page__p__741304#entry741304 Ran much better with the new tune until end of 09 when I started playing with having the computer control the boost and this happened. Blown headgasket. Thought, no worries, will pull head off, take a look, replace gasket, button it all up and drive it while building a real engine for it. Was going to go all out with an L28et, larger cams, bigger turbo, head work, blah blah blah. Well when pulling it down I started to notice more and more things wrong with the engine as I went. Pistons seemed undersized in bore (bore still crosshatched but piston was wearing on skirt and piston was quite loose in bore). Little ends were really tight (rod would stand up all by itself), balancer was welded together (and welded 10 degrees off, no wonder power was down, was running 10deg less then I thought). Crank keyway/woodruff key was shot, bearings were shot blah blah blah. Cylinder 3 standing up So it was at this stage that my mates brother said “lets just chuck a RB26 in thereâ€. T which I replied, "No, I am feeling nostalgic about the L series engine, I might just build another" (had already started buying parts). He proceeded to give me a blank stare followed with, "Let me get this right, you are nostalgic about an engine that is no longer the original displacement (2.8 instead of 2.6), is now fuel injected (all s30 were carb) and is turbo charged (all s30 were NA)". So at the start of 2010 I bought this. Got the engine sitting on mounts around April, then work stopped as I had to build a shed before my wife had our first child. Around July car was brought back to my new shed where it sat and nothing really happened for the next 6 months (had a lot of money and time spent on the shed).

Forgot to put these photos up.

Cheers mate.

By folding it under, how are you going to keep the nice curve of the fold line? Only way I can think of having a section folded under is to cut little strips (like 1 inch sections), but if you do that it will not be a curve but a curve made of 1 inch sections. Is there a way to do it to keep the curve?

Woohoo, congratulations. Always a great sound hearing an engine fire up for the first time in years isn't it. Makes all the effort worthwhile.

Awesome. Great to see your still at it. I think my project is turning into along term saga too. Video instalment coming? Fingers are crossed.

Yes, lots of circles. My circles were about 5cm in diameter (yes the laser was not real straight). It only took a couple of goes to get it pointing straight at the diff. What I later realised though was that since I am standing my engine upright, the transmission output actually sits closer to the driver (passenger in australia). So when I was pointing the transmission at the diff, I was actually twisting the whole engine (I.E. the driveline was not parallel in both horizontal plains). This would not be too much of an issue as the angles were very small. Never the less, I am redoing my engine mounts to bring it all a bit straighter. To get it straight I am running some string lines the length of the car and taking several measurements off the engine/transmission. Tedious but should mean that I can get the the driveline quite straight. I agree with making all the mounts yourself, takes a bit more effort but is well worth it in the end. Being a 240z, your mount will be very easy to make. Mine being a 260z had the ear type mounts so I had to do this. http://forums.hybridz.org/index.php/topic/98380-transmission-mount-for-260z-rb26-300zx/

Mine was out too. What I did was rotate the transmission shaft a full rotation and draw out the circle.

Thanks mate

So how are the two manifolds joining before the turbo? Can't see where they join from the photo.

Am I looking at this correctly? Are you going to have 2 off GT35R turbos?

Cheers for getting back on the pump mounting, it is appreciated. Sounds like it is working well if you don't hear it at idle. My external walbro was like yours, quite loud at idle.

Is the pump sitting on the bottom of the sump and the springs holding it upright? Does this stop the fuel from entering the pump, or do they suck from the sides of the pump, through the bag? Do the springs offer any benefit over building the sump a little taller and bolting the pump to the sump? - Perhaps noise transmission from pump to tank to outside? or - Less vibration on the pump bearings?