z240

Switch on the way shortly. Glad to help. Jim

There is nothing wrong with what you are proposing. Just make clean connections, and waterproof as much as possible. Solder and heat shrink are considered requirements, nothing crimped if you can avoid it. Take your time, take pictures, work carefully. Jim

Just keep it simple. It really helps to print the diagram out and color the lines that you want to stare at. I've attached a revised version of your document with the lines in question in red with some arrows. See if that helps. Then use your multi-meter to check which link socket terminals are connected to the starter and/or alternator, with the links removed from their terminals. Make a drawing of how the fusible links are hooked up BEFORE you remove them just so you don't confuse them later. Good luck. Jim 75_schematic_diagram_withLines.pdf

Mota: have you found a switch yet? I have a couple, one with the wires still attached even! zing me a mail to z240@shaw.ca when you get a chance. Jim

John The strut insulators one the fronts are the same height for 240 and 280, its only the rears on 280 that are taller than 240. I have lots of 240 insulators in great shape. Contact me at z240@shaw.ca Jim

The "spacer" you are likely referring to underneath is a steering bearing that allows the strut to turn when you turn the wheel. These are available at any car parts store. If someone sends you a new strut insulator, it likely won't come with that. The rear insulators, which are the same as the front, have a rubber donut/bushing the same size as the bearing for the front. Either way, if you still want a strut insulator or the bearing I have both. Send me a mail to z240@shaw.ca Jim

I have a couple in good condition for $20 each (+ shipping). Please contact me at z240@shaw.ca and I'll send pictures this evening. Jim

Patrick Assuming you want the rear one, (taller than the front) I have a few of them in good condition. Asking $35 + shipping. Please contact at z240@shaw.ca and I'll send pictures this evening. If you need a front one, they are the same as 240. I have some of those as well. Thanks Jim

I have one if you still need it. $60 incl postal shipping from Western Canada. Drop me a e-mail to z240@shaw.ca and I'll send pics to be sure you get the right one. Jim

The assembly order is correct as shown, They are long enough, you may have to adjust the angles of the bar or the control arm, but trust me, it has been done many times, and we all have experienced the same issue. You may have to use a clamp to sweeze the parts a bit, but I found its mostly in the angle of bar to the control arm, when correct (more or less parallel) it will all work. Keep trying! Jim

And what exactly would you like us to find the time to measure? Jim

And another piece of advice. Don't fill the trans with the rear end on jack stands and the front wheels on the ground. For some dang reason about 15% of the 2 litres you're trying to put in refuses to stay there and ends up on the ground! Jim

Richard. I don't have the console vent trim panel and map light or a 75 drivers door regulator. I think I have the rest covered. Can you help Matt? Jim

Matt: I can supply you with pretty much everything. Need more description on the "driver side upper plastic thing" though. Drop me a note to z240@shaw.ca when you get a chance and we'll take it from there. Jim

Well the top line of every craig's list ad says "Beware of scams and fraud". Good time to apply that logic....

Well some good information was shared at least. I suspect it would be quite complex to analyze the relative movement with temperature of all of the involved parts to properly understand why hot is more than cold. It is not simple for sure. I was hoping for more geometric analysis and thermal expansion coefficients of various metals being thrown around. I think its cause the cam tower supports grow more 'cause they is aluminuminum, moving the cam up some. 'bout as technical as I can git this early....

You guys crack me up. Worrying about the tiniest of details of how to do it fast or slow, hot or cold and how other manufacturers do it and why. There is an even more important question people! What I want to know is why the cold clearance specs are SMALLER than the hot specs? Don't Metal parts expand when hot, reducing the clearance between adjacent parts, thus strongly suggesting the hot specs should be to SMALLER clearance? We'll also now sit back and hear from those that believe the cold spec is .010/.012 and the hot is .008/.010 Just thought I'de stir the pot today.

I have a set of B spacers for ya!. PM me or z240@shaw.ca Jim

Sorry, no easy way to fix this. Strut has to come out, spring compressor, remove insulator, and replace it. Not safe the way it is either if the nuts can't hold the strut in place. Jim

I just brought home what I believe is a complete set (no door panels though, everything else I think, have to confirm) from a parts car that just made its way to my house. I also have very very good door panels in black and great advice on using SEM vinyl dies to make them tan. Also send me an email, and I'll get you some pictures z240@shaw.ca and we'll discuss from there. Jim

PM sent Jim

Not sure why I haven't seen this before, kinda late. We already have a Calgary Z Club with lots of crazy z loving members such as myself your esteemed el presidente! We are here www.calgaryzclub.ca Drop me a note when you get a chance! z240 '@' shaw.ca Jim

I would also closely inspect the spindle itself. It may be worn. No bearing adjustment is going to solve that. Ever had the bearing sieze on that side? There are many other potential points for play than the wheel bearing, wiggle the wheel 12/6 AND 3/9 and see if there is a difference in how the play feels. Jim

This resistor is 2200 ohm resistor. Any 1/2 Watt resistor of this value can be used in its place. Just in case you can't find the stock part. Jim